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Old 12-07-2011, 08:24 PM   #151
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I'm going to buy a new 12th scale before Christmas but I'm trying to decide which one I want. There are only 2 I'm deciding over the Rev. 7 and the other is an American based car also. The last 12th car I raced was a Rev. 4.5 and I loved that car, fast with any setup and it could be driven hard.

I am wondering is the Rev. 7 the same way? How does the new inline setup work verus the old layout? What is the big diffrence with the new liner tweak spring setup? Can this car be driven very hard, I can't drive a car that has to be driven easy I have a tendancy to push things and I'm kinda edgy at times.

Thanks for any imput, I just want to buy a US made car.
All the things you mentioned (inline battery, linear side springs) as well as some things you didn't (wider front end, new soft standard setup) translate into a car that is not edgy and easy to drive. IMO that is a car that can be driven hard like you say you need
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Old 12-08-2011, 02:12 PM   #152
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Looks good, let us know how it goes! BTW the CEFX and AE foam bumpers fit the Rev.7 perfectly with the old skool front end and will save your chassis big time.
Peter

Thanks for the tip. Car went really well. I ran it as kit settings all day just to get the hang of the car. I just need to find a bit more initial steering so Im going to have a look at caster settings. Rear end was planted though so its got real potential.

Tim
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:25 PM   #153
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Hey guys I have a question.

I'm running 43mm front tyres and a 1.5mm ride height spacer gives me 3.8mm ride height. So my question is how are you making 3mm with small tyres? This is using the Old Skool front end.

Thanks
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:04 PM   #154
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Are you using the new machined old skool arms?
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:21 PM   #155
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Hey guys I have a question.

I'm running 43mm front tyres and a 1.5mm ride height spacer gives me 3.8mm ride height. So my question is how are you making 3mm with small tyres? This is using the Old Skool front end.

Thanks
Tim
With the machined old school front end it requires no shims, and I barely squeak 3mm. I think it was 39mm was the absolute smallest I could run.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:27 PM   #156
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The new machined front peices are super nice!
I run a rev 6 and I don't have to shim, I'm running 4mm in the front with 1.61 tires..
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:38 PM   #157
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Here is a latest configuration of my test car. Allows for quick change of the steering ink akerman, as well a a totally different weight bias. I have also gone to a receiver pack (for various reasons) but mainly to balance the car better, and keep the wiring cleaner...

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Old 12-12-2011, 01:58 PM   #158
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Here is a latest configuration of my test car. Allows for quick change of the steering ink akerman, as well a a totally different weight bias. I have also gone to a receiver pack (for various reasons) but mainly to balance the car better, and keep the wiring cleaner...

Looks amazing Peter

What's your setup?

Thanks
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:02 PM   #159
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Default question about photo

why so much coneage on the front tires?
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:22 PM   #160
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Neg 3 degrees camber
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:32 PM   #161
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Sucks for the pocketbook but oh so carvy in the corners lol
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:47 PM   #162
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Does that mean front ends will be available with different camber and caster settings?
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:48 PM   #163
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Neg 3 degrees camber

The servo change is thinking outside the box, any feedback on handling?

All the weight over the front wheels does that mean you changed shock weight to add rear grip as the steering would be very direct?
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:36 PM   #164
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Does that mean front ends will be available with different camber and caster settings?
Not to my knowledge... I just use thin strips on media wedged on either the inside or out side of the block to change camber. A strip of scotch tape is usually good for about 1 deg at the wheels.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:43 PM   #165
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The servo change is thinking outside the box, any feedback on handling?

All the weight over the front wheels does that mean you changed shock weight to add rear grip as the steering would be very direct?
No change in setup. The servo placement was to allow quick change between absolutely straight links and swept links like I normally run. The car was not as twitchy as I expected it to be, and that servo weighs almost nothing so the car wasn't affected too much by having weight in front of the front axles.

I have also started testing the Parma speed8 HD body. I seems to be a very nice alternative to the AMR and a much better choice than the sketchy Black art body...
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