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Old 10-17-2002, 11:59 PM   #91
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Thats right,
I forgot to mention the "RULES" part. I only use my hybrids for leisurely runs in the shopping centre car park.
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Old 10-18-2002, 11:50 PM   #92
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Default 55446

but then who's to say that a fantom armature hand wound is set for a certain can? how would anyone know but the person who wound the arm. and once the arm leaves the can, how can u tell?
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Old 10-19-2002, 09:07 AM   #93
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The fantom guys will wind a motor on a certain armature blank, they say if it is for a trinity or a yoke or a top can, and if you take a look at the different armatures they look different. They can always tech your motor if they want to.
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Old 11-18-2002, 02:18 AM   #94
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Default 10x2

Hey

i just got a new p-94 10x2 and i was wondering what gear ratio

u guys would recommend for a big track with fast corners.

Also what is the difference between the dual and single shunt

brushes that are supplied?

thanx
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Old 11-18-2002, 06:57 AM   #95
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What type of car are you going to put it in and is it carpet or asphalt.
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Old 11-18-2002, 10:45 AM   #96
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As a general rule, you should gear the car so that speed tops out just as you enter the turn at the end of the longest straight on the track and tune for infield performance from there. You should be able to judge that pretty quickly and make the necessary adjustment. Obviously, it's best to start with a higher gear ratio (smaller pinion) and increase one tooth at a time. The difference between single and dual shunt brushes are that you have two braid wires on the dual shunt brushes vs one braid wire on the single shunt brushes. Each braid wire is capable of carrying 10 amps of current, so, if your hoods are really dirty to the point where they have intermittent contact with the brushes, you are able to pull 20A through the dual shunt brushes vs 10A with a single shunt brush.
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Old 11-18-2002, 09:06 PM   #97
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Default re:

I intend running the motor in my X-ray T1 mainly on asphalt

or netball courts. Ive been told to use spurs (84 - 93t) & pinions

(21 - 26)
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Old 11-20-2002, 10:25 AM   #98
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-CriMinaL- |RC

Just a suggestion... If you want to ask gearing questions, you'll probably get better results if you speak in terms of gear ratio rather than pinion and spur gear numbers because each model of car has a different internal transmission ratio and everyone runs different spurgears. For example, the XXX-S has a 1.83:1 internal ratio where the TC3 has a 2.5:1 internal ratio. If you run 25T pinion and 100T spur on each car, you end up with 7.32:1 ratio on the XXX-S compared to 10:1 on the TC3. If you're running a 17T motor in each car, the XXX-S will spank the TC3 in a big way because the XXX-S is geared in the range for that motor. The way you calculate the final gear ratio is:

<spurgear teeth> / <piniongear teeth> X <internal ratio>

For example: 100/25=4 4X1.83=7.32 Since we started off with a ratio, we end up with 7.32:1 as the final gear ratio. That should help you compare gearing to other racer with different cars. I hope that helps.
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Old 12-04-2002, 11:34 PM   #99
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Default COMM COLOR QUESTION

Hello,
Asked these two questions in another post but thought I'd get some more opinions.

I have a 10x4 modified motor in my TA04 according to recommended rollout figures I have geared for the following FDR of 8.52:1 Does this sound like where I should be???

Second Question is I just took apart the 10x4 motor for cleaning and it was filthy, I mean really filthy. It even had a couple of small stones in the bottom of the can
Any way after cleaning it thoroughly I inspected the comm and there was no sigh of extraordinary wear but there was a light coloring where the brushes run against the comm which was a rainbow of a golden color along with a pale orangy color as well as a feint streak of blue here and there. Is this normal to have some feint coloring?? If not what should it look like??

Thanks
Steevo
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Old 12-04-2002, 11:54 PM   #100
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Hi Steevo,
It's hard to say. I run 11x2s and 10x2s at about that gearing too, but the tracks here in singapore are way small. I once went to a large track in Indonesia, the Jakarta International Twin Circuit. Was running my 9x2s at about 7.8:1, with some ppl gearing their 8x3s higher than my 9x2!

Does the motor reach maximum rpms at the end of the longest straight? That's one point to keep note off. Also, what about infield punch? Don't gear so high the car has no pickup. I would recommend you get someone to time your laps. I remembered in one particular race I geared down by 2 pinions, (3 actually) but the 2nd gearing down gave me the best lap time out of 3 heats. Naturally I took that gearing for my mains. Note that i don't recommend using your heats as a guide to gearing the car - i usually use the heats for car setup....

Finally, I found that the more timing you run on your motor, the lower you need to gear.

The comm sounds ok... did you get some oil of some kind on the comm? That's the same effect I get if some of the bearing oil drips on the comm.

~Alvin
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Old 12-05-2002, 12:00 AM   #101
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Thanks Alvin,
The straight is long and the motor definately winds right out by the end of it. I don't know about the oil but that is a possability. The motor has plenty of punch from a standing start and can usually break traction without too much effort.

Thanks
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Old 12-05-2002, 10:22 AM   #102
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If you have discoloration beyond a brassy color (like what you are describing,) you are overheating the comm. This can be from undergearing, overgearing or too little spring pressure. Obviously, it could be a combination as well. How did the brushes look? Were they discolored at all? You always gear for the track, never just pick some number and be married to it. Even two of the same cars with the same motor can gear differently. When you see those recommendations in the manual, those are starting points. I usually buy 3 or 4 pinions larger and smaller to ensure that I will be able to gear correctly. I hope that helps.
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Old 12-05-2002, 06:16 PM   #103
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Thanks psycho,
The brushes wern't too bad but they did have a goldish appearance towards the ends that contact the comm. the actual brush surface that comes in contact with the comm was pretty good to me and only showed a slight darkish silver color if you know what I mean. I will be pulling the motor apart again on Sunday so I might take some pictures and post them so that I may better illustrate what I am saying.

Thanks again
Steevo
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Old 12-06-2002, 07:35 AM   #104
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Default TO Rush 13x2 gearing

I'm running an Enduro this Sunday and would like to run my13x2

a) in my Pro 3
b) on asphalt
c) with 3000 UMH
d) must try and last 10 minutes or as close to
e) never run a mod before so I have no idea on gearing or timing for a 13x2
f) if its any indication rollout in stock is in the 33-36 range for our track (long straight and sweeper but technical infield as well)

Any tips on rollout?

and turning the endbell which way increases or decreases timing?

I'm guessing minimize the timing to save on run-time.

I feel like a newbie all over again

Cheers

Andy
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Old 12-06-2002, 12:32 PM   #105
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wrxmy - First off, I wouldn't have very high expectations of the performance of the rush motors, I've not heard great things about them in the past.

I think you should get 10 mins with 3000's, if you use a smooooooth driving style, and gear quite conservatively - not sure on rollouts (33-36 sounds like big track gearing), but try around 8:1 overall.

The motor is at it's most efficient usually with a little advance, maybe 6 to 12 degrees - the timing is advanced by turning anti-clockwise, as you look at the endbell.

NEVER retard the timing.
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