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Old 06-02-2002, 08:03 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
dw,
thank for the reply ....by the way does having a tight gear mesh make the motor burnt???i was just looking at my car and notice that the gear mesh seems tight...could it be??maybe the motor need to work harder to get it move as it's tight...am i correct??
hmm!!long way for me to go to learn all this rc stuffs ....seems to cant get anything right at the moment ....maybe i should go back to nitro
with a tight mesh, it actually created more drag , leading to overheating...
how was your playing at MS today//
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Old 06-02-2002, 08:26 AM   #47
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As jack said too tight a mesh will hurt efficiency and make a motor wear faster.
If you have too tight a mesh the car will emit a sort of whining sound. Unless you have the gear mesh really tight it doens't ake a lot of diffference though. Just make sure that there is a detectable amount of backlash between the pinion and spur. Rotate the gears and check the mesh in several places. The spur gears generally aren't quite round so the mesh will vary with position.
If in doubt set the mesh tighter rather than looser. It may make your car slightly less efficient but at least that way you keep all the teeth on the spur gear.

Belt tension is much more critical to efficiency than gear mesh. If in doubt pester the fast guys at the track.
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Old 06-02-2002, 09:58 AM   #48
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ok!i guess that was the prob with my motor...
jack, run @MS was so-so only with that kind of motor....maybe i'll go down again if u r there maybe u could help me in setting cars and stuffs...i'm a total newbie
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:02 AM   #49
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Geez Alvin what did you do??? That motor is junk! I'd seriously think about different gearing. At least give it a try, you can always change back. I like my car to start topping out about 3/4 or so down the longest straight, maybe a little longer. Also, make sure nothing's binding up at all. I just started racing Mod Sedan last winter, ran an Orion Chrome 11x2, was cutting the comm every 1-2 runs, cleaning brushes every run, and replacing brushes every 4-5 because I don't like brushes to get short - the spring gets softer, and as dw said that causes more arcing and a hotter motor.
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:07 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
ok!i guess that was the prob with my motor...
jack, run @MS was so-so only with that kind of motor....maybe i'll go down again if u r there maybe u could help me in setting cars and stuffs...i'm a total newbie
so so... why so so....
i was still using a 12 yr old 13 turn trinty monster horse power last week when i play there...( just retired it.... no more horse power )
You can always come down to join us at MS on sat morning ....
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:12 AM   #51
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JeffC: Seriously have no idea what went wrong...

Anyhow, funny thing is I know someone running an Orion Chrome, 11x3, he pit beside me and *ack* after the race I checked out his arm and dang it was still shiny!!!

I did a complete rebuild of my car about 3 days prior to race day, and I just checked to make sure, the drive train is pretty free...

I'm seriously considering getting an orion motor now...
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:16 AM   #52
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jack,
overheated 12x2 = 23t...hehehe that's why....i think my SP12G3 running 23t stock was way faster than my 1/10 when it ran just now
and also broke 2 rear arm when hit in the rear by a gas car.....heck!i was giving them way to overtake me by moving to the side and they were way behind me...maybe sun was so bright that they cant see well....once after the sweeper on the long straight(i was after the drain near the 4x4...isnt it more than enuff way for overtaking) and another was after the long straight in the sweeper(geesh!i was very near to the fencing)..if batts werent dumping i would not have given way....

Last edited by fReShJiVe; 06-02-2002 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:21 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
jack,
overheated 12x2 = 23t...hehehe that's why....i think my SP12G3 running 23t stock was way faster than my 1/10 when it ran just now
u got SP12.. that is good. some of the guys here have them as well......
12 turn at 8. 6 hmmm
maybe your brushs are too short...
One thing alot of us forgot is that after a while, the brushes become short and we still carry on runnin, this actually make the car run slower and hotter too...
what touring car are you running??
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Old 06-02-2002, 10:27 AM   #54
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i think that my brushes are short and also due to tight gear mesh bcoz it was running fine the last time i run with no changes in gearing........saturday mornings??i mught pop down someday but not next week...my kid's b-day...but most prob i'll be there on sunday
what car??hmmm mine a car from the LHS that everyone hates
SP12-what foams are they using??ordered mine but have yet to receive...hehe could u ask them for me where they get tires

Last edited by fReShJiVe; 06-02-2002 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 06-03-2002, 07:46 AM   #55
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Default Possible brush hood problem?

Guys,
Trued my comm today and fiddled with the motors. I noticed something - the brush has a lot of vertical and horizontal play whilst in the hood. Unlike say Tamiya motors which come with a spring tab the one I got doesn't.

And the play when compared to say my 23x2 or 14x2 is much more. Any thoughts?

Regards,
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Old 06-03-2002, 09:29 AM   #56
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What type of motor are you running?

If it is a p94 based motor then it needs bigger brushes than other types of motors.

Otherwise is the brush damper flattened / missing.
The brush damper is a small bent metal strip which sits at either the top or bottom of the brush hood and pushes the brush up or down.
If it is older than about five years then the motor probably won't have a brush damper.
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Old 06-03-2002, 09:32 AM   #57
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dw: It is a Kawada "V-modified" machine wound 13x2. oddly yes, the brush damper you describe IS missing. Do you think this could be the cause of all my woes?
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Old 06-03-2002, 04:58 PM   #58
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That's certainly possible, anything that lets the brushes move around in the hood may make it wear oddly & maybe bounce more....
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Old 06-04-2002, 05:45 AM   #59
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Not familiar with the kawada motors. If it is supposed to have a brush damper and doesn't that could explain the problem.... But being a machine wound motor it may be designed without to cut costs.
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Old 06-23-2002, 09:17 AM   #60
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hi i was reading this thread because i was going to be trying a 10 turn triple at my track, i saw your roll out chart said 23.88 for a 10 turn so where should i go from there for the triple wind a little lower then the recomended ratio? because alvin said a 10 quint should be geared more like a 9 single. thanks
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