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Old 08-23-2011, 12:20 PM   #16
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I am not running blinky mode here but do you think than an "old" Novak GTB would be as fast as the newer models around?
i think it would be good enough for most of average drivers. lrp tc spec would be a good option too
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Old 08-23-2011, 02:32 PM   #17
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I am not running blinky mode here but do you think than an "old" Novak GTB would be as fast as the newer models around?
i took third at snowbirds in oval sportsman truck with a 4 year old gtb. im not a full time oval guy, and i do not know much about oval setup, but i was not under powered.

yr4dude - what i mean by "feel" is the smoothness between the way the car acts, and the input you make at the transmitter. i would go into more detail, but i would get flamed on by the members currently in this thread.
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Old 08-23-2011, 02:42 PM   #18
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Yes in blinky mode the output is all the same.

But not all esc's can perform other modes or other features.
Randy whats the proper gearing for a RS in blinky mode.. I believe mine is geared at like 4.00 i am running an Xray t3 2010? thanks in advance
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:02 PM   #19
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Randy whats the proper gearing for a RS in blinky mode.. I believe mine is geared at like 4.00 i am running an Xray t3 2010? thanks in advance
Depends on the motor. Number of turns and brand.
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:04 PM   #20
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Depends on the motor. Number of turns and brand.
rs esc with a tekin 17.5 motor..
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:07 PM   #21
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I know in VTA (25.5) the gtb2 has much more speed, especially top end, than the older gtb.
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:15 PM   #22
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rs esc with a tekin 17.5 motor..
You could probably go lower than 4. It also depends on the size of your track.

Go by how hot the motor is after a race. If it isn't getting close to 175F, lower your FDR and/or add endbell timing little by little until the motor starts to push the temp limit.
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:21 PM   #23
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Randy whats the proper gearing for a RS in blinky mode.. I believe mine is geared at like 4.00 i am running an Xray t3 2010? thanks in advance
That depends on your track and your motor. I run on a very long and wide track with an Epic D3 17.5 with timing advanced to the maximum and the gearing on my XRay is 3.25. With that and the cool weather where the track is, my motor stays under 150deg F.
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:51 PM   #24
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That depends on your track and your motor. I run on a very long and wide track with an Epic D3 17.5 with timing advanced to the maximum and the gearing on my XRay is 3.25. With that and the cool weather where the track is, my motor stays under 150deg F.
we run at the same place so i will try that...
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:58 PM   #25
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we run at the same place so i will try that...
Dang! I shouldn't have given that away. I'll see you then in HB.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:56 PM   #26
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Would a better question be .....
Are all latest generation ROAR approved motors more or less equal in
blinky mode ??
Are they ?? Looking for a 13.5T for blinky racing.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:04 PM   #27
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Blinky mode in my humble personal opinion has opened the door to make the same mistakes that were made 8+ years ago with brushed stock racing. I'm not looking to fight over my opinion, it won't change.

That being said esc vs esc you're getting into "losses." Which esc has the lowest on resistance, who runs cooler to keep that resistance down,etc. So in theory the top level esc's "may" be worth some time, possibly.

Now motor vs. motor. This is going to be all about which one can get the most watts while still being efficient. Efficiency is really only an issue with 1s applications since the races are 8 minutes and every tenth of a volt can matter.

What I don't like seeing is guys overcharging lipos, charging lipos on nimh mode to bump the voltage and a few other unsafe practices I don't care to mention. All of which I witnessed at the Offroad Nats.

Blinky mode has opened the door up again to motor of the (insert time frame), and who can get the best batteries and charge them JUST under their failure limit...No thanks.

You guy can have it. I'll race mod.

If everyone was really worried about limiting a class someone should have introduced a rev limiter device as I suggested previously, or perhaps run the entire setup in dual mode aka sensorless. Sensorless eliminates the sensors and ANY motor timing period. It physically cannot be "boosted" or modified past a certain amount of timing, period. Problem with this I suppose is that not everyone else can do this....
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:09 PM   #28
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Very interesting point of view Randy
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:07 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Blinky mode in my humble personal opinion has opened the door to make the same mistakes that were made 8+ years ago with brushed stock racing. I'm not looking to fight over my opinion, it won't change.

That being said esc vs esc you're getting into "losses." Which esc has the lowest on resistance, who runs cooler to keep that resistance down,etc. So in theory the top level esc's "may" be worth some time, possibly.

Now motor vs. motor. This is going to be all about which one can get the most watts while still being efficient. Efficiency is really only an issue with 1s applications since the races are 8 minutes and every tenth of a volt can matter.

What I don't like seeing is guys overcharging lipos, charging lipos on nimh mode to bump the voltage and a few other unsafe practices I don't care to mention. All of which I witnessed at the Offroad Nats.

Blinky mode has opened the door up again to motor of the (insert time frame), and who can get the best batteries and charge them JUST under their failure limit...No thanks.

You guy can have it. I'll race mod.

If everyone was really worried about limiting a class someone should have introduced a rev limiter device as I suggested previously, or perhaps run the entire setup in dual mode aka sensorless. Sensorless eliminates the sensors and ANY motor timing period. It physically cannot be "boosted" or modified past a certain amount of timing, period. Problem with this I suppose is that not everyone else can do this....
Agreed on all points but the very last. There was nothing wrong with boost at all. Boost gave an individual the opportunity to tune the ESC to work with different motors. You could set up a car to be fast in the infield and on the straight, all with very reasonable motor temps.

Enter blinky, MASSIVE roll-outs, high temps, and invariably more wear on electronic components. Blinky is probably easier to understand for many, but after they realize how fast they're going through equipment, they'll be just as fed up as they were with boost.

I also don't really buy into the whole "closer racing" aspect of blinky. Are there any racers out there who went from 15th at their clubtrack, to 3rd because of blinky? If so, please share your experience. But from what I've seen, the only thing that has happened is an artificial impression that the racing is closer. Because you took HP away from the fast guys, and their times suffered, at some tracks the fast guys lost a lap. The guys who were ALL for blinky, didn't go ANY faster, but now there a lap down, rather than two. Is that really closer, or are we just handicapping the guys who know what they're doing? Yes, technically the racing is closer on the clock, but not because everyone was suddenly the same speed. Slowing the fast guys down doesn't actually make the slower guys faster........

So, now that blinky is upon us, what will the new "excuse/technological nightmare" be when the detractors don't win the A-main?
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:35 PM   #30
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So, now that blinky is upon us, what will the new "excuse/technological nightmare" be when the detractors don't win the A-main?
"I didn't have "X" battery" or "I didn't have "X" Motor." Sound familiar?

I agree with your view point on boost. It was an equalizer for a lot of people.

If everyone wanted it slower, choose a slower motor.
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