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Old 08-20-2011, 03:31 AM   #1
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Default Going in to 1/10 touring and need advice.

Alright, so I'm leaving 1/8-buggy and going into 1/10-touring instead (soon winter here and I'll only be able to race indoor). Most of the things is kinda hard to understand for a rookie and I can't seem to find any good guide. My budget is about $600ish, that have to include the kit, esc/motor and servo (is it possible to use my Futaba BLS352 from the 1/8-buggy?).

I don't mind shopping for used touring cars, I'm not that thrilled about building the kit... If you guys know any car in good shape, just link it and I'll take a look.

Ok so let's start by looking at kits, I think the $450ish (T3, S411, TC6 etc) is abit overkill for a beginner. I've instead looked at this kit and would like to know your opinions about it (assembled and looks like a great bang for the buck): http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Car-Assembled

ESC/motor: No clue at all. In my 1/8-buggy I used MMP/CC 2200kv and really liked it. Lots of power and easy to use. What does all the different T mean? 21.5t, 5T etc? Is this kit any good? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1406-6900kV

Servo, it would be nice if I could use my Futaba BLS352 but I assume that I can only use "low profile" servos in a 1/10 touring car? This looks good: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1406-6900kV

Body? Doesent feel like it matters that much? I'll probably just take the car I think looks the best...

Would appreciate your help as I am really lost! :=) Btw I don't plan on doing any competitions, just racing at my local track for the fun of it.
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Old 08-20-2011, 06:04 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Joakim651 View Post
Alright, so I'm leaving 1/8-buggy and going into 1/10-touring instead (soon winter here and I'll only be able to race indoor). Most of the things is kinda hard to understand for a rookie and I can't seem to find any good guide. My budget is about $600ish, that have to include the kit, esc/motor and servo (is it possible to use my Futaba BLS352 from the 1/8-buggy?).

I don't mind shopping for used touring cars, I'm not that thrilled about building the kit... If you guys know any car in good shape, just link it and I'll take a look.

Ok so let's start by looking at kits, I think the $450ish (T3, S411, TC6 etc) is abit overkill for a beginner. I've instead looked at this kit and would like to know your opinions about it (assembled and looks like a great bang for the buck): http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Car-Assembled

ESC/motor: No clue at all. In my 1/8-buggy I used MMP/CC 2200kv and really liked it. Lots of power and easy to use. What does all the different T mean? 21.5t, 5T etc? Is this kit any good? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1406-6900kV

Servo, it would be nice if I could use my Futaba BLS352 but I assume that I can only use "low profile" servos in a 1/10 touring car? This looks good: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1406-6900kV

Body? Doesent feel like it matters that much? I'll probably just take the car I think looks the best...

Would appreciate your help as I am really lost! :=) Btw I don't plan on doing any competitions, just racing at my local track for the fun of it.
what class are you going to run at your lhs? that will determine what turn motor to get and speed control. no need to get a programmable esc when your going to run no ramping in the esc. check with the local racers to see what they have for sale and what they are running. trying and get something that you can get help with, also keep in mind part support for what you are running. body will also determine on what class you will run at the lhs. before you do anything go talk to the local racers, i am pretty sure they will help out.
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:44 AM   #3
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A big thing to keep in mind is immediate parts availability (unless you plan on stocking up), tuning support, and general help for you particular car.
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:02 AM   #4
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Tamiya ta06 is a perfect car to start with, nicely priced, got everything you need to go fast on the track from the beginning (only minor upgrades needed as roil bars etc) + spare parts are dirt cheap

as for esc/motor i like hobbywing, hard to beat their price and the performance you get
look at the Xerun 120a and motor

you can use a standard size servo in touring as well, no problems

recommended body would be a Protoform mazda speed 6
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:53 AM   #5
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You can use your full size servo for now. You might just need to hang your battery off the side of the car a little to get it balanced. That's no big deal.

Speed passions makes a esc and motor package called the cirtix club combo. It's perfect for non-boosted racing and is really cheap at 89$ there is a thread in the on-road forum that you can research it before you buy it.

Mazda speed6 seams to be the most comin body. There is a difference from a Mazda 6 and a Mazda speed6. I have always ran the Mazda speed6 body. There are also good threads in the on-road forum that explain body mounting.

For your first car I would look around and see what parts are more available. You should be able to find a used TC5 for next to nothing and just buy your self a few spare parts unless your lhs stocks those parts.

Before you buy a car look at the price of parts. In my opinion as a beginner I would stay away from Xray. They are a really good car but the price of parts is over kill... And you will crash and break parts.
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Old 08-20-2011, 11:47 PM   #6
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"Going into 1/10 touring and need advice"

Make sure you have a well paying job

As mentioned before, stop by your local track and see what's the popular chassis are and it's pretty much guaranteed someone will have a good used chassis to sell for dirt cheap. It's always a bonus to run a popular chassis as setup advice and spare parts are readily available

Good luck and have fun with on-road, it's a blast. I haven't touched my off-road buggy since I started racing on-road last year

FYI: If you have local parts support for Schumacher than the Mi1 might be a chassis to look into. Very good intermediate racing chassis for about $200
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:06 AM   #7
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I suggest you bank roll 1,000 bucks... keep saving. I have always said "buy the best and only purchase once. I can't agree more with the whole parts availibility thing though. With a budget of 600 you would be more in the Tamiya Mini Range.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:01 AM   #8
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no need to roll up $1000... for example:

Tamiya ta06 (in my opinion better than a old mi1 car, ta06 has modern race proven components out of the box and tamiya parts are availible from all good hk shops, to a low cost, the car is more capable on the track)

car: ~220dollar

servo: use your current futaba servo

motor esc: 180-220dollar Hobbywing xerun 120a (same as speed passion gt pro esc) with motor and program box (dont know what class you will run in, the 8.5t combo is just a example)

Body and tires is a part that you can buy locally as bodies are expensive to ship, one set of each is about 100dollar total

Batteries: i have used hobbykings with great success for some years now.
2of these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ar_Lipoly.html

This charger: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cessories.html
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total cost: 600-650dollar
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Old 08-21-2011, 04:11 AM   #9
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I don't think you can get a TA06 (Pro I assume) for $220 shipped online. I was shopping for one earlier and the cheapest I could find ~$260 shipped from RCModel Hong Kong. Local (I assume you're from the US?) prices for the kit alone averages around ~$260/$270 without post.

They somehow cancelled my order due to shortage of kits available now so I picked up a used Exotek TOP Photon on RCTech with a bunch of spares for $250.

Tamiya TA series cars are good for beginners, even the TA05 is still competitive. But unless you find a cheap one with options in it, it might cost a bit in the long run in adding the parts you want/need if you buy new.

If you don't mind used then I'd recommend getting a second hand race platform car for around $250 on RCTech, many of them sell with spares as well. Which to get will be up to you as mentioned if you care about parts availability at all (I don't, LHS sells Xray mostly, many will say they don't break but what about maintenance parts? Worn but not broken parts. Parts are too expensive for me. Anyways.) The possibly good thing about this route is you'll be set with a race level car and need little if any option parts as many come loaded stock/added by the owner.

Now say you got $350 left to spend on ESC and motor, the Hobbywing XERun 120A is good for its money (~$120 + post/free from eBay but beware of fake sellers, check Main HW thread here for genuine sellers), capable of boost/turbo or blinky (no boost/turbo) mode and also get the programming box (~$20-30?) no need for a laptop for field programming.

If your track runs blinky classes (17.5T mostly) then pair it with a speed passion V3 17.5 (~$75 for any motor nowadays) or whatever people may recommend. Blinky mode classes are easier to begin with not having to worry about speed control settings for boost/turbo, pretty much just gear the car right. The reason I recommend the XERun is because later on if you happen to be interested in running turbo classes (13.5) the ESC is capable of doing so. They don't cost that much over the Justock series. Speed Passion ESCs are very similar IMO as they are OEM by Hobbywing for a little higher price. Don't forget to get a fan for the motor (Yeah Racing Tornado rec'd from RCMart/ebay etc).

Now you have around $100 or less left to spend on parts/tires/body/batteries whatever. If you don't run 7.4v/2S batteries from your buggies then GEN Ace 5000 40c batteries have very good reviews for ~35 a pack, buy 2 free shipping from hobbypartz.com

Hobbywing thread http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-software.html

Just checked Hobbypartz.com HW120 ESC is on sale for $88.

Hope this helps.

**Just noticed you won't race. Well I guess the above is still applicable as you might still want to check out what kind of power / class other people are running at your track so you can keep up even when driving for fun.

Last edited by rc_square24; 08-21-2011 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:03 AM   #10
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And once again, too many people who want to scare new drivers away based on their own rediculous expenditures. $1000 bucks !!! Are you out of your freakin mind !!
The first thing has already been mentioned.
1. Base your initial list of needs on what class you'll be running the car in. It's as simple as that. You wouldn't need a shiny new top of the line racer to be competitive in Vintage Trans Am for instance. Sooo....figure out what class you'll be racing.

2. Decide whether you REALLY need new gear or are you savvy enough to buy good used gear. I've been racing for 12 years. For the last 5+ I haven't bought one new car. Way to many good cars out there for a helluva lot less than new and the technology just hasn't seen huge jumps to validate the higher cost for a new one.

3. STOP LISTENING TO ALL THESE PEOPLE WHO SAY YOU CAN'T BE COMPETITIVE WITHOUT SPENDING A THOUSAND DOLLARS !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just because some driver got suckered into buying a top of the line car, the best servo, the hottest motor and esc of the moment, pit gear that would embarass an F1 team, and assorted other nonsense....does not mean you'll be any faster or make you a better driver. It usually means you'll get frustrated and angry alot faster than the guy who spent 300 and spent more time learning to drive and maintaining his car than worrying about how cool he looks in last place with his shiny new X Ray.

4. See what others in your area are using for gear in the class you've chosen. Buying by mail order is completely normal these day's so don't go nuts worrying about what the local shop carries. Sometimes that can be your worst nightmare. But if local guy's are having good experience with this esc or that motor....then at least consider them and then shop for the best price from a reputable shop. Plenty of good suggestions here on the forum for that.

5. Above all else. HAVE FUN !!! When picking a class....be realistic. If you have little on road experience there's no sense getting into the fastest class available. Just like buying pricey gear...getting into a class over your head will get you frustrated and angry. There's much to learn and the learning CAN be fun but it's pure misery if you're just sliding around the track uncontrolled and have NO CLUE as to why nor do you know what adjustments might fix the problem.

Sorry if this was a bit strong but after running a club for all these years I've heard and seen what drivers like you go through and it pains me when people throw numbers out there that have no real basis in fact.
Look at this way...In real car racing they say that speed costs money. They're right to some extent but remember that those people already learned the basics so that the money they spend now isn't wasted or misused.
You're in the same situation. First spend what you need to learn....then spend to help you go faster.
BTW...a little confused. You say you're not competing but you say you'll be RACING at your local track. Clue us in so we better understand. If you'll be racing in a specified class then we can make better suggestions. If you'll simply be using the local track to practice on then that's a whole different situation.

Last edited by Evoracer; 08-21-2011 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 08-21-2011, 08:48 AM   #11
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^^

And people wonder why on-road is dying... $1k to start
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:10 AM   #12
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^^

And people wonder why on-road is dying... $1k to start
Isn't that the truth !! When I first started My wife and I bought a TL01 that the local shop owner built and made into a RTR package. I remember it was right around $225. We both raced it for a year and we learned a bunch. Then I realized that It would cost more money than it was worth to upgrade that car to match my progressing skills so I got the Schumacher Mission. Man, the learning curve took a huge jump and I really started understanding and learning about setup and mechanicals. Lord knows i'd never call myself a constant A Main driver but i sure know a bunch more about the cars and what it takes to keep one in great condition.
Sometimes I think I have more fun working on them than I do racing.
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:13 AM   #13
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Haha good ol' TL01, also my first car for 2 years on a single 6cell nicad mechanical speedy (!) before jumping to the HPI Pro 2 which really loved
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:15 AM   #14
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^^

And people wonder why on-road is dying... $1k to start
Funny, here on road is booming...

Well everything has been said really, be careful with Schum, I raced their cars for years and they have a tendency to always come up with new parts/upgrade that you might feel you need to go faster, the very opposite to Associated really...their cars are good from the start, nothing major to improve the kits, the second hand is a good way to go, XRay is expensive for parts, I would not race Tamiya personnaly (some of their models are very good, don't get me wrong, but expensive parts again) and competition models are expensive from the start.

Keep in mind that you will use more tyres than buggy, check what the guys are using in your club so you do not buy wheels for fun.

Your servo will be fine, maybe a little slow but brushless and metal gears, so this is good.

Bodyshell is important so take a good one, most are around the same price anyway, I have bought bodyshells before as a pack (3) which was really cost effective, you will trash one or two fairly quickly (it does not take much really)

Lipo packs are plentiful and 40/50C are good and cheaper with new higher ratings around now, you will need only two packs to start anyway.

Get a good charger that have a balancing system integrated, it is important to buy a good charger to charge properly your packs, lots around stops at 5Amps, this is fine but if you can get more (lets say 10Amps) you won't have to update later on. If your club as power, you might need a power supply if you charger is not AC and runs on 12Volts. Some charger works on both.

Speedo, well has mentionned Xerun is good, I just bought a second hand one in very good quality for 1/2 price, motor will depend on your club, so check first.

Enjoy your new toy !!
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:19 AM   #15
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Tamiya parts expensive? if you buy them from hongkong they are among the cheapest spares you can find! havent found a car that has cheaper spare part prices yet. might be associated in usa, but they get expensive when shipping and custom fees are applied.
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