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Old 08-21-2011, 12:25 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
Tamiya parts expensive? if you buy them from hongkong they are among the cheapest spares you can find! havent found a car that has cheaper spare part prices yet. might be associated in usa, but they get expensive when shipping and custom fees are applied.
Are you not paying for shipping and custom from HK??

TRF417 parts are more expensive than Asso, of course some model parts are cheaper from Tamiya, they cover such a huge spectrum, but for 1/10th comp TC they are not the cheapest overall.

and Joakim is in the states.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:00 PM   #17
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Go to the track you plan to race at or go to the track forum. See if anyone has a car for sale. The carpet season is starting soon and most buy new cars. So you should not have a problem finding one. As for you servo. You should be able to use the one you have. Buy a motor from someone that you will be racing with. I would put your money on the Tekin RS speedo. It is the fastest speedo out, from what I see at the track I race at.
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:51 PM   #18
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I've been pushing World GT at my club. So much cheaper than TC and the handling is just insane. Got my Gen X 10 LE for $220, sweet. TC is awesome but there are not enough "intermediate" chassis available. There's a big gap in the market from a RTR to "Pro" TC chassis, that needs to be filled.

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........Tamiya TA06...in my opinion better than a old mi1 car......
Schumacher re-released the Mi1 as an intermediate car for a great price. More companies need to follow their lead Two cars, approximately the same price point, I know which one I would buy
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:35 AM   #19
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Better set aside some money for LIPO's as well, you can only run 2s in touring car, not the 4s+ that you would have been using the the buggy.
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:42 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
And once again, too many people who want to scare new drivers away based on their own rediculous expenditures. $1000 bucks !!! Are you out of your freakin mind !!
The first thing has already been mentioned.
1. Base your initial list of needs on what class you'll be running the car in. It's as simple as that. You wouldn't need a shiny new top of the line racer to be competitive in Vintage Trans Am for instance. Sooo....figure out what class you'll be racing.

2. Decide whether you REALLY need new gear or are you savvy enough to buy good used gear. I've been racing for 12 years. For the last 5+ I haven't bought one new car. Way to many good cars out there for a helluva lot less than new and the technology just hasn't seen huge jumps to validate the higher cost for a new one.

3. STOP LISTENING TO ALL THESE PEOPLE WHO SAY YOU CAN'T BE COMPETITIVE WITHOUT SPENDING A THOUSAND DOLLARS !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just because some driver got suckered into buying a top of the line car, the best servo, the hottest motor and esc of the moment, pit gear that would embarass an F1 team, and assorted other nonsense....does not mean you'll be any faster or make you a better driver. It usually means you'll get frustrated and angry alot faster than the guy who spent 300 and spent more time learning to drive and maintaining his car than worrying about how cool he looks in last place with his shiny new X Ray.

4. See what others in your area are using for gear in the class you've chosen. Buying by mail order is completely normal these day's so don't go nuts worrying about what the local shop carries. Sometimes that can be your worst nightmare. But if local guy's are having good experience with this esc or that motor....then at least consider them and then shop for the best price from a reputable shop. Plenty of good suggestions here on the forum for that.

5. Above all else. HAVE FUN !!! When picking a class....be realistic. If you have little on road experience there's no sense getting into the fastest class available. Just like buying pricey gear...getting into a class over your head will get you frustrated and angry. There's much to learn and the learning CAN be fun but it's pure misery if you're just sliding around the track uncontrolled and have NO CLUE as to why nor do you know what adjustments might fix the problem.

Sorry if this was a bit strong but after running a club for all these years I've heard and seen what drivers like you go through and it pains me when people throw numbers out there that have no real basis in fact.
Look at this way...In real car racing they say that speed costs money. They're right to some extent but remember that those people already learned the basics so that the money they spend now isn't wasted or misused.
You're in the same situation. First spend what you need to learn....then spend to help you go faster.
BTW...a little confused. You say you're not competing but you say you'll be RACING at your local track. Clue us in so we better understand. If you'll be racing in a specified class then we can make better suggestions. If you'll simply be using the local track to practice on then that's a whole different situation.
+1 Good advice.
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:56 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
And once again, too many people who want to scare new drivers away based on their own rediculous expenditures. $1000 bucks !!! Are you out of your freakin mind !!
The first thing has already been mentioned.
1. Base your initial list of needs on what class you'll be running the car in. It's as simple as that. You wouldn't need a shiny new top of the line racer to be competitive in Vintage Trans Am for instance. Sooo....figure out what class you'll be racing.

2. Decide whether you REALLY need new gear or are you savvy enough to buy good used gear. I've been racing for 12 years. For the last 5+ I haven't bought one new car. Way to many good cars out there for a helluva lot less than new and the technology just hasn't seen huge jumps to validate the higher cost for a new one.

3. STOP LISTENING TO ALL THESE PEOPLE WHO SAY YOU CAN'T BE COMPETITIVE WITHOUT SPENDING A THOUSAND DOLLARS !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just because some driver got suckered into buying a top of the line car, the best servo, the hottest motor and esc of the moment, pit gear that would embarass an F1 team, and assorted other nonsense....does not mean you'll be any faster or make you a better driver. It usually means you'll get frustrated and angry alot faster than the guy who spent 300 and spent more time learning to drive and maintaining his car than worrying about how cool he looks in last place with his shiny new X Ray.

4. See what others in your area are using for gear in the class you've chosen. Buying by mail order is completely normal these day's so don't go nuts worrying about what the local shop carries. Sometimes that can be your worst nightmare. But if local guy's are having good experience with this esc or that motor....then at least consider them and then shop for the best price from a reputable shop. Plenty of good suggestions here on the forum for that.

5. Above all else. HAVE FUN !!! When picking a class....be realistic. If you have little on road experience there's no sense getting into the fastest class available. Just like buying pricey gear...getting into a class over your head will get you frustrated and angry. There's much to learn and the learning CAN be fun but it's pure misery if you're just sliding around the track uncontrolled and have NO CLUE as to why nor do you know what adjustments might fix the problem.

Sorry if this was a bit strong but after running a club for all these years I've heard and seen what drivers like you go through and it pains me when people throw numbers out there that have no real basis in fact.
Look at this way...In real car racing they say that speed costs money. They're right to some extent but remember that those people already learned the basics so that the money they spend now isn't wasted or misused.
You're in the same situation. First spend what you need to learn....then spend to help you go faster.
BTW...a little confused. You say you're not competing but you say you'll be RACING at your local track. Clue us in so we better understand. If you'll be racing in a specified class then we can make better suggestions. If you'll simply be using the local track to practice on then that's a whole different situation.
+2, Very good advice, you don't need the latest and greatest to learn, race and have fun. As others have suggested go take a look where you want to race and ask folk what they suggest for you to get started there, usually people are very happy to give good advice at clubs.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:42 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
And once again, too many people who want to scare new drivers away based on their own rediculous expenditures. $1000 bucks !!! Are you out of your freakin mind !!
The first thing has already been mentioned.
1. Base your initial list of needs on what class you'll be running the car in. It's as simple as that. You wouldn't need a shiny new top of the line racer to be competitive in Vintage Trans Am for instance. Sooo....figure out what class you'll be racing.

2. Decide whether you REALLY need new gear or are you savvy enough to buy good used gear. I've been racing for 12 years. For the last 5+ I haven't bought one new car. Way to many good cars out there for a helluva lot less than new and the technology just hasn't seen huge jumps to validate the higher cost for a new one.

3. STOP LISTENING TO ALL THESE PEOPLE WHO SAY YOU CAN'T BE COMPETITIVE WITHOUT SPENDING A THOUSAND DOLLARS !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just because some driver got suckered into buying a top of the line car, the best servo, the hottest motor and esc of the moment, pit gear that would embarass an F1 team, and assorted other nonsense....does not mean you'll be any faster or make you a better driver. It usually means you'll get frustrated and angry alot faster than the guy who spent 300 and spent more time learning to drive and maintaining his car than worrying about how cool he looks in last place with his shiny new X Ray.

4. See what others in your area are using for gear in the class you've chosen. Buying by mail order is completely normal these day's so don't go nuts worrying about what the local shop carries. Sometimes that can be your worst nightmare. But if local guy's are having good experience with this esc or that motor....then at least consider them and then shop for the best price from a reputable shop. Plenty of good suggestions here on the forum for that.

5. Above all else. HAVE FUN !!! When picking a class....be realistic. If you have little on road experience there's no sense getting into the fastest class available. Just like buying pricey gear...getting into a class over your head will get you frustrated and angry. There's much to learn and the learning CAN be fun but it's pure misery if you're just sliding around the track uncontrolled and have NO CLUE as to why nor do you know what adjustments might fix the problem.

Sorry if this was a bit strong but after running a club for all these years I've heard and seen what drivers like you go through and it pains me when people throw numbers out there that have no real basis in fact.
Look at this way...In real car racing they say that speed costs money. They're right to some extent but remember that those people already learned the basics so that the money they spend now isn't wasted or misused.
You're in the same situation. First spend what you need to learn....then spend to help you go faster.
BTW...a little confused. You say you're not competing but you say you'll be RACING at your local track. Clue us in so we better understand. If you'll be racing in a specified class then we can make better suggestions. If you'll simply be using the local track to practice on then that's a whole different situation.
+3 on the advice above.

went to the similar ordeal with thread starter. been having a blast with 10th scale EP ever since.
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