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Old 08-14-2011, 01:17 PM   #1
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Default Cause of black can failure

Hey guys I was racing this weekend and in the final race my black can blew....now I know black cans are notorious for blowing but when I took the motor out this t shaped stone fell out and the top of the t shaped stone was curved in now was this a over heating problem or did it just bust ?
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Old 08-14-2011, 02:50 PM   #2
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Sounds like a broken brush.
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Old 08-14-2011, 03:16 PM   #3
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I thought that is just what they tend to do after a few races. I guess some guys can make them last for a while.

Bushings on any moving parts of a "hobby grade" vehicle just doesn't seem right to me. It seems like the company is saying here is a disposable part we will perpetually sell you replacements for. If my dislike of business practices such as this comes across as simply bashing, then I need to work on my communication skills more and I apologize.
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Last edited by locked; 08-15-2011 at 09:04 AM. Reason: Attempt at humor failure
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Old 08-14-2011, 03:33 PM   #4
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Hey guys I was racing this weekend and in the final race my black can blew....now I know black cans are notorious for blowing but when I took the motor out this t shaped stone fell out and the top of the t shaped stone was curved in now was this a over heating problem or did it just bust ?
Of all the Black Can motors that I have ran the only time that a brush (broke off) was when I overheated the thing. Racing Black Cans for a few years in TCS I've learned a couple things....

1) Black Can's hate the heat. Common practice for me was running the Much More motor Cooler (Peltier Cooler) on the motor for several minutes before a race - as well as having a good High Volume fan running on the motor during the race.

2) Over the years I have experimented with different break-ins and I've come to the conclusion that if you want your Black Can (Sport Tune) motor to last, don't bother with the break in. Just run it out of the box. Run some quality bushing lube and you'll be set. Keep the temps down and you can have a motor that lasts many-many runs. Fact is I have one Black-Can that I have ran for two TCS seasons and it still ran very strong when I sold it with my TA05 last year.

If you are looking for a top-performing Black-Can, be prepared to replace it after 3-4 runs. I've found that unlike Silver-can motors, Black-Can motors have a very small sweet spot for top performance. Water dipping and other "voodoo" do work on these motor's - however, the more you try to squeeze out of a Black-Can motor, the shorter the life-span.
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Old 08-14-2011, 03:35 PM   #5
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black can failure due to being a black can.
WOW - and the Tamiya Bashing continues huh!

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Old 08-14-2011, 04:29 PM   #6
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Ok thanks guys now what exactly am I lubing up ....do I put oil on either end where the white bushings is and the bar that spins is at
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Old 08-14-2011, 04:40 PM   #7
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Anybody ever tried zmaxx oil on their com ???? That oil works ! No overheating, and no oil burning either since it is made for internal combustion engines !!!! I ran it on a lipo powered tc4 with a Co27 at 6.0fdr(very high), no fan,and the temps never went past 150F after ten minutes running on a decent sized track !!!! The comm/brushes also looked good afterwards !
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Old 08-14-2011, 04:53 PM   #8
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Ok thanks guys now what exactly am I lubing up ....do I put oil on either end where the white bushings is and the bar that spins is at
Yes - you put oil on where the brass bushings are on either end of the motor. For the com, there are comm drops out there but if you are looking at get better lifespan out of the motor, just keep the motor clean.

My typical maintenance of a Black Can was the following;

1) Pull the motor out of the car.
2) Using a high-quality q-tip (the cheaper ones fray too much and leave strands of material everywhere). I would spray the end of the Q-tip with motor cleaner and use that to wipe-down the comm. If it was excessively dirty (i.e. carbon deposits from the brushes) I would use a comm pen to clean the comm. Since most comm cleaning items are discontinued, you can also use a soft eraser cut thin enough to get through the motor slot to clean the comm.
3) Using motor cleaner (electrical contact cleaner) I would spray out the motor - a clean motor always runs faster.
4) Re-lube the bushings using Royal Oil or lately I've been using thin synthetic oil. I've read that you can use the stuff that they sell at skate shops - I think it's called Oust.
5) reinstall and hook-up the Much More motor cooler until my next heat.
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:31 PM   #9
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ok thanks ....i would like to learn more about the motors and what each part is .....is there a site that maybe shows u a motor dissected and with each parts name so i can learn ?
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