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Old 11-02-2008, 08:40 PM   #16
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but does it fit the tc4?
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Old 11-02-2008, 08:50 PM   #17
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Yea it should.
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Old 11-02-2008, 08:51 PM   #18
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well, since its used, how much plus the shipping?
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Old 11-20-2008, 05:33 AM   #19
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Default shaft oneway

yes it does fit......the bearing slides on to the replacement rear pinion shaft.
watch the gear mesh, this took me awhile to get perfect, the drive cup is not held with a screw as is the stock cup. I found the drive line end-play a little tight and just cut a slice of fuel tubing to replace the stock o-rings.......
the ballast in the corners brings it UP to legal weight! Thank Lipo for that!TC3 TC4 Center One Way-drillit-tc4-screamin-eagle-lipo-brushless-007.jpg

TC3 TC4 Center One Way-drillit-tc4-screamin-eagle-lipo-brushless-005.jpg

TC3 TC4 Center One Way-drillit-tc4-screamin-eagle-lipo-brushless-001.jpg
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Old 11-20-2008, 07:37 AM   #20
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This GPM center one way looks nice. The description on the http://www.hobbyetc.com/ is dead on for what is mentioned here. The front and rear diffs stay in place, but the shaft freewheels when not under power allowing to fronts to still use the diff and rotate at whatever speed they need to without locking their rotation together. To put a front one way in with this center bearing one way would be overkill.
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Old 11-20-2008, 08:22 AM   #21
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Megatech used to make one of these also, just in a purple instead of blue anodizing! The one thing that got me about both of these units the Megatech and this GPM one is that they are mounted at the rear of the drive shaft, in front of the spur gear. It would seem to me that logically they should be mounted at the front, just because now the whole main drive shaft has to freewheel as well as the diff. if it was mounted at the front, only the input shaft and diff would need to freewheel. Maybe it has something to do with the exposed side of the oneway would need to be on the outside where it is press fit into the cup possibly causing damage by pressing it into the cup, that was the only reason I could think of. If that was or isn't the reason they should mount it on the front layshaft so that there would be less rotational mass to freewheel allowing the diff to freewheel more freely for longer. Either way it does work and serves its purpose, just could never understand why they mounted it at the rear so the whole main driveshaft has to freewheel with the layshaft and Diff, just more to rotate for no real apparant reason!
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Old 11-20-2008, 08:39 AM   #22
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Scratch what I said about the GPM, from the GPM pic it does appear to be mounted on the front layshaft!

Drillit's has his on the rear also though, thought he had the GPM one but the link to the GPM one has a pic that shows the shorter front input shaft.
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Old 11-20-2008, 09:12 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WailinOnYa View Post
Scratch what I said about the GPM, from the GPM pic it does appear to be mounted on the front layshaft!

Drillit's has his on the rear also though, thought he had the GPM one but the link to the GPM one has a pic that shows the shorter front input shaft.
From the part picture HERE, it looks like the shorter front input shaft comes with the bearing, so the shaft will not spin with the front diff when the front needs to free wheel. The shaft will continue to spin with the spur only.
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Old 11-20-2008, 09:31 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
From the part picture HERE, it looks like the shorter front input shaft comes with the bearing, so the shaft will not spin with the front diff when the front needs to free wheel. The shaft will continue to spin with the spur only.
And THIS picture shows both the front and rear versions. It appears one is for the Nitro car and goes on the front, the other looks like its for the electric car and goes on the back (longer shaft). I think either would work though.
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Old 11-20-2008, 09:59 AM   #25
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The one that mounts on the front layshaft would be the way to go in my opinion! The one that mounts at the rear will have to freewheel the main drive shaft as well, where as the front mounted one won't. Maybe it wouldn't have any real difference, but it would be eliminating one more thing that would need to rotate with the rest of the front drivetrain. There must be a reason why both are made or why one is specified for gas or electric. Just seems the front mounted one would be the way to go. Maybe someone on here knows something about this that I don't?
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Old 11-20-2008, 10:13 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WailinOnYa View Post
The one that mounts on the front layshaft would be the way to go in my opinion! The one that mounts at the rear will have to freewheel the main drive shaft as well, where as the front mounted one won't. Maybe it wouldn't have any real difference, but it would be eliminating one more thing that would need to rotate with the rest of the front drivetrain. There must be a reason why both are made or why one is specified for gas or electric. Just seems the front mounted one would be the way to go. Maybe someone on here knows something about this that I don't?
I ordered the shorter one to try it. I'll know early next week.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:43 PM   #27
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I used a center one-way on my TC3 in oval racing and gave me 1/2 lap extra. It allowed the front diff to still maintain on-power steering without causing a scrub that a one-way up front would. Under power a front one-way would act like a spool and I would loose speed. My front diff was very very free, just like my rear diff. In oval racing the diff can mean several laps.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailranger View Post
I used a center one-way on my TC3 in oval racing and gave me 1/2 lap extra. It allowed the front diff to still maintain on-power steering without causing a scrub that a one-way up front would. Under power a front one-way would act like a spool and I would loose speed. My front diff was very very free, just like my rear diff. In oval racing the diff can mean several laps.
Did you have to use the aluminum center shaft or will the carbon one hold up fine?
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