6376vette

I have had both. to me the xi feels smoother and more predictable but my lap times were the same or at least too close to tell a difference. honestly if I were you I would keep your zero and pick up an xi for a second class. I wouldn't sell one to get the other. I also want to add that I have the first version of the xi. I have no experience with the dh version other than the top deck has a lot of flex and feels good but is too fragile for my liking.

Arsenal2012

iTrader: (7)

Not sure if this has been asked but how interchangeable do you believe the new Sakura XI Sport parts will be with the XI and XIDH?

I have heard you can start with the Zero S and upgrade it to a Zero. So I was curious...

Please PM or post if you know.

Thanks,

6376vette

Just a guess but from the looks of the xi s it will be the same as the zero s. fully upgradeable. if you are going to upgrade be sure to plan well. the xi and the xidh do share some different but interchangeable key parts like the chassis and top deck. personally I don't like the xidh top deck. too weak and easy to break but you can feel the increase in flex. I haven't tried a dh chassis plate yet.

DavidNERODease

Has anyone had trouble with incurable on power oversteer with their Xi DH? This chassis is driving me crazy. Thank goodness it's durable because it's almost freak'n undriveable.

Car is brand new and well built, running indoors on carpet, blinky 17.5, Sorex 28R JB, Jack etc. Off throttle corner entry is good but even slight throttle input severely discombobulates the chassis. It’s very hard to control a driving line – corners are often clipped half way around them. I have never had a car with such an extreme sensitivity to throttle before. No suspension settings seem to cure the disease. The best I’ve been able to do is to reduce overall front traction but then turn in suffers. I tried different rear diff settings but it had no effect. Rear end won’t even stay planted down the straight. Has to be something wrong that I haven’t thought of yet?

6376vette

What are your droop measurements and your toe and camber settings? Also where is your roll center front and rear? I don't have a dh but my xi is glued on carpet with a 17.5.

DavidNERODease

Hehe, forget about my settings! What are yours?
Current settings are:
Roll centres are stock, front camber is 1 degree, rear camber is 2.5 degrees, 1 degree front toe out, stock rear toe... have to check the droop as I changed it several times.

DavidNERODease

Removed the rear anti roll bar too.

6376vette

Too much camber in the rear. go to 1.5 and see if it helps. you probably aren't using much of the rear tire contact patch. lower the rear roll center a bit. put the softest sway bar back on. use the softest rear springs. 30-40 wt oil. Set rear droop to 2mm and the front to 3 mm. 5 to 5.5 ride height. full tire of traction compound in the rear and the inside half on the front. this may give you a slight power on push that can usually be tuned out by taking the front droop to 2mm but try 3 first. Going to 3 degrees of toe in on the rear will help too.

I'm sure you have done this buy just in case make sure your car is balanced left to right. an uneven balance will make cornering inconsistent.

you may also want to change the rear diff oil. try 80wt shock oil to give you more action out of the diff. I strongly suggest the ball diff. it is more cleaning but much easier to adjust and tune. (Many will disagree but I'm sick of changing diff oil and fixing leaks)

be sure to report back on how the changes went.

DavidNERODease

Thank you. Will try again Wednesday. Speaking of diffs... I discovered the big rubber gasket rubs on the diff gears. I trimmed it and the diff was much better. Currently using 2000 cst in it.

6376vette

Getting rid of the rubbing will definitely help. 2000 was a little too thick for my liking but it may suit your driving style. try it and if it seems that the rear is having a tough time following the front through the turns lighten the oil up.

DavidNERODease

Had another frustrating night with the car. Reducing rear camber had an effect along with many other adjustments but the car is still unstable. You can hear the rear tires breaking loose all the time - car seems very hard on tires as others have mentioned. I'm wondering if the non-level diff's are having an effect.

Arsenal2012

iTrader: (7)

Does the XI offer a Rigid rear axle, I would like to get rid of the gear diff. Maybe there is a diff locker offered at the very least?

Similarly does it offer a front one way? I believe I have seen the one way but I have not seen the rigid rear axle.

PLMK thankyou.

6376vette

Are you drifting? A solid rear axle won't be good for much. especially racing. go with the ball diff. its a great improvement over a gear diff but it does need more cleaning since it is exposed.

6376vette

Non level diff? Please explain.

post your COMPLETE setup. not just toe and camber. I need to know everything. droop springs shock oil diff oil toe camber ride height tires racing surface temperature etc. I also need to know when you are loose. corner entry corner exit mid corner under power off power transitioning braking right turns more than left turns etc.

the xi handles very well and I have never had an excessive tire wear issue. what class are you running? Vta usgt 17.5 blinky mod etc. we can get this sorted out.

Arsenal2012

iTrader: (7)

I was considering using it for drift and wanted to know what my options were if I did decide to. I found the front one way.

I know I can tighten the ball diff and make it a solid rear, which is good, do you have a parts number or location I can find the ball diff, a brief search came up with something from R2 hobbies but that does not look like a standard ball diff to me

Is this the only option for solid rear axle or are there others?

Thanks