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Old 11-06-2011, 04:25 AM   #151
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
I did and they are to short.
You have to wind down the springplatform almost to the end.
TM spings are a good fit and i also used Tamiya springs on the Sakura.
This was with the -1mm lower spring retainer.
Left tamiya springs, right the TM springs.

regards Roy
Thanks, that looks good. Do you know if say, the AE springs (or xray and others) will need the -1 retainer?

I havent bought anything yet, so I have to make a call and order some springs. I still need to order sway bars and rear toe bar stuff from 3R, so I can add the retainers, but only if I really need them.
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:25 AM   #152
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Originally Posted by barts71m View Post
They would more than likely work fine with the original shock/shock retainer setup. Can test them out if you like.
Its easy enough for me to try them, I'm just being lazy. LOL.

There's just so many options. TRF shocks vs sakura springs, then theres tamiya springs with trf or the hpi, or ae with sakura, tm sakura with -1 retainers... I'm trying to figure out the most cost effective way to get the car to perform.
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:37 AM   #153
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Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
Its easy enough for me to try them, I'm just being lazy. LOL.

There's just so many options. TRF shocks vs sakura springs, then theres tamiya springs with trf or the hpi, or ae with sakura, tm sakura with -1 retainers... I'm trying to figure out the most cost effective way to get the car to perform.
Was easy for me had plenty of HPI springs and a spare set of TRFs hanging around. The car felt weird with the short springs and shocks to me. Performed better straight up the the HPIs on it, more consistent from lap to lap. Maybe with some testing the short springs might be a goer.
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:59 AM   #154
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Originally Posted by barts71m View Post
Was easy for me had plenty of HPI springs and a spare set of TRFs hanging around. The car felt weird with the short springs and shocks to me. Performed better straight up the the HPIs on it, more consistent from lap to lap. Maybe with some testing the short springs might be a goer.
Just checked them out, they seem fine. I don't actually have any elecs in the car yet except the servo, but I chucked a lipo in and a silver can, with some extra bits i had laying around for esc and receiver. With the Retainers backed out all the way the min ride height was ~1.5mm front and 4mm rear. Screwed all the way down the ride hight was 8mm front and rear. So I should be fine to use mini springs for now, I hover somewhere around 5.5-6mm on my current car, tracks are pretty bumpy that I run on.

I'll chuck the TRFs on my long, seemingly never ending, list of things to buy later.

Also FYI. Tamiya short springs are:
Red: 12.35, Yellow: 13.99, Blue: 15.69
In lb/in.
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Last edited by wollow86; 11-06-2011 at 06:11 AM. Reason: Added Spring Info.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:09 AM   #155
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Hello,

First race this week end, higt grip carpet
The car is very easy to drive, i just change the rear spring to 5.75.

And the Xi is very strong, after a colision at full speed with an oder car, nothing brake !
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:31 PM   #156
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did my first race also

17.5t boosted, low/med traction carpet, sorex28

ended up with the box setup exept the following changes:

700cts oil in rear diff
front gear diff 500k oil
rear camber link in outer hole on the hub
no swaybars in the rear

the car was dialed, very easy to drive fast
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:08 AM   #157
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Great to see everyone having a good time with their XI... I'm struggling badly though.

Can't get the thing to drive properly. The rear keeps breaking loose and it's understeering quite bad. Not blaming the car but I sort of expected it to be 'tamer'.

Out of desperation. I copied the set up of my TCX and still no luck. Was gonna debut it at my local track in the previous race but ended up using the TCX instead.

Could be the track though as the new Serpent 411 apparently struggled badly as well, until the owner shaved off parts of the chassis to make it flex more.

Here's my settings. Any help is greatly appreciated

Motor - 5.5T Hobbywing (8.5 fdr)
Front Diff - Gear (600k silicon)
Rear Diff - Gear (1000 silicon)

Shocks
Front - HPI (silver springs) 400wt 2hole
Rear - Sakura (6.5 springs) 400wt 2hole

Droop
Front - 3mm
Rear - 2mm

Downstop
Front - 4mm
Rear - 3mm

Camber
Front - 1
Rear - 1.5

Toe
Front - 1 out
Rear - 3 in

Swaybars
Softest for both front and rear

everything else as recommended in the manual

Tyres
MuchMore 36

This is the track we run on. Asphalt with med grip. Dusty and sandy at times.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dk0k7ikEcl4
Race starts at 1min 40 mark. The orange and blue car at 2min 27 is my tcx with justock (11.5 no boost) motor.
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:15 AM   #158
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Remove your swaybars in The rest and try softer oil in The test diff, 600cts
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:49 AM   #159
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Go to atleast 700,00 in the front diff of putty I had the same issue on my tc6 the front diff was not pulling the car out of the corner went to the putty up front and it solved the issue,


Quote:
Originally Posted by tak4 View Post
Great to see everyone having a good time with their XI... I'm struggling badly though.

Can't get the thing to drive properly. The rear keeps breaking loose and it's understeering quite bad. Not blaming the car but I sort of expected it to be 'tamer'.

Out of desperation. I copied the set up of my TCX and still no luck. Was gonna debut it at my local track in the previous race but ended up using the TCX instead.

Could be the track though as the new Serpent 411 apparently struggled badly as well, until the owner shaved off parts of the chassis to make it flex more.

Here's my settings. Any help is greatly appreciated

Motor - 5.5T Hobbywing (8.5 fdr)
Front Diff - Gear (600k silicon)
Rear Diff - Gear (1000 silicon)

Shocks
Front - HPI (silver springs) 400wt 2hole
Rear - Sakura (6.5 springs) 400wt 2hole

Droop
Front - 3mm
Rear - 2mm

Downstop
Front - 4mm
Rear - 3mm

Camber
Front - 1
Rear - 1.5

Toe
Front - 1 out
Rear - 3 in

Swaybars
Softest for both front and rear

everything else as recommended in the manual

Tyres
MuchMore 36

This is the track we run on. Asphalt with med grip. Dusty and sandy at times.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dk0k7ikEcl4
Race starts at 1min 40 mark. The orange and blue car at 2min 27 is my tcx with justock (11.5 no boost) motor.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:01 AM   #160
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Thanks for the input. I've tried running it without the rear sway bar but wasn't of much help.

Will try to go up to 700k. Cheers
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:25 AM   #161
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In which part of the corner does the car understeer or oversteer? with on / off throttle?

I would suggest you to try these changes:

- run a higher downstop value in front and rear. reduces weight shifting and should make the car more stable. I run 6mm in the front and 5mm in the rear

- use a harder front spring and sway bar. hpi silver will give the front end alot of steering which you obviously dont need if the cars rear is unstable. if the car does both under- and oversteer, i dont think it is a spring related issue that causes the understeer

- use harder shock oil if the car feels too twichty.

- if you are running the stock rollcenters, try raising the front lower rollcenter by 0.5-1.5 mm. also try long camber linkages ( most inner hole on the bulkheads ) along with the outer hole on the rear uprights for more stability.

- run more camber in the front. maybe 2.0 would take care of too much low speed corner steering problems
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:37 PM   #162
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Hi just wondering why long belt is on right side (push battery placement further away from centerline)? Old Sakura already had belt on left side.

Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2011, 05:47 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Hi just wondering why long belt is on right side (push battery placement further away from centerline)? Old Sakura already had belt on left side.

Thanks.
You can then move electrics closer in . It also makes it easier to balance the car. Most brands of car do this now. You can also do this with the old Sakura if you use the vertrical motor mount
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:54 AM   #164
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Thanks for the input guys.

Took the whole car apart to troubleshoot the entire thing... turned out one of the rear bearings had seized.

Was not suspecting that as the car is still so new and wheels rolled fine by touch. But yep replaced the bearing and it works fine now.
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:02 AM   #165
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Tak4

Ive just become a X1 owner after years of Yokomo's

try this setup

droop 6 and 4

oil 45wt front and rear with 3 hole pistons

Ride red springs front and rear or HPI silver front and rear

wheelbase long each end

geardiff front 100,000 wt
rear 2000wt

keep camber as is .....

see how you go regards Mark Miller
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