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Old 01-12-2012, 05:38 PM   #421
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Carl - The inline car needs a much softer set-up than the car with the battery across the center. We did see that when Pete was testing at IIC with the inline - Pete did switch back to standard battery position and prefer it better (at IIC at least).
Josh,

I was watching the video of the 13.5 A-main and Pete's car looked incredibly dialed @ the IIC.

Was he using the standard Griffin inline chassis, just with the battery in the transverse position? ie: was he still using the longer wheelbase chassis?
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:49 PM   #422
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Hey Josh,

I was looking into getting the new front end parts for the Griffin 12. Do the bulk heads and blocks come in pairs? For 17.5 blinky would you recommend grey/black fronts and grey/yellow rears?
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #423
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Swampracer - RC Trim of course!!!

James - He was using the new chassis but they are the exact same wheel base as the old car. I even just checked the parts files to make sure there wasn't a mistake somewhere in there but they are exactly the same. The new chassis simply has the option to turn the battery inline and mount the center shock.

Carl - For gluing tires, my fav is Losi or AKA glue with the tube on it. Just tip the bottle (don't even have to squeeze hardly) and set the tube right against the edge of the rim spinning the tire with the other hand/finger. When it spins it sort of drags the glue out and you'll have a good "bead" that will put glue on the rim and foam without running up the sidewall of the tire. Whenever possible, I actually try running smaller front tires without glue vs running larger with glue. It's so hard to be precise with glue unless you glue first and then put the tire on the truer to sand the glue down to a desired diameter - I did that for a bit but a PITA..lol...
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:55 PM   #424
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khador - All parts on the site come as they are show in the pictures. The blocks only come in singles. We are actually waiting on the hardware to come in and will be packaging up complete front end kits here possibly mid/end of next week. I would think those tires would be a really good choice for blinky class but then again, I haven't run that so I can't be 100% sure.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:06 PM   #425
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I run 1/12th 17.5 blinky with the inline setup and my car is set up stiff.

.020 front springs
Gold center assco spring
crc white side springs
I run one damper tube with 30,000 losi lube
30,000 losi lube on the kingpins
gray low rears with black front tires

Its the fastest car on the track but gets loose at the end of a run.
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:03 AM   #426
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Hello Josh, I now you have you hands full sow I will be running my Oval car as it is for snowbirds as the car is sow good :-)

I'm are looking forward to get those sexy "#4 - Griffin 12 Offset Axles" on my onroad car to as for now it is only my oval car that has it and my onroad car is jealous on my oval car.

Z4 tiers will you be have thy ready for snowbirds ? may you can stick rear rim in my order sow I have a sample to make a tire truer adapter.

what about running Z4 in the rear in 12 scale oval ?

Alf :-)

Last edited by alf.skaar; 01-13-2012 at 04:09 AM.
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:04 AM   #427
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I will use the Tamiya suspension on my Evo.
Is it a direct fit for the stabilser bars?
How/where do I mount them to the bulkheads?
Can some post a pic please.

Much appreciated.
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:44 AM   #428
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sprint - Normally, I don't like running 30k on the 1/12 cars. Usually seems too stiff and I always burn the rear tires off the car. I prefer that 15k Kyosho grease in the tubes and on the king pins. I also haven't seen many run the AE gold center spring, usually we run an AE blue with 40wt in the HB shock. Also, it may make the car push a little bit more but maybe something small like .005" extra shim on the front springs would help that.

Alf - Sounds good! I'm looking forward to the Birds and may join you in the 1/12 oval - I'm not racing on-road this year. Yes, I do think the Z4 wheels will be good in oval but we will see. We are trying to have them ready for the race. I will see what I can do with a rim for your order (not sure where it is in the stack currently shipping or shipped).

SuperMario - I will have to send you some pics when I get home, we mount them to the front of the shock towers like the Photon with the aluminum bracket.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:39 AM   #429
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Yeah Ithats why I run one damper tube becasue both made the car push. I will get some 15k lube and go from there. Do you think the .020 spring on the front are to heavy. I do have a set of .018 I can try along with a blue center spring. What kinda caster should I run.
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:44 PM   #430
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sprintcarracer

I'm sure that Josh have more on this, but I can try to help you

First what do you have in the center damper ? if the oil is to thick for that grip/bumpy or not then I will change it to 250cst or 25wt and blue spring
and more drop.

next if the grip is not high enough you may need to switch to magenta front, and may in the rear to, what tier additive are you using ?

And before you do anything take the motor out or all off the pod out and the spring brace and check if it is free, the pro trick is to run the pivot lock screw loos sow when you get at hit it can move and move back but not to lose you need to be able to move by you finger. I see Euro final be lost due to this.

Alf
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:32 PM   #431
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
James - He was using the new chassis but they are the exact same wheel base as the old car. I even just checked the parts files to make sure there wasn't a mistake somewhere in there but they are exactly the same. The new chassis simply has the option to turn the battery inline and mount the center shock.
My apologies... I just assumed that the chassis was longer since most of the current inline chassis are longer than their transverse counterparts.

From a design standpoint, did you and your drivers feel that the current wheelbase of the Griffin 12 was ideal? Have you done any testing with longer wheelbases?
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:48 AM   #432
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sprint - I think with the inline car it's possible for the .020's to be too stiff, especially in the slower classes. Castor depends on the track and driver. It's more of a preference thing really. I usually adjust it depending on the track layout more than anything. Hairpins = more castor, sweeping corners = less.

Alf - With the pod leverage on our car, 25wt would be really light for dampening. We never run below 35wt.

James - Actually I made the origional prototype for the Griffin slightly longer than most of the other cars on the market - I believe most were 196-198mm at the time (including out Phoenix). I went 200mm. I ran that car at the ROAR Nats in 2009 for the first time but that was 4cell. I then ran it at the IIC for the first time with 1s and wanted a longer chassis so I added some lenght to it. So, the production Griffin was made quite a bit longer than any other car on the market at that time (4-6mm longer). Since, we've had great results and one by one, we've seen all the 1/12 companies copy various parts from our car but most all have stretched the wheel base longer to within 1-2mm of our lenght. I've seen a few try to go even further (205mm) but that's too far. The cars just become too lazy and won't rotate hard enough.
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:21 AM   #433
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James - Actually I made the origional prototype for the Griffin slightly longer than most of the other cars on the market - I believe most were 196-198mm at the time (including out Phoenix). I went 200mm. I ran that car at the ROAR Nats in 2009 for the first time but that was 4cell. I then ran it at the IIC for the first time with 1s and wanted a longer chassis so I added some lenght to it. So, the production Griffin was made quite a bit longer than any other car on the market at that time (4-6mm longer). Since, we've had great results and one by one, we've seen all the 1/12 companies copy various parts from our car but most all have stretched the wheel base longer to within 1-2mm of our lenght. I've seen a few try to go even further (205mm) but that's too far. The cars just become too lazy and won't rotate hard enough.
Josh, thanks for the information. I appreciate you taking the time to address these questions. I have been eyeing the Griffin 12 for some time. I really like the design. I am also very interested in the new front end parts as well. There are so many good looking 12th scales out nowadays, though, it is hard to choose.

Since you designed the car, do you happen to know the wheelbase of the Top Rebel 12? I measured the Top Rebel next to my Associated inline 5.1 and was surprised see that they had basically identical wheelbases. Maybe differed by .5mm or so, but for all intents and purposes they were the same. I had always assumed the inline 5.1 would have been longer.
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:17 AM   #434
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I just started trying the semi inline setup with the griffin 12 in blinky and tried mike ivy's 13.5 setup the only thing I had to change was the side springs, I had to go stiffer (blue) to gain steering , but I'm running black/orange tires and not mag/mag. The car works great and is very fast.
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:32 PM   #435
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Thank you to everyone for the setup info. I did try what everyone suggested last night during racing. I went back to my original setup but wound up running 10k lube in the tubes and the car was faster in an 8min run over the soft setup.

I should have taken the time to share the track conditions at my local track. I'm not bashing my local track but one of the guys I race with said it would be like racing on ice with sand on top. That's about how it is very light to no groove slick and dirty very dirty and the track is 60ft by 36ft so its very small.

The soft setup made the car feel very planted but maybe to much and the stiffer setup felt free and rotated almost to good. I also ran the soft setup with magenta front and rear and then black front and gray low rear. Both were identical in race time. I also ran the other way around on the stiff setup and the black gray low setup was by far faster.

I'm not saying you guys are wrong on your setup tips I did try them but I'm thinking the track my have something to do with it.
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