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Old 01-11-2012, 09:10 PM   #406
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Hey Carl,and Josh

I've bee running the inline setup for quite sometime now with very good results. The class Im currently running is 1/12th 13.5 boosted.

The car feels more stable on high bite very easy to drive. Its has a bit more corner speed and transitions very well through chicanes.Prop's to Josh, I love the car!!! One of the best car's I've driven!!!

I posted my current setup in pdf form. It works well on low bite to high bite conditions with minimal changes to the car.

Hope This Helps.
Mike
I noticed your setup sheet said that you were using the HB center shock... What cap top cap are you using in those photos?
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:34 PM   #407
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Hey JamesL_71,

The Cap top is off of the Silvia shock. I had them Anodized Blue a long while ago.

Hope this helps



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I noticed your setup sheet said that you were using the HB center shock... What cap top cap are you using in those photos?
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:05 PM   #408
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Hey JamesL_71,

The Cap top is off of the Silvia shock. I had them Anodized Blue a long while ago.

Hope this helps
Awesome, thanks. Are you still using the original HB bladder?
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:07 AM   #409
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Josh

I was trying to figure out what Tamiya steering system uses a 20mm spacing, The 416/417 seems to be almost 30mm. Any help would be great, thanks!
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:40 AM   #410
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Hey JamesL_71,

Yes Im still using the Original HB Bladder

Hope this helps
Mike

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Awesome, thanks. Are you still using the original HB bladder?
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:05 AM   #411
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This morning, I worked on the shopping site a little more and changed how the catagories are viewed - There is now a product bar across the top of the page that you can jump through the different catagories and mfg's we have on the site. I think it works better than the side column so let me know if you guys give it the thumbs up or down.

Also, our Z4 1/12 hubs will be here either this Friday or Monday. Along with that our new WGT Hubs and Evo TC Motor & Mount Plates will be in stock. Z4 1/12 rims are being sent out today for mounting so it looks like we are about 3-4 months behind schedule of where we were supposed to be but finally it's all coming together. Next on the list to work on - Front End Kits (1/12 and 1/10) along with PRO KITS.... A few steps away and looking better now for 100% CEFX kits in 2012 (probably end of summer).

Mike - I was going to ask the same ? about the shock but figured maybe AE made a new one that looked just like HB with blue top..lol...

avink007 - The old system I had out of the 415 was on 20mm centers (graphite plate). I thought the newer Tamiya stuff was also (I haven't had one to measure) but I'm guessing that I'm mistaken?
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:01 AM   #412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike ivy View Post
Hey Carl,and Josh

I've bee running the inline setup for quite sometime now with very good results. The class Im currently running is 1/12th 13.5 boosted.

The car feels more stable on high bite very easy to drive. Its has a bit more corner speed and transitions very well through chicanes.Prop's to Josh, I love the car!!! One of the best car's I've driven!!!

I posted my current setup in pdf form. It works well on low bite to high bite conditions with minimal changes to the car.

Hope This Helps.
Mike
Hey Mike,

Any particular reason you run the battery inline on the drivers side as opposed to the passengers side? Just curious, I've been running passengers side, but everything else pretty much the same. Thx.
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:13 AM   #413
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Josh

I double checked with the newer Tamiya steering and it's about 30mm between center. It would be cool if you could remake Part #: TAM3454512 but with 20mm spacing. Then we could use the newer Tamiya steering arms, use the lipo locator on top of the steerings as the brace and have a super smooth steering setup.

Thanks
Adam
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:49 AM   #414
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Mike, thank for the setup guidance...I'm not far off your set-up, but still having problems coming to grips with the best tire combo for my driving style using SXT traction. (keep going back and forth between magenta fr / pink rear or Lilac fr / orange rear combo)

This past weekend 369 v2 raceway in New Rochelle had a cash race drawing 17 heats in total (in 1/12th we had 2x full heats of 13.5 boosted and 2x heats of 17.5 blinky) Nice to see 1/12th making a comeback.

I'm not yet running the in-line chassis (still waiting for receipt of the conversion kit from my recent order) In any event... I was just over 2 full laps from the likes of Donnie L, Kevin H and Mike H in 13.5 boosted. This is fine for me considering the lack of stick time..but i know there is more in the car... my problem has been dealing with finding a balance in tire combo... (i.e. application time of the SXT & how much to use) I'm excitied to Josh is offering fr & rear tires with a harder compound on the outer edge.

One question... the black ASC side springs are softest offered? Do you know how these would compare to the linear springs offered by speed merchant?

Difference between my set-up and yours is I'm using .20 front springs, .20 linear side springs in the rear, 3.6MM ride height, 20,000 ASC diff lube front pins and side tubes. Overall sounds like I have too stiff of a chassis for 13.5 boosted.

Josh.. I placed an order on Tuesday, has it shipped yet? Finally, how about a CEFX conversion kit for the Tamiya F104 (F1 racing has replaced WGT around here).
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:42 PM   #415
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Hey Carl,

Here's a couple options. If your running the Standard position with the linear springs. Try a Red center spring with 15k in the tubes and on the king pins.The red center spring brings back the steering.

I liked the progressive spring cause the car cornered alot better. Try this...
Associated gold side springs with blue center shock 15k in the tubes and king pin.Just watch out how much preload you use on the gold springs you just want it to touch the links. I used josh's Mod setup when I ran the standard position and the car was dialed!!!!

If the golds are to much for ya go with the blue side springs.

As for tires for 13.5 boosted stick with either a magenta front a pink rear or magentas all round. If you glue the front sidewalls, watch out how far up you put it up the side. If you go up way to far it will make the car push

I keep it around where the tire meets the rim area if that makes any sense Lol... Also try running some chassis rake 3.5mm front and 4mm rear.

As for body try CRC's Audi the closed cockpit one it rotates very well.If your running the AMR mount in 5mm forward it should help with alittle steering.

The Associated Black spring is the softest spring, roughly equal to the .18 Linear spring.

Yes i was looking at Josh's new rims when i get working again im going to order me some sets. I just recently got laid off Lol.... Dang Lol....I was planing on making a huge order to Lol....

Post your detailed setup and I can better help you as well.

If you have any more questions feel free to contact me.
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:47 PM   #416
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Hey Kuruption,

When I got the car I was'nt sure which side to put the battery Lol... So I went off of some of the pictures of Associated's inline 12r5.1 car.The car is balanced on both side's. Im going to ask Josh what side he recommends.

Hope this helps
Mike




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Hey Mike

Any particular reason you run the battery inline on the drivers side as opposed to the passengers side? Just curious, I've been running passengers side, but everything else pretty much the same. Thx.
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:27 PM   #417
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I made the chassis adjustable for the track you race on - Example - Snowbirds (mostly left turns) put the pack on the left due to higher CG of the pack. IIC (mostly right turns) put the pack on the right... This is my .02 on this one.

Adam - I'll try to get my hands on a newer car (maybe at the Birds?) and check that spread or just order up one of the parts. Yes, that was the origional idea with that front Lipo locator - Mount on the chassis for the slider or use it as the steering brace for the Tamiya steering. I know the Xray steering system is 21mm spread so it would be a close fit in that regard but I'm not sure about the rest of the dimensions.

Carl - The inline car needs a much softer set-up than the car with the battery across the center. We did see that when Pete was testing at IIC with the inline - Pete did switch back to standard battery position and prefer it better (at IIC at least). Don't be afraid to try Magenta rears - I've prefered them the past few years over pinks in the rear. I've also bounced between Pink and Magenta fronts depending on the track/traction. Lower grip, magenta and higher I use pink - Believe it or not but the pink actually drives a little smoother and doesn't hike the inside rear as much as the magenta.
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:54 PM   #418
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I was told, although the chassis may be balance side to side, its better to mount the LIPO for an in-line chassis on the side of the chassis so the LIPO is on the inside of the main sweeper... hope this makes sense.

Mike, thats for the suggestion. I think my biggest problem in the main was the unexpected understeer. To you point, be careful when gluing the side walls. I only had ZAP Brand Thin CA which is like water, so i usually apply the CA to the front tire using a Q-Tip. I'll notice some guys using Losi standard CA or even the AKA stuff with the small apllicator.

I'll post my set-up shortly.
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:38 PM   #419
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Default Quick question

Hello Josh,

Just a quick random question? What brand of pit lite are you using?

Thanks Greg G
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:36 PM   #420
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Hey Carl,

Cool thanks for the info. As for the what kind of CA your using is fine. Its how you put it on.You dont want to go all the way up the sidewall you'll get inconsistent steering. The Illustration bellow will give more consistent steering.


I made an Illustration so you can seen what im talking about. They look pretty bad LOL... but i think you get a visual on what im talking about. Also, Set your front end up in the Illustration below.

Hope this helps, your car is going to be dialed when I get done helping you

Mike




Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
I was told, although the chassis may be balance side to side, its better to mount the LIPO for an in-line chassis on the side of the chassis so the LIPO is on the inside of the main sweeper... hope this makes sense.

Mike, thats for the suggestion. I think my biggest problem in the main was the unexpected understeer. To you point, be careful when gluing the side walls. I only had ZAP Brand Thin CA which is like water, so i usually apply the CA to the front tire using a Q-Tip. I'll notice some guys using Losi standard CA or even the AKA stuff with the small apllicator.

I'll post my set-up shortly.
Attached Thumbnails
CEFX 2011-tire-glue-illustration.jpg   CEFX 2011-1-12th-front-end-seup-12r.5.jpg  
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