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Old 01-01-2012, 08:55 PM   #376
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You could try AE green rears, silver, blue or even gold fronts. No rear sway bar.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/1-10...ingChartv2.pdf
Thanks! I will give the softer springs a try.

Also, thanks for the link to the spring chart
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:33 AM   #377
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Photos as promised


Hi, I was wondering what was the black little box right behing your PT, on the left of the car ? thanks
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:53 AM   #378
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What spring rate is everyone running on their EVO? The rear of my EVO is still super loose mainly on corner entry when off throttle. I have gone down to an xray yellow spring (14.0 lb) which did help some. My track is pretty much a medium bite track, and I have played with roll centers and sway bars without much luck. Should I go even softer on the rear springs?

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How is your front to rear balance? To much weight on the rear will cause this and going to a softer spring will only make it worse.
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:00 AM   #379
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What spring rate is everyone running on their EVO? The rear of my EVO is still super loose mainly on corner entry when off throttle. I have gone down to an xray yellow spring (14.0 lb) which did help some. My track is pretty much a medium bite track, and I have played with roll centers and sway bars without much luck. Should I go even softer on the rear springs?

Thanks
I don't think softening the rear is going to help. The issue is your transfering too much weight to the front when you let off the throttle so I would either take out some rear droop or go with a harder front spring or a little thicker front shock oil. Hope this helps
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:28 AM   #380
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I think you guys are right about the weight transfer as the key issue, especially because I was putting softer and softer springs on with little or no luck. The car hooks up pretty good on throtle, but I think the front is still too soft and I will now play with droop and stiffen up the front end.

Where do you measure the rear droop from? I was using the lowest part of the rear hub (the curved part) and I had it set at 2mm. Should this be measured from the A-arm instead?
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:51 AM   #381
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When I measure droop I use the over ride height method. Measure your ride height (we'll use 5mm) then lift car till tire comes off ground and measure,that's your droop. I normaly start at 2mm over ride height than tune from their.
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:45 AM   #382
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:51 PM   #383
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Highside - What set-up are you running? Have you tried a shorter front link or longer rear?

Z4 rims are finally here - There was an issue with the mold that delayed things quite a while. They are being shipped off tomorrow for mounting.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:31 AM   #384
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Highside - What set-up are you running? Have you tried a shorter front link or longer rear?
Josh,

I started with one of your setups (maybe from nats?) and I have gone all over the place from there. The car is getting way better race after race. I went back to a spool and a ball diff with the stock TOP drive line just because they are faster to adjust. Currently Iím running the front upper arms at the longest position and the rear uppers on the shortest position. What affects will changing the arm length have? Iím very interested in your ideas! I can also post my latest setup if that would help.

Thanks!
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Old 01-05-2012, 02:59 PM   #385
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Highside20 - To me, that would be the most aggressive camber link setting. Usually, a longer link has more traction - Longer in the front = more steering and longer in the rear = more rear traction. I usually adjusted the rear link lenght depending on how tight of track/corners there are and how fast I needed the rear end to help the car change directions. Shorter for tight hairpins or chicanes or longer for more high speed/sweeping corners. Also, with the Evo cars and Photon before, I run the rear link nearly parallel with the lower arm at all times. If you measure from your inner and outer ball cup down to the suspension arm, I was always within 2mm of parallel and usually around 1mm in the rear. The front, would again depend on the track but usually I always ran the super long front link. I just always prefered the way it drove - smooth with a lot of steering.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:27 PM   #386
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Highside20 - To me, that would be the most aggressive camber link setting. Usually, a longer link has more traction - Longer in the front = more steering and longer in the rear = more rear traction. I usually adjusted the rear link lenght depending on how tight of track/corners there are and how fast I needed the rear end to help the car change directions. Shorter for tight hairpins or chicanes or longer for more high speed/sweeping corners. Also, with the Evo cars and Photon before, I run the rear link nearly parallel with the lower arm at all times. If you measure from your inner and outer ball cup down to the suspension arm, I was always within 2mm of parallel and usually around 1mm in the rear. The front, would again depend on the track but usually I always ran the super long front link. I just always prefered the way it drove - smooth with a lot of steering.
Thank you Josh!

Your explaination was very helpful and now I will make some changes and see how she runs.
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:24 AM   #387
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Josh,

Any thoughts of making the droop plates for the EVO out of brass or something heavy. Might be a nice way to add weight to the car.
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:05 PM   #388
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My new Evo. Just upgraded from the previous Evo chassis, kept with the TOP suspension. Tamiya all black shocks, Xray turnbuckles, Aeromax ECS for a 416/417, SpecR rear gear diff. I redrilled and tapped the bulkheads to take a 3mm screw for the upper screws instead of the 2.6mm threaded screws. Not too many parts left from the original Photon. Should be good to go. It was a fun build... Snowbirds are getting closer!
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:50 AM   #389
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My new Evo. Just upgraded from the previous Evo chassis, kept with the TOP suspension. Tamiya all black shocks, Xray turnbuckles, Aeromax ECS for a 416/417, SpecR rear gear diff. I redrilled and tapped the bulkheads to take a 3mm screw for the upper screws instead of the 2.6mm threaded screws. Not too many parts left from the original Photon. Should be good to go. It was a fun build... Snowbirds are getting closer!
Looks like you painted the edge of your chassis. What kinda paint did you use and did you brush it on.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:32 AM   #390
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My new Evo. Just upgraded from the previous Evo chassis, kept with the TOP suspension. Tamiya all black shocks, Xray turnbuckles, Aeromax ECS for a 416/417, SpecR rear gear diff. I redrilled and tapped the bulkheads to take a 3mm screw for the upper screws instead of the 2.6mm threaded screws. Not too many parts left from the original Photon. Should be good to go. It was a fun build... Snowbirds are getting closer!
Bring it to MMR on the 15th! Let do battle!
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