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Old 12-11-2002, 04:11 PM   #961
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Hi guys...has anyone measured their cars for overall weight with full electrics, batteries, motor etc...
Im find my car is way heavier than most other cars...even tho I've got the Carbon Damper Stays and Carbon Lower deck on my TA04R.
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Old 12-11-2002, 04:15 PM   #962
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BuggZI

Are you running the stock diff outdrives? Those things weigh a ton! Tamiya has lightweight plastic outdrives that are much lighter. A set of 4 weighs less than one of the kit outdrives.
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Old 12-11-2002, 04:39 PM   #963
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do you guys have droop in the front? i have no droop in the front, only at the rear.
what spring setup are you guys running?
thanks
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Old 12-11-2002, 04:52 PM   #964
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Yeah,
or if you want to experiment with mre flex, use 2 rubber o rings (shock) underneath the 2 screws which connect the top deck to the rear bulkhed.
Good luck.

Pizza
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Old 12-11-2002, 04:52 PM   #965
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Pyscho...
Im running a front one-way...so no delrin there...but the rear diffs have the delrin outdrives...
I am however using 2400 Nicads...and an LRP v7.1 which might attribute to the extra weight...
The minimum weight where I race is 1400g..Im running 1640g...
does that sound right?
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Old 12-11-2002, 04:56 PM   #966
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Bugzzi,


Depends wheter the rest of your car is stock!


What chassis are you running?! a lot of weihgt to be gained heere.
Lightweight, or regular body?

for more weights, search in this thread for the weights which Steevo posted.
That should get you started!

Good luck
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Old 12-11-2002, 05:03 PM   #967
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Pizzadude..
Im actually using the carbon fibre lower deck...
I want to revert back to the original lightweight carbon reinforce lower deck but Im worried that it will add more wieght...

Any body have any overall weight measurements so that i can compare?
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Old 12-11-2002, 05:09 PM   #968
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Aty this time my car has for options the LW version F360, and the 52001 carbon sadlle pack chassis plates.
Rest is stock TA-04 Pro!!!
Total weight incl LRP V6, Tamiya Type T motor, Novak mercury and a Keil Fet Servo with Sanyo 3000HV.
Total weight 1512 grams.
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Old 12-11-2002, 05:20 PM   #969
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Nicads wouldn't weight 100g more than Nimhs would they??
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Old 12-11-2002, 05:33 PM   #970
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nope
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Old 12-11-2002, 05:36 PM   #971
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I think I need to play around with the car...work out what the extra weight is from...

Thanks for all your advice..PizzaDude and Pyscho...
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Old 12-11-2002, 06:17 PM   #972
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Pizzadude,
About the orings, is it 2 orings per screw or 1 per screw?
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Old 12-11-2002, 06:42 PM   #973
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Quote:
Originally posted by jackhammer74
Hey imataquito if you notice that's why xray now offers an optional flexible upper deck. On the TA04R you can control the amount of chassis flex by using the two middle screws on the upper deck or omitting either one or both.
Yes I recommend removing the screws and giving it a go. I have a custom made carbon fibre upper deck that has no holes for the middle posts and has eliminated the front cross brace. It works a treat.

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Old 12-11-2002, 06:45 PM   #974
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sengming

The droop adjustments are the grub screws that go through each arm and touch the lower deck. You need to set your ride height before adjusting the droop. If you're raising the ride height with the droop already set, you'll need to back out the droop adjustments. If you are running any limiters on the shocks, you'll want to remove them. Since the car has droop adjustments there is no need for limiters in the shocks. The way that I adjust the droop on the car is as follows:

1. Set the ride height to whatever makes sense (keeping in mind that lower ride height = more mechanical grip, but less steering) I'd suggest starting with 5mm ride height all around. You'll need a ride height guage to measure this accurately, but the spurgears that come with the car are 5mm thick, so you can use that as a guide. Use the thumbscrew thingies on the threaded body shocks or preload spacers on non-threaded body shocks to set the ride height.

2. Put on a set of wheels or setup wheels and press both ends of the car down and let it return to the normal resting height.

3. With a screwdriver or x-acto knife blade, raise the frontend of the car up and measure the ride hight just before the front wheels lift off your workbench. The difference between this height and the ride height at rest is the amount of droop. For example, if you start off with a 5mm ride height and the wheels lift at 7mm, you have 2mm of droop.

4. Adjust the grub screws on each arm to add or reduce droop as needed and retest by raising the car up until the wheel lifts off and remeasure.

You need to make sure you have exactly the same amount of droop on both sides of each end of the car. I suggest starting off with 1mm droop up front and 2mm in back. You can add droop if you need more steering. I usually try to keep the same ratio between front and rear. If I go to 2mm droop up front, I'll go to 4mm in the back. Keep in mind that the car will be more rolly with more droop and less responsive on the twisties. I hope that helps.
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Old 12-12-2002, 12:45 AM   #975
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Wilfred,

srew
washer
1x o-ring
topdeck



Pizza
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