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Old 10-30-2002, 06:04 PM
  #811  
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I think the reason why is that the ball diff has a smoother diff action and can be adjusted, whilst the bevel gear diffs are not. As you would tend to want a tighter diff up front, it is better to put the ball diff in the rear. That's my understanding anyway.

Originally posted by rccarracer
From my research you would place it in the rear, but I can't remeber why....anyone want to refresh my memory?
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Old 10-30-2002, 06:07 PM
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i would put the ball diff in the front wheels,...
reason is because the front wheels will be the 1s which will be negotiating the corner 1st...
anyway,tat's wat i prefer...
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Old 10-30-2002, 06:22 PM
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Thats 2 for the rear and one for the front. I might take this to the open forum and see what i get..
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Old 10-30-2002, 06:37 PM
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I think really it is personal preference after research and testing....
But also most people would upgrade both the front and rear diffs when they do...
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Old 10-30-2002, 07:34 PM
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tat's wat i have,...ball diff on both ends and running centre 1 way...
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Old 10-30-2002, 07:41 PM
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I've been running a duel one-way setu on my 414M...
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Old 10-30-2002, 07:44 PM
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tamiya are releasing titanium turnbuckles for their cars soon.
the info has been updated in their parts list...

can't wait 2 get my hands on those...
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Old 10-30-2002, 08:05 PM
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IMHO its ok to place it in front or in the rear ... depends on how u would like it .......

bevel gears have no constrain or any friction it just keep spinning and will NOT stop that easilly if u were to rotate one side and leave it - the other side will keep spinning

while ball diffs are tighter where it will stop rotating in opposite direction once theres NO FORCE applied ...

so if u want ur car hard to drive .... and twichy put ball in the rear.....
u will get instanious 180 deg or 360 deg once u go onpower with staring turned ... ( remember the whel still ahve diff action but its as free as one ways ...while one ways *LOCK* on power creating a pushing effect )

or if u want it EASIER to drive and a bit of PUSH put it in front .... but beware as the rear end tends to be VERY VERY LOOSE and easilly *thrown* in to turns ... and if overthrow u will end up with a VERY SLOW CAR and .... maybe 180 or 360 deg spin ......
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Old 11-06-2002, 10:48 AM
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what do you guys think about the Raybrig NSX 2002, the one that comes with all the hop ups, well not all but damn near all.

I'm trying to choose between an 04 and a 414M. I like the 04 because I would race it in a TCS GT2 race but I want to hear from you guys before I make my decision. I know that the LHS carries parts for Tamiya, well stocked actually, so that it taken care of.

I'm currently running a FTTC3 but want to get another Tamiya kit since my TB01 is just sitting collecting dust.

Thanks for the advice
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Old 11-06-2002, 05:28 PM
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the 04r is gd,but expect to spend more on hop-ups such as carbon damper stays n 1-ways etc...
i spent a lot on my 04r actually,...depending on wat u like,i personally feel tat it's gd even when it's stock...

in terms of tuning,the 04r is limited compare 2 the 414m...

hard 2 say which is better off buying etc,...it really depends on wat u like...i know i bought the 04r...hehee
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Old 11-06-2002, 07:28 PM
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I use Kyosho titanium turnbuckles for my tamiya. they're nice and come in good sizes for tamiya. since I'm using the 04R front suspension blocks, i just got 2 sets of 30mm and another for the rear.
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Old 11-07-2002, 03:39 AM
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If you wanna race TCS get teh 04R... plain and simple...... But if TCS isn't in your future get the M2.......
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Old 11-07-2002, 07:16 AM
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Cool, thanks for the information
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Old 11-11-2002, 04:03 PM
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Does anyone know if the sway bar kit for the wc car will fit on the 04 I am thinking with a little modification it might. Please post if you have an asnwer.

Thanks
Jesse
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Old 11-12-2002, 08:06 AM
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Hi Jesse, I just got my hands on the WC sway bar kit today. Like you, i was hoping it would fit on my O4R but unfortunately only the carbon graphite suspension arms fit to a T. The mod that has to be done is on the graphite upper deck, this is gonna be a little confusing but i'll my best to paint a clear picture as possible. What is required of the WC sway bar kit is, the two ball connector for our tension rod has to be taken out (on the upper deck) and in place something known as stbilizer block A & B has to be fitted in it's place. A(2 aluminium blocks like a servo mount) fits ok but B(a piece of graphite) is not in line with the 2 holes in our upper deck, the 414M upper deck is narrower i guess. then the sway bar is placed on top both this blocks and secured with 2 parts only available on the 414m kits. I guess, it can be done but we gotta fabricate a few stuff. So theres the low down buddy, if u still wanna get it, go ahead, let me know if you successfully mod the kit. Cheers
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