ijnek

did any1 cross-reference tis tt-01 to the evo2???...
the placement of the electronics and batt reminds mi of the evo2's placement of the electronics and batt...

here's a pic of the evo2,mayb it will ring a bell in every1's mind...
similiar rite?...

TRF_SPAIN

Yeah is a "low bucks hight fun" chassis, i think that is going to change progresively the stock touring class, throwing out the TL01..., if next year is allowed on the TCS for that class, i´m gonna drive one for sure! looks promising!

Geetoo

iTrader: (1)

Yup your right. Or probably another chassis to be added for stock touring class. Tires looks stock though or maybe come out with a rally body soon. Seems intruiging to me but can't tell what TAmiya is really up to.

coolrcdad

The TT-01 is a QD (RTR) version of the TB-01.

Corse-R

Hi to all:

This weekend (Spanish TCS) I tested the 2º toe-in rear uprights on my 04 and worked flawlessly. In the past I blamed with a too much alive rear end, with those upright the car was planted and my laptimes went much better.

Regarding the car is something strange (isn't a 04-S and neither an 04-R.... is something between two)... some people asked me where I got those chasis (lightweight carbon tub) and the tech asked me too (at this time isn't available here, and very few units are on the street).

My setup was this:

Front:

70wt oil and 2 hole shock piston.
White spring.
Upper shock end inwards.
Lower shock end outwards.
Camber link at stock position.
2 degree camber.
A little less than 1 degree toe-out.
Ball diff with lightweight outdrives.

Rear:
40wt oil and 2 hole shock piston.
Yellow spring.
Upper shock end on middle hole.
Lower shock end outwards.
Camber link attached at the inner/lower hole (in) and in the optional location at the outer end (the other hole on the uprights).
2º degree toe-in rear uprights.
2 degree camber.
Gear diff .

Motor: Fantom 12x3 at 43/120 (I wished to have a 44 or 45T to perform better).
Tamiya Type B2 tyres with +2 dish wheels and JB Foams black insert.
Honda NSX Castrol body.

Notes:
I wished to have an one-way , but nobody gave me one to test and get more speed. Terrific speed and steering. but a little understeer at low speed turns, at high speed turns very well planted. Ended at 13th with a 12T motor (others bolted their 10 and 9 turns, that's not bad at all).

Any suggestions to have better low speed turning?

Alvin

WHOA! 5.9:1 Final Drive!!!!!! Must have been a blast to run!

Ahem anyway, do you have the TA04 RACING HUB CARRIER SET 53458? The improves steering by quite a bit.

Also, do you want the steering to improve while on or off power? You might wanna try the inner hole on the front shock tower, a longer link will decrease the aggressiveness of the car, but it'll help the car bite more towards the end of a turn.

Alternatively, more on power steering try running less suspension droop on the front. For more off power steering try running more suspension droop in the rear.

rccarracer

What was the motor like after you ran it at that ratio? A little HOT?

Corse-R

Basically If I could get more of power steering the setup should be quasi-perfect for the track conditions.

Well: 5,9:1 isn't an uncommon ratio (two weeks ago I used a 112/43 with another 12T, but very difficult to mesh). Uhhhhmph! with those 12T babies is way dificult to catch the 'bad guys' armed with 10T missiles... One friend of me ran a Fantom Epic 10x2 motor with a 7,38:1 ratio (that was ballistic).

Corse-R

Nope, the motor isn't insanely hot, was hot (remember that got 5 minutes of continuous punishment), but isn't was too hot to touch or burn your fingers (maybe the window that has the chassis helped to cool it a little.

Alvin

More off power steering... as mentioned above, allow the rear suspension to droop more -> more weight transfer to front when off power -> more steering. This works for me. If you're using the original plastic chassis I guess you need to play with the internal droop limiters? I could be mistaken. Get the racing hubs if you can.

Also, you might wanna try different upper shock mount positions, I usally run mine @ the higher position. I feel I get more steering with 'em upright.

You should check out my 13x2 geared at 7:1

Corse-R

Uhm! this weekend i'll give another try to blue springs (previously I used white springs) to test another time.

Regarding chassis: I switched my plastic tub for the Carbon lightweight chassis and is the major improvement, now the car feels much better and their behaviour is sweeet!.

Sheeesh! those scary pictures.... what kind of brush do you use? The grooves are very deep, consider those motor dead (or almost). Change your ratio to a more adequate for this wind.... (maybe a 5.5:1 can be fine, much people thinks that undergearing their motors is fine for them.... Wrong! you're frying your arm, like the picture proves.).

TRF_SPAIN

Corse, i hope that u enjoyed the race this weekend!! , cu at the carpet in two weeks!! i´m gonna race 1/12 and touring, probably with a TA04r
Just bad luck keep me off the Eurocup finals...well next year!

jcr

can anyone tell me what is the rear toe on the stock TA04R rear uprights?

I think it's 2 degrees but i don't know if that is right

Mantacav1

iTrader: (1)

Yup you were right tey ar 2 degree rear hubs

rccarracer

I think 5.9:1 in mod is a little strange! Now 7.38 is not to bad, I was running a 10x2 Fantom last week at around 7.6, but I was running my 12x2 Fantom at 7.1 or something recently, but I think 5.9 could do a some serious damage to a mod motor. That a stock motor ratio!!
But yeah your right about the cut out, my motors were a lot hotter in my Yok Special, compared to my 414M.