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Old 03-11-2002, 07:27 AM   #391
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Yes, the TA04 plate does not offer many gear ratio options.

However, I found that the best spur to use in modified is a 128t.

Using a 128/33, you will get almost the exact same gear ratio as a 124/32. And, it will fit. You can fit as low as a 30t with the 128 spur.
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Old 03-11-2002, 08:14 AM   #392
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My ball diff's outdrives wear out very fast. I've got wear marks about 2-3mm deep into them. Does tamiya make like hardened outdrives for the ball diffs? My front one way's outdrives see to handle the stress I put on it very well. The ball diff outdrives on the rear do not...

Would appreciate any tips to improve the life of the outdrives.

Thanks.

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Old 03-11-2002, 08:49 AM   #393
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Which set of outdrives are you using?? the lightweight ones?? I've been using them and havent noticed much wear in mine yet -and they've been in there for a few months...

The only other set that I know about are the shiny steel heavy as crud ones that come standard with the 04 ball diff
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Old 03-11-2002, 09:01 AM   #394
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Hi man!
I'm using the stock ones which come with the kit. Only replaced them about a month or so, and damn they are worn out. They still work, but can feel some kind of "transition" when i brake, as compared to brand new ones.

How are your running habits like? I run about 8 batteries a week on average, on 23T stockers and 14x2 mods. And they still wear bloody fast!

If the lightweight ones can handle the stress, guess I'll get them... my car's overweight still @ 1.6kg, last I checked
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Old 03-12-2002, 07:02 AM   #395
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Alvin - I'm only running a stock motor in mine (Reedy 27T MVP) but I race usually Sundays and the occassional Saturday nite...Also run the for "practice" on wednesday nites at my local track...So on average I could easily throw a dozen packs thru my car in the course of a week...No wear at all on mine

The lightweight diff halves WILL make a huge difference in your car's weight...A diff with the lightweight have weights about 1/2 of what the stock diff weights (no dont know the numbers)...So by using the Lightweight havles - you kinda loosing the weight of ONE complete diff
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Old 03-12-2002, 02:50 PM   #396
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In the US are Tamiya America Swopping chassis off the Altezza for the new shorter one? I live in the UK and have one of the first Altezzas and have not used it since i built it but would like the shorter chassis. Also if they do this is the chassis one of the newer ones with the slots for the batterys? Rick
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Old 03-13-2002, 06:47 AM   #397
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
In the US are Tamiya America Swopping chassis off the Altezza for the new shorter one? I live in the UK and have one of the first Altezzas and have not used it since i built it but would like the shorter chassis. Also if they do this is the chassis one of the newer ones with the slots for the batterys? Rick
Rick - I had Tamiya swap my original chassis for one of the new designs...But I dont know if they are still doing that or not...The 04R kits became unavailable for a while (i'm assuming while they were updating the chassis) - so I'm not sure what they would do for someone outside the US

Yes the replacement chassis does have battery slots, countersunk screws on the bottom, less screws to hold the top deck in, and appears to be thinner and lighter than the original
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Old 03-17-2002, 09:56 AM   #398
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Default tamiya bearings

i am wondering if many of you have experience with tamiya's bearings. i generally have only used tamiya's blue seal bearings, but their newer kits like the ta04-s, and ta04-r include a full set of the metal shielded bearings. i suspect that the new 414M2 will use these as well. i think tamiya does this to keep the cost of the kits down, but my concern is how do you find they compare to the blue ones in terms of smoothness, lifespan, and maintenance?

this might seem like a trivial question, but with the tc3, for example, the racer kit comes with rubber sealed bearings and they get gritty and wear out much faster than the teflon sealed bearings found in the factory team kit (which don't need much maintenance at all)...

thanks
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Old 03-17-2002, 02:43 PM   #399
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the bearings are fine. They have grease in them and need to be soaked in motor spray and then oiled. I feel the shielded ones are better you can maintain them very easy.
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Old 03-19-2002, 12:00 PM   #400
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Default where to get parts cheap?

hi all!
I just got a ta04R, and i was wondering which online shops sell parts for the cheapest?
Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2002, 09:19 PM   #401
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Default Carbon Reinforced Chassis conducts?!

Hey all,
Last night a very odd thing happened. I was using a set of batteries with the corally plugs on the batteries soldered on direct, i.e. no 90 degree bent battery bars. I noted sparks coming out when they touched the chassis. This is the carbon reinforced chassis which comes stock with the TA04R.

What happened was I plugged the -ve point of my esc in, the esc turned on!!! And the positive point was just touching the chassis. Needless to say I took out the battery fast. And it was hot too. Wierd since I Have been running side by sides unprotected, and they have the +/- unprotected and touching the chassis but no problems.

Just a thought if you have run time problems, I'm gonna run glass tape inside the chassis just in case.
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Old 03-22-2002, 10:26 PM   #402
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Carbon Fiber is an electric conductor! That's the reason.
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Old 03-22-2002, 11:38 PM   #403
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My chassis is the carbon reinforced tub, not the carbon fibre chassis plates but well yeah, there's carbon content I guess it'd conduct, but why wait till now
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Old 03-23-2002, 10:54 PM   #404
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Hi All,

New member here,

Just wanted to say hi.

I have a TAO3R with FRP chassis conversion, and a TAO4-Pro coming soon.

What the earlier posts say about Canadian versions vs. HK versions is absolutely horrible news!
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Old 03-24-2002, 02:57 AM   #405
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Welcome ISO----

Just as a procautionary step I covered the area on my chassis that would come in contact with the battery bars with 2 layers of electric tape.....


WELL GENTLEMEN, I am off to TCS... wish me luck, and a hot capachino....LOL
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