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Old 12-12-2001, 10:01 AM   #271
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Well Tamiya sells the short balls in steel and tower has them:

Tamiya short ballstuds

But I cannot find long ones anywhere.... guess I may have to retap the top of the steering posts and use titanium 4/40 units......
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Old 12-12-2001, 10:10 AM   #272
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Default New Tamiya parts

Tamiya Japan just announced aluminum center one-way, adjustable ball connectors for shock attachment and a set of the blue '04 hop ups.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/news/news/news0.htm
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Old 12-13-2001, 08:46 AM   #273
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Default Re: New Tamiya parts

Quote:
Originally posted by coolrcdad
Tamiya Japan just announced aluminum center one-way, adjustable ball connectors for shock attachment and a set of the blue '04 hop ups.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/news/news/news0.htm
Its a shame that Tamiya doesnt have a pic of the blue '04 parts

If they have a new aluminum center one-way...what was the original center one-way made out of????
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Old 12-13-2001, 09:47 AM   #274
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hi all, i can get those all those blue parts for a good price, or any other TA04 parts.. let me know if interested.. thanks.
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Old 12-15-2001, 08:07 AM   #275
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Default Battery connections

Dudes,
how are your batteries connected on your R? I am using side by side packs, and I have to have one wire longer than the other. The longer wire is to connect to the battery pole which is on the same side as the pinion/spur.

So this is kind of a drag as the wires occasionally snap and it's a chore to rebuild'em - I need new wires. Can you guys tell me what's good and what you're using?

TIA!

Regards,
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Old 12-15-2001, 07:39 PM   #276
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um ....... try corally plugs / aka banana plugs if u r not using them already..

the wires from ESC must be longer and there are no wires on the battries so saddle packs have more room in their fitting slot

and wire ur battries so that the bridge from side 1 to 2 is stright and use SEVERAL LAYERS of electrical tape to cover up the solder joints so it does not get SHORTED OUT....

example ...

+ - +
|
- + -
now u r using the bridge '|' to solder ur batts from side 1 to side 2

try using this
+ - +
/
- + -
( the / is wire from top '+' to lower left - insteed of stright)


and use electrical tape on one or both sides which is facing each other

i bought 2 sets of banana plugs ( 4 male 20 female) around 1 year ago but i have yet to use it .... hehe
curently i m on deans which is not too suitable on saddle packs

Last edited by imataquito; 12-15-2001 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 12-15-2001, 07:54 PM   #277
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the second graphic SHOULD be

like this

+ = - = +
/
- = + = -

the / wire should be soldered to opposite end of the + and - terminals so the wires should be STRIGHT in the middle when the packs are placed side by side .... and NOT BENDED in any way when its side by side

i have not tried this method yet ... but i figure it will work .. plz try it and tell me how it works ....

Last edited by imataquito; 12-15-2001 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 12-15-2001, 08:09 PM   #278
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if u r using this ........

LOOK AT PIC ...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sadle.jpg (3.0 KB, 158 views)
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Old 12-15-2001, 08:10 PM   #279
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change to this

look at pic ......
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sadle1.jpg (3.3 KB, 158 views)
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Old 12-15-2001, 11:00 PM   #280
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imaquito, you are using the carbon plate chassis correct? I'm still using a 99% stock TA04R with the carbon reinforced tub chassis, so I just cannot use saddle packs like you
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Old 12-16-2001, 05:47 PM   #281
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Use corally plugs for your batts. Solder them on two 90 deg battery bars on each end as seen in the picture. You can solder one end at a 45 deg angle so that it is easier to slide the pack into and out of the chassis.
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Old 12-17-2001, 03:22 AM   #282
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Thanks GKC.



Anyone tried the lightweight plastic diff joint? Are they durable? My 04's stock diff joints are beginning to wear out, there're grooves in t hem made by the universals. Wish there was something like the xray type diffs for our 04s.

~Alvin
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Old 12-17-2001, 04:11 AM   #283
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They are durable. I have used them for one stock race and one mod race plus a few practice runs and they are still holding up well. A bit on the costly side but a worthy upgrade. It lightens the drivetrain and improves acceleration and efficiency.
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Old 12-17-2001, 05:18 AM   #284
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Great! You are right they are quite costly. Right now I am trying to reduce the weight of my chassis. It weights in right now @ 1.6kg, looking for ways to reduce weight. Must also save up for a new ESC to get rid of my 120g G12

But first getting the carbon f/r shock towers. Been playing around with the camber link locations and shock locations, the plastic's pretty worn out

Thanks dude!

~Alvin
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Old 12-17-2001, 06:40 AM   #285
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I've been running them about 3 weeks now...Well over 20 runs with a stock motor and they are showing no signs of wear...

If you are looking for a weight reduction, then this is the place...I weights the diff with the lightweight outdrive against the stock diff and the stock diff was about 2x the weight of the new diff and the car - at least to me - has a notable improvement in speed and acceleration People at me track have been wondering what I've been doing to the car to make it that much faster in a short period of time...I think they are actually starting to respect Tamiya now
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