R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-12-2003, 08:04 PM   #1561
WC
Tech Master
 
WC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Global Citizen
Posts: 1,930
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sosidge
...I need a lot of steering - will this TA04S have that?
Out of the box, any Tamiya is usually a neutral understeerer...
But me too prefer a car that is just on the verge of oversteer.

Before you write off the 04, give these OPs a try:
1) racing front suspension (less castor, torque arms = stiffer front)
2) toe-in 2deg rear blocks

Car definitely more lively after those 2.

Soft springs in front, stiffer springs at back also help a bit.
Shocks usually with 60wt front, 40wt rear.
I generally try to run same tyres all 4 corners.
WC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2003, 07:29 AM   #1562
Tech Elite
 
lem2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: OC
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default QUESTION

Hi guys!!!! GReetings form Manila!!

Has any of you tried the the shock towers from the TA04-TRF?

Its already avalable locally and seems like it has more mounting options and is lower. The rear tower is a lot lower than the standard ones so flex is eliminated (using front shock tower in the rear so less flex)

Has any of you TAO4 guru's out there tried it, please give us a feedback. Around US$32 for the front,rear and top deck, just want to be sure if it will be worth it.

Peace!!
lem2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2003, 11:13 AM   #1563
Tech Master
 
psycho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,520
Default

I use the regular carbon shock towers and they definitely flex less and the extra shock mount position is a welcome addition up front. They still do flex a little, but it's far less than the stock ones. I found that I needed to mount the rear shock tower with a longer screw to keep it tight. The stock screws backed out on my car and the result was that the rear shock tower moved around quite a bit.
psycho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2003, 11:58 AM   #1564
Tech Elite
 
izzyracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,729
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default Re: QUESTION

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Hi guys!!!! GReetings form Manila!!

Has any of you tried the the shock towers from the TA04-TRF?

Its already avalable locally and seems like it has more mounting options and is lower. The rear tower is a lot lower than the standard ones so flex is eliminated (using front shock tower in the rear so less flex)

Has any of you TAO4 guru's out there tried it, please give us a feedback. Around US$32 for the front,rear and top deck, just want to be sure if it will be worth it.

Peace!!
The TA04 TRF Tower are indeed short. Which will limit your ride height to a max of 7mm. You're going to have to get Tamiya's new short springs if you wan't a lower set up.

Musta Manila!
__________________
Izzy
izzyracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2003, 10:51 AM   #1565
Tech Regular
 
jackhammer74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: maryland
Posts: 352
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
I use the regular carbon shock towers and they definitely flex less and the extra shock mount position is a welcome addition up front. They still do flex a little, but it's far less than the stock ones. I found that I needed to mount the rear shock tower with a longer screw to keep it tight. The stock screws backed out on my car and the result was that the rear shock tower moved around quite a bit.
I also use the regular CF shock towers and I had to do the same thing, use longer screws to keep them in place.
jackhammer74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2003, 01:37 AM   #1566
WC
Tech Master
 
WC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Global Citizen
Posts: 1,930
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

I find that some guys have superglued the shock tower to the diff case tab...
WC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2003, 05:31 AM   #1567
Tech Master
 
chef88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Annapolis MD
Posts: 1,300
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jackhammer74
A couple of race weekends ago I was talking with one of the fast guys at my track, we were discussing setups and what not, I complemented him on how hooked up his car was, he told me that he was trying something new, something he'd seen the fast guys at RCO in PA. do with the TA04. He was running white springs in the back and yellow upfront, the best guess he could give me for shock fluid was 60w upfront and 40w rear, it seemed to mee whites would be too stiff in the rear, but he said it works and actually like I said, I saw it work. Has anybody else seen this or tried it?
I have always used white springs in the rear, RCO or TCS. like you thought it might be to stiff. I thought that soft springs would give more traction, but the opposite actually seems to give this car more traction in the rear.
chef88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2003, 08:34 AM   #1568
Tech Regular
 
jackhammer74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: maryland
Posts: 352
Default

thanks for the info chef88, I'm going to try it this weekend.
jackhammer74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2003, 12:04 PM   #1569
Tech Elite
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Secret Underground Laboratory
Posts: 2,353
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default White Springs in rear

Just remember that the answer here is not a universal one:

* Harder springs work well when you have some droop and the yellow or red sway bar. Less droop, the blue bar, and a hard spring makes the car darty and loose in back.
* Also depends on which tire and insert you're using. If the tire is hard and stuffed, the car will react more quickly. Chef uses foam inserts and his tires are kinda squishy, so the hard spring works for him (and quite well, I might add!).
* Don't forget camber- very critical on these cars, especially on the rear, depending on how much suspension travel you are using.
* Finally, there is also the rear toe component. The less rear toe you use, the more sensitive the chassis is to small rear spring changes. More toe, however, will reduce corner speed.

As in all things R/C, experimentation is the key to developing an understanding of how YOUR car will react to YOUR driving style!
__________________
I've never lost.
I've just been a little bit behind when time ran out...

RED DOT MOTORS- Fastest Titan 12T and silver can 540 motors in the known galaxy!
rccardr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2003, 12:03 PM   #1570
Tech Regular
 
jackhammer74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: maryland
Posts: 352
Default

Thanks for the input rccardr, I already had the red swaybar in the rear and some proline V-rages on with foam inserts just for practice, once I read your post I left the tires on. Upfront I ran the yellow spring, yellow bar combo, however I noticed a lot of understeer so I switched to blue springs, that helped out some but it still has some understeer.
For camber I'm running -1 deg all around, and I'm running the 2 deg hub carriers in the rear.
The car handled pretty good, the back seemed very well planted, something I'm not used to, the only problem I had like I said before was the understeer, should I switch to the blue swaybar upfront?
jackhammer74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2003, 10:01 PM   #1571
Tech Master
 
psycho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,520
Default

jackhammer74

I would suggest that you not run Proline tires. My experience with them is that they overheat on all but the coolest track surfaces (S2 and S3) or have no grip on any surface (H13.) There are many good tires out there that are the same price and will work a lot better than Proline. I usually run Pit Shimizu tires, but also use Take-Off. Many guys swear by Sorex. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the three. Make sure you pick the tire that is appropriate for the track temps that you see. In my area, we usually run 30's or 36's since we see track temps up to 140 degrees F and usually have a lot of grip. To keep it easy, run an insert that has minimal air gap like the HPI molded ones. Green is a great choice. If you want to make the tires act a little softer, go with a softer insert. I usually run HPI green when grip is high and move to a Yokomo medium insert when I need the same tire hardness, but want to get a little more grip.

One of the key settings on any car is droop. It is essential to getting the right amount of steering. If you car is pushing, start by removing the front andd rear swaybars and adding some droop. I would suggest that you run 3mm of droop up front and 5mm in the rear to start with. The car should have a lot of steering with those settings. The easiest way (imo) to measure droop is to take your ride height guage and measure the ride height of the car with tires on. Say you're running 5mm ride height, for example. Then, use a hobby knife of something thin like that and gently lift the front of the chassis from the very center of the front bumper and pay attention to when the tire begins to lift off the workbench. Once you determine the point that the tire begins to lift, measure the "ride height" again. For example, say it's 8mm. Subtract the raised height from normal resting height and you have the droop. In this case, it would be 3mm. Repeat this process on the rear, then duplicate the setting on the opposite side of the car. I use a standard Integy droop guage to make sure both sides are the same by measuring the distance between the lowest part of the suspension arm and adjusting both sides to be the same, but you can use a ruler or something like that.

Swaybars are used to control droop and reduce chassis roll. The stiffness of the bar determines how much the two sides of the suspension are joined together. IMO, the sway bars on the TA04 do very little, especially in the rear. You can feel the effect if you go from no bar to the blue bar, but it's pretty subtle. You only want to play around with swaybars if you already have enough or too much steering. Start with the rear and if you still need to tame down the chassis roll, move to the front.

You can also get more steering by adding camber. On my TA04, I usually run 2.5 degrees of camber up front and 2 degrees in the rear and I run the camber links in the stock position. Check where the wear pattern is on the tire and adjust the camber so it is toward the middle. I run a lot of camber due to the technical tracks that I race on and I also like to run a really hard tire and use the excess camber to put some heat in the tires! I lilke the backend of my car to be a little loose so I can break the backend loose when I need to carry a lot of speed into a turn and hold someone off from passing me. You definitely do steer with both ends of the car, so you might try stiffening up the rear a bit to get the backend to slide a little. If you use good quality tires and use the correct compound for your track conditions, the backend will come around in a very controlled manner.

Hopefully that give you some things to think about!
psycho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2003, 11:12 AM   #1572
Tech Master
 
chef88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Annapolis MD
Posts: 1,300
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
I finished building the car around 1pm, started at 1am, worked till 4:30am, slept till 8:00am and only took 2 30 min breaks I must say I am extremly pleased with the quality of the car and the parts used, I did however swap out as many phyllips head screws
with Associated 4-40 stock as possible. I will have pics alittle later on.

Does anyone have any setup tips for the TA04, the manual covers nothing at all to help it's setup.
Got you covered. RCO does have good prices on everything.
GT3 class runs 6 minutes at RCO. They invented the class for the TCS. TCS runs five minutes. You need narrow A tires with HPI
soft inserts. blue springs up front. Whites in the rear. roll out
from 32 to 34. regular diffs. that should be a good starting point.
MJ
chef88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2003, 07:16 AM   #1573
Tech Regular
 
jackhammer74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: maryland
Posts: 352
Default

Thanks for the info psycho, the only reason I have those proline v-rages is because they came with my TC3. I usually run yokomo slicks (cheap, decent quality) or HPI belted x-patterns (decent grip, good wear). My LHS carries the Take-off and the Sorex, but they never order that many so it's hard to find what you're looking for, unless you're there when the shipment comes in.
Thanks for the trick to set the droop, I'll definitely do that.
I just want to dial in a little more steering, I finally got the back to stay planted at the end of the high speed sections, it'll only come loose intentionally not unexpectedly like it used to.
jackhammer74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2003, 10:47 AM   #1574
Tech Master
 
psycho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,520
Default

Tires make all the difference in the world. They are the coursest adjustment you can make to the setup. I would definitely try and scoop up a set of Take-Off CS27's at least, if you can. You'll like those a lot better than the HPI or Yokomo tires.

Keep working at it and you'll get it to handle the way you want it to. My car is pretty dialled now, but I've been racing it for almost a year. It's still not as fast as my XXX-S, but I think there's another few 10ths in it that I haven't found yet.
psycho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2003, 06:13 PM   #1575
Tech Elite
 
lem2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: OC
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default My first win!!

It was sugary sweet and dribling with honey!!!!
Yes, it was only in the B-main stock but I usually finish last in my field!!! hehehe

Did some major mods in my car but reading thru this thread before the race helped a lot--- like white in the rear, yellow in front, no sway bars in the rear. and I changed the red sway bars in the front to blue since someone said that you should go stiffer in the swaybars since the red ones does not offer any help!

It was great to be able to win with the other shaft drive cars there!!! hehehehe Still love my TC3 but will stay with my TA04-R for the meantime!!
Peace and happy racing!!!
lem2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TITC 2006 - Woohoo! :D Kenneth Tan Singapore R/C Racers 13 02-23-2006 07:48 AM
TA04R for sale sdd6131 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 01-11-2005 06:12 PM
Tamiya Ta04r superk R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 08-15-2003 10:09 AM
TA04R minicooper R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 06-24-2003 04:53 PM
ta04r f/s drool monkey R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 3 05-27-2002 08:39 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:18 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net