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Old 06-21-2003, 09:14 AM   #1486
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I'm a regular on rctech so I hope you don't mind me mentioning that I have a great TA04 "better than standard R" up for bid on eBay. I'm getting out of Tamiya so this is a chance for someone to get a greatly hopped up, TCS legal warrior for a lot less than I have put into it. Details are here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ory=44022&rd=1
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Old 06-21-2003, 01:56 PM   #1487
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Default Re: Re: Eletric problems

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Originally posted by izzyracer
Clean up your wiring, make sure nothing is touching the chassis and uppper plate. Triple your doublesided tape on your reciever and esc. make sure they are no expose wires. do you have the proper resistors on your motor?
do you know if your belt is skipping. on my 414mII it would really freak out when it skips. but once i installd my diff it stopped. if it is adjust the tensioner or replace the belt

the found that the tensioner on my 414mII doesnt really help. you have to get the square one to make a diffrenct top/bottom
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Old 06-21-2003, 03:34 PM   #1488
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Default Re: Re: Eletric problems

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Originally posted by izzyracer
Clean up your wiring, make sure nothing is touching the chassis and uppper plate. Triple your doublesided tape on your reciever and esc. make sure they are no expose wires. do you have the proper resistors on your motor?
My wiring is clean I may look into the belt slipping because when I didn't have the gear mess just right it glitch even more.
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Old 06-21-2003, 03:38 PM   #1489
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i bet thats it

exactly the same thign happend to me. try using the tensioner first. then replace the belt.
it happens the most with one-ways. are you using a one-way?
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Old 06-21-2003, 03:40 PM   #1490
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the top poist was mine i accidently used my bro's account
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Old 06-21-2003, 10:05 PM   #1491
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rowdyrj

One thing that you might check is the battery tray part of the chassis. The graphite chassis on the R kit will conduct electricity if you're running side by side packs. It took me a couple race days to figure out that was what was causing my problems. I ended up picking up a teflon sheet that you use to protect the bottom of a carbon fiber chassis plate. I trimmed strips to line the inside edges of the battery tray where the battery bars touch. If you have any metal that can touch the posts that stick up, either put some electrical tape around the posts or leave enough teflon strip to cover the post so the battery leads don't touch. Hopefully that made sense. Basically you don't want any part of the metal on the battery pack to touch the chassis.
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Old 06-22-2003, 12:15 AM   #1492
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hey guys
i know that this topic has been touch for many times and sorry to ask the same old q again...
wat is the right gearing for a stock motor such as the P2k2 pro ? my friend told me that tamiya recommend a gearing of 112/45 for the Type RR motor, i know that the type RR motor is 23t but isnt that abit too high because i heard that most ppl gear around 36 to 38 with 120t.
i've heard that you should gear so that the car tops acceleration just b4 the corner at the end of the straight of your track but i'm wondering how is this possible ?? i.e. let just said you have a straight of 35m or around 100 feet, i find that the throttle trigger will be at its max b4 the car even reaches the half way mark so how could you gear so that the car is still accelerating at the end of the straight...
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Old 06-22-2003, 08:20 AM   #1493
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Default Re: Eletric problems

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Originally posted by rowdyrj
I'm having a glitching problem in my 04R and I can't get it to stop. I've change receivers from AM to FM servo's and motors the car still glitches. I 've mounted the receiver on the opposite side of the servo with the antanna wire coming out the middle of the car not all the way in the back by the motor and it still glitches
Just a thought. Did you check your motor? A worn comm and brushes can cause a lot of interference, if it's been a while, cut your comm, replace the brushes and clean it out the whole thing with motor spray.
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Old 06-22-2003, 08:41 AM   #1494
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Default Re: Re: Eletric problems

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Just a thought. Did you check your motor? A worn comm and brushes can cause a lot of interference, if it's been a while, cut your comm, replace the brushes and clean it out the whole thing with motor spray.
That was one of the first things that I did. I even took the motor, servo, speed control, and receiver out of the Tamiya and put put it in my MR-4TC Pro and it worked fine in that car.
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Old 06-22-2003, 11:18 AM   #1495
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Well it was worth the shot, got to cover all the bases.
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Old 06-22-2003, 02:45 PM   #1496
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Quote:
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Well it was worth the shot, got to cover all the bases.
Next I will try the spacer that came on the 03F that fit between the motor and motor mount to eliminate metal to metal contact.
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Old 06-22-2003, 03:13 PM   #1497
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Quote:
Originally posted by zoombie
hey guys
i know that this topic has been touch for many times and sorry to ask the same old q again...
wat is the right gearing for a stock motor such as the P2k2 pro ? my friend told me that tamiya recommend a gearing of 112/45 for the Type RR motor, i know that the type RR motor is 23t but isnt that abit too high because i heard that most ppl gear around 36 to 38 with 120t.
i've heard that you should gear so that the car tops acceleration just b4 the corner at the end of the straight of your track but i'm wondering how is this possible ?? i.e. let just said you have a straight of 35m or around 100 feet, i find that the throttle trigger will be at its max b4 the car even reaches the half way mark so how could you gear so that the car is still accelerating at the end of the straight...

112/45 is a little too much. Even if it was 2 times the size of the Tamiya track that would be too much.

If you ever are looking for a standard starting spot with stock or mild mods 120/35 is good. Usually on short or medium tracks. If you need more speed you can easily go up from there. Usually 35-39 is good at just about any track. 40 and above I rarely do unless the track is huge.

When you get comfortable with the car usually the rpm should max out at about 1/2 to 2/3rds down the longest straight. If it is just before the corner you are too over geared. One thing to think about gearing is you can gear your car to go wickedly fast down the straights but if you are too tall you will loose corner punch and your lap times suffer.

Coop
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Old 06-22-2003, 09:27 PM   #1498
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Greetings: I've been wandering around this thread to pick some tips before planting my TRF on the ground. Thanks guys! ...lastly, I've been through a Yoke Special, TC3 (Team) and a XXXS GP and I must say that the build on the TA04-TRF is MUCH better than the rest... running it - well, we'll soon find out.
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Old 06-23-2003, 06:50 AM   #1499
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Quote:
Originally posted by zoombie
hey guys
i know that this topic has been touch for many times and sorry to ask the same old q again...
wat is the right gearing for a stock motor such as the P2k2 pro ? my friend told me that tamiya recommend a gearing of 112/45 for the Type RR motor, i know that the type RR motor is 23t but isnt that abit too high because i heard that most ppl gear around 36 to 38 with 120t.
Total gearing of 5.4 is about right for the RR. Everyone runs these crazy ratios on 23T over here. Aim for around a total ratio of 5.2-5.9...the motor will come off HOT but the brushes will not be burnt...that is when you know you have over done it!
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Old 06-23-2003, 01:49 PM   #1500
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Hey, is anyone running Protoform's Stratus 2.0 body? Well of course everyone is.

Anyways, I'm just curious as to how you guys are compensating for the fact that the TA04's wheelbase is shorter than the wheelbase indicated on the body. Are you ignoring the guide lines?

I've cut mine to fit the front wheels, leave the rear looking like crap.
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