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Old 07-15-2011, 03:35 PM   #31
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I find the opposite. As the gears turn and the oil is "churned", it becomes easier to spin. It is easier to spin something already in motion than from a standstill. Try it with your hands. There's initial resistance on the outdrives but once you get them spinning it is easier IMO.
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Old 07-15-2011, 03:46 PM   #32
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Without a rolling road a computer and a high speed camera it will alway be speculation on what does what. In the very crude (so almost certainly flawed) test that I carried out using a cordless drill with different torque settings, oil became easier to move when it was already moving ( not able to test rapid changes in rotational direction ) but I have a "Non Newtonian putty" that becomes harder to move the faster you try to move it. It did become easier to move when it got quiet warm but during racing it has never got warm enough to alter its viscosity, might be a different matter when the temps drops in the winter.

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Old 07-15-2011, 06:47 PM   #33
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Hi, I meant so say more difficult to churn during quick acceleration rather than when in constant speed.

For example, from a standing still, stirring paint slowly is easy. But trying to stir paint very quickly from a standing still, it is hard to initially do. Only when moving does it become easier.

Hope I am making sense

p.s. For me, gear diff with oil/putty, in fwd, very hard to drive but quick corner exit speed. In 4wd easy to drive.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:51 PM   #34
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A kneadable eraser plus a dab of oil for lube (plastic gears) works great
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:24 PM   #35
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THANKS ALOT buddy!!!!!
I just ordered 2 tubs of this stuff as well. I've some experimenting to do. I've got different shit being shipped from all over!!! LMAO
How'd it go between the OFNA and the stuff from badhorsie? Which one is thicker?
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:15 PM   #36
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I used 500000 wt in front gear diff of my WX and it is working well and easy to drive compared to a spool. Havent try the putty yet but from what i've read in this thread, almost everybody favours oil than putty. The problem is after a few practice runs (on different days) the rotation seems to be smoother and it's pretty hard to drive the car. I think it's time to service the gear diff and if you guys don't mind, do you clean everything inside the gear diff with cleaners or simply wipe the old oil and just top it with the new oil?
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:34 PM   #37
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A kneadable eraser plus a dab of oil for lube (plastic gears) works great
Some funny shit right there!!
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:01 AM   #38
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I now have a gear diff to try with 500,000 weight oil up front. I will let you guys know after the weekend the results comparing to a spool.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:25 PM   #39
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I now have a gear diff to try with 500,000 weight oil up front. I will let you guys know after the weekend the results comparing to a spool.
what brand of 500k oil do you use? i couldnt find it in stormer hobbies
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:35 PM   #40
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what brand of 500k oil do you use? i couldnt find it in stormer hobbies
Kyosho, got it from a main. I found it best to put a little 200k in the diff first and work it into the gears. The 500k is so thick it doesnt get into all the small spots and wont feel very tight.
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:03 PM   #41
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So far I only know of 3 x 500,000 weight oils. They are Kyosho, Traxxas & the rcmarket item.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:09 AM   #42
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Are you all using the original composite gears when you use putty/oil mix? or do you change for metal ones?
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:07 PM   #43
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I use lucas oil engine oil stabilizer... Have you seen those displays at autozone with the gears you crank by hand. Kinda thick stuff, like maple syrup, but very smooth. My car is much easier to drive and more consistent using gear diff up front instead of a spool. Lucas oil up front, 200,000 in the rear
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:59 PM   #44
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Hi there, this is one for the guys on this thread using the 500000 wt oil rather than the gum in the diff. Very simply, how far do you fill the diff casing when running in stock classes - 21.5 & 13.5?.

I have a Spec-R diff, and I fill it as per the build instructions at the moment, but should I add more oil to create a stiffer effect?. the only reason that I ask is that I was thinking that adding more oil of this heavy sort of viscosity may pressurise the diff and possibly split the casing or deform it?.

Any thoughts on the matter very much appreciated.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:42 PM   #45
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Cleaning putty or the Racer's Edge diff lock is definitely a lot thicker/stiffer than 500,000cst oil.

I am running the Racer's Edge diff lock along with a few drops of 40wt shock oil (just as a lubricant) in the front of my T3 2012. It is the stock Xray gear diff. The only thing I don't trust is the aluminum outdrives when running with this setup, so I am switching to the spring steel outdrives.

I must say it's quite consistent and makes the car easier to drive.
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