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Old 01-18-2012, 06:46 PM   #256
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I can't remember what you said before, but any news on getting your app available for blackberrys? Just curious. A fellow racer I showed the app to wants it bad, but only has a blackberry phone.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:49 AM   #257
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I can't remember what you said before, but any news on getting your app available for blackberrys? Just curious. A fellow racer I showed the app to wants it bad, but only has a blackberry phone.
I am waiting to see how well rim supports the running of android apps.
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:35 PM   #258
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hi Martin

having had the xxx main book you wrote, i havent had the need to buy the app version (that and i dont have a ipad or phone that can run it)

a few pages back you talked about changing sweep angles and what it did.

sweep is something i havent not tried, but couldnt find it in the book, can you explain how i would adjust sweep ?

not having a 411 the adjustments you mentioned i could not relate to on my tc6.

am about to go to a big race in a few weeks with a control tire (sweeps OGs) and no matter what i have tired, i can not get enough rear traction, haveing refered to the good book, i have got my car a whole lot better but not at a leave i think it should be.

here in New Zealand we cannot use traction compound, so i gotta do it the traditional way



thank you for your time

Ed

Last edited by Edwin Pibal; 01-25-2012 at 01:37 PM. Reason: cant spell
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:04 PM   #259
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Originally Posted by Edwin Pibal View Post
hi Martin

having had the xxx main book you wrote, i havent had the need to buy the app version (that and i dont have a ipad or phone that can run it)

a few pages back you talked about changing sweep angles and what it did.

sweep is something i havent not tried, but couldnt find it in the book, can you explain how i would adjust sweep ?

not having a 411 the adjustments you mentioned i could not relate to on my tc6.

am about to go to a big race in a few weeks with a control tire (sweeps OGs) and no matter what i have tired, i can not get enough rear traction, haveing refered to the good book, i have got my car a whole lot better but not at a leave i think it should be.

here in New Zealand we cannot use traction compound, so i gotta do it the traditional way



thank you for your time

Ed
A friend of mine moved to New Zealand recently from Canada, perhaps I should too..given you don't use traction compound.

First, I am glad my book is able to help you. Having said that there is more content in the app than in the book, but if you don't have an iPad, iPhone, iTouch or Android device, then no you can't use the app....sorry.

If you are trying to get more rear grip then adding sweep in the front is not something you will want to do as it will increase steering. To get more rear grip try some the following (if you have not already).
  1. More rear toe-in. Like 3.0 to 3.5 degrees.
  2. Raise the rear roll center.
  3. run more rear camber between 2.0 or even 2.5 degrees.
  4. If you are running a stiff spring in the rear...try something a little softer but not too soft. If you go too soft it will push on the way into the corner and snap oversteer in the middle of the corner off.
  5. try adding more flex in the upper deck by using less screws to hold down the upper deck.
  6. if you are running anti-squat...remove it.
  7. run a thinner rear swaybar


Cheers.
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:34 PM   #260
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Hi Martin,

When you said "Raise the rear roll center" it meens that we have to remove shim on the inboard upper link or add shim on the outer upper link ?
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:49 PM   #261
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Hey Martin- I will have to check this app out. You going to this years Reedy Race at Norcal hobbies?
-john
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:14 PM   #262
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Hi Martin,

When you said "Raise the rear roll center" it meens that we have to remove shim on the inboard upper link or add shim on the outer upper link ?
Yes, also you could raise the lower link (hinge pin). If you raise the lower link, you can raise the upper link or shorten the upper arm to account for the change in camber gain, and still have raised the roll center. As long as you don't shim the upper arm to much.
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:14 PM   #263
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Originally Posted by Manu_05' View Post
Hi Martin,

When you said "Raise the rear roll center" it meens that we have to remove shim on the inboard upper link or add shim on the outer upper link ?
yes..that is correct. or raise inboard hinge pin. In other words, anything that brings closer together the inboard upper link connection point and the inboard hinge pin on the suspension arm.
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:15 PM   #264
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Hey Martin- I will have to check this app out. You going to this years Reedy Race at Norcal hobbies?
-john
If I get invited into the Invite class again, then yes. I love the reedy race format, with every round being an actual race.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:43 PM   #265
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
A friend of mine moved to New Zealand recently from Canada, perhaps I should too..given you don't use traction compound.

First, I am glad my book is able to help you. Having said that there is more content in the app than in the book, but if you don't have an iPad, iPhone, iTouch or Android device, then no you can't use the app....sorry.

If you are trying to get more rear grip then adding sweep in the front is not something you will want to do as it will increase steering. To get more rear grip try some the following (if you have not already).
  1. More rear toe-in. Like 3.0 to 3.5 degrees.
  2. Raise the rear roll center.
  3. run more rear camber between 2.0 or even 2.5 degrees.
  4. If you are running a stiff spring in the rear...try something a little softer but not too soft. If you go too soft it will push on the way into the corner and snap oversteer in the middle of the corner off.
  5. try adding more flex in the upper deck by using less screws to hold down the upper deck.
  6. if you are running anti-squat...remove it.
  7. run a thinner rear swaybar


Cheers.
Hi Martin

thank you for the reply thats plenty to try thanks!, i plan on getting a iPhone sooner than later.

a silly question about the roll centres if i may.

the tc6 link mounts are like this x = mounts on the shock tower

xx xx x x xx xx
xx xx
xx xx

currently mine are set like this 0 = where ball joints are

x0 x0 x x 0x 0x
xx xx
xx xx

when you say raise the roll centres where would i go too ? the inter outer top hole ? till now i have been useing the inner most long link and have liked it, but for these tires it doesnt work

or should i shart by bringing the bottom suspention arm mount up abit ?

thanks for your time

Ed

ps, feel free to come over to New Zealand! we would love to have you here!

Last edited by Edwin Pibal; 01-25-2012 at 09:47 PM. Reason: crap, the formatting doesnt stay
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:20 PM   #266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwin Pibal View Post
Hi Martin

thank you for the reply thats plenty to try thanks!, i plan on getting a iPhone sooner than later.

a silly question about the roll centres if i may.

the tc6 link mounts are like this x = mounts on the shock tower

xx xx x x xx xx
xx xx
xx xx

currently mine are set like this 0 = where ball joints are

x0 x0 x x 0x 0x
xx xx
xx xx

when you say raise the roll centres where would i go too ? the inter outer top hole ? till now i have been useing the inner most long link and have liked it, but for these tires it doesnt work

or should i shart by bringing the bottom suspention arm mount up abit ?

thanks for your time

Ed

ps, feel free to come over to New Zealand! we would love to have you here!
Hi.

I normally like long upper links because it makes the car feel more consistent through the corner. Having said that I would try going down one row on the shock tower and keep the upper link as long as possible. If the car feels twitchy then go back to the top row, keep the link as long as possible, and add 1mm to 2mm spacers on the outboard between the upright and the ball stud.

Cheers.
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:28 PM   #267
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Hi.

I normally like long upper links because it makes the car feel more consistent through the corner. Having said that I would try going down one row on the shock tower and keep the upper link as long as possible. If the car feels twitchy then go back to the top row, keep the link as long as possible, and add 1mm to 2mm spacers on the outboard between the upright and the ball stud.

Cheers.
Thank you Martin

Went and bought a iPhone last night and bought the app

Was just excuse I needed

On the subject of longer links, so if I put the link to the out side hole on the rear toe block this would help ?

Thanks again

Ed
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:40 PM   #268
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Originally Posted by Edwin Pibal View Post
Thank you Martin

Went and bought a iPhone last night and bought the app

Was just excuse I needed

On the subject of longer links, so if I put the link to the out side hole on the rear toe block this would help ?

Thanks again

Ed
somehow I don't think you needed the excuse LOL....but happy to help.

In terms of the rear toe block as you call it (I am assuming you are referring to the rear upright as I call it ), then yes...going to the outer hole will make the rear link longer. By the way, a longer link in the front of the car will help make the car feel smoother. A longer link in the rear may make the car feel smoother, but it will also take away some rear grip. So given you are trying to get more rear grip, you might want to go with the long front link and a shorter rear link. The shorter rear link will give you more grip as it raises the roll center as well it gives you more camber gain under compression. You could try both the suggestions I gave you for the rear link and see which one you like better in terms of feel and also rear grip levels.

Cheers.
Martin.
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Old 01-26-2012, 05:49 PM   #269
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Hi Martin

have added it to my"changes to try" list in the app

thanks again

Ed
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:55 AM   #270
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Hi Martin

have added it to my"changes to try" list in the app

thanks again

Ed
Excellent! Let me know how the changes work out for you.
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