R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-04-2011, 06:03 AM   #1
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 16
Default Schumacher belts - How do you know what to buy?

I have a Schumacher MI1 and MI3 here atm and the main belt on the MI1 looks like it's seen better days.

I want to buy front/rear replacements for both of them but eBay has hundreds of tooth combinations and I dont have a clue what belts I would need?

How do you calculate this? Or how do I know what belts to get?

Many thanks,
Simon.
Fakirr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 06:09 AM   #2
Tech Fanatic
 
lochness42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: London, UK
Posts: 824
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Best bet is to look on Schumacher site to car specific spares list to find needed part

for Mi3:
http://www.racing-cars.com/scp/Old_C...rtname1=partno

for Mi1:
http://www.racing-cars.com/scp/New_C...rtname1=partno
__________________
Pavel Balint
| Schumacher racing-cars.com | RCSGraphicWorx.co.uk | Cat K1 | Cougar SV2 & SVR |
Schumacher cars build videos http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=9780E62C20A0EC4F
lochness42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 06:11 AM   #3
Tech Fanatic
 
lochness42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: London, UK
Posts: 824
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Just to clarify why there are black and grey belts - black are stiffer and are used mostly for modified where grey ones are softer and cause less drag so they are used in stock classes. OFC black belts survive more than grey belts
__________________
Pavel Balint
| Schumacher racing-cars.com | RCSGraphicWorx.co.uk | Cat K1 | Cougar SV2 & SVR |
Schumacher cars build videos http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=9780E62C20A0EC4F
lochness42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 06:17 AM   #4
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 16
Default

Many thanks dude, I thought they would have depended on what spur you were running.

My MI1 is a drift/bashing car for I'd be better with a gray belt? It only has a 21x2 drift motor in it.

My MI3 has a Orion Vortex 3.5 brushless in it, so I'd be better with a black one for it?



I'm in no rish as I've fried my ESC in the Mi3 and i'm struggling to get another within my budget, paydays 16 days away
Fakirr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 06:25 AM   #5
Tech Fanatic
 
lochness42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: London, UK
Posts: 824
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I belive Mi1 has only rear belt in grey available. I would get in your place black belts - they'll last more and for bashing and drift they'll be better. Grey belts are great if you are trying to achieve super low friction transmission to get most out of the stock motor which has only limited power.

Anyway belts are car dependent. At least I haven't seen different lengths of belt for one Schumacher car.
__________________
Pavel Balint
| Schumacher racing-cars.com | RCSGraphicWorx.co.uk | Cat K1 | Cougar SV2 & SVR |
Schumacher cars build videos http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=9780E62C20A0EC4F
lochness42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 08:15 AM   #6
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 16
Default

Ah, just there were a number of belts on eBay stating ''264T belt'', ''170T belt'' etc.

I'll just stick to buying off Schumacher themselves to save any hassle.


Completely off topic but from reading your signiture you seem to be pretty clued up about RC. If I were to buy a cheap Hobbyking ESC to run my 3.5T Orion brushless motor, how do I work out what Amp ESC I need?

It's just as a stopgap until I can afford a Tekin RS.
Fakirr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 08:34 AM   #7
Tech Master
 
locked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,758
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

You won't be able to use a Tekin RS with a 3.5T motor. Even with the RS Pro model, 3.5T will overheat the ESC pretty quickly.

In a 4wd TC I wouldn't go below 7.5T for the RS and maybe 5.5 for the Pro. Even then it would be questionable on a warm day.

Tekin works fantastic for the boosted stock classes. Not known to be great for Mod.

LRP, Speedpassion, GM, Nosram, ORCA. Check out those companies for their mod capable ESCs. Even with them, 3.5 is pushing it.
__________________
Dave Locke
Team PerformanceHobbies.ca | ORCA RC | Bodies by Brandon | Team Meeting
XRAY T4'15 x2 | XRAY XB4 | XRAY XB8E | XRAY XB8
locked is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 09:13 AM   #8
Tech Fanatic
 
lochness42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: London, UK
Posts: 824
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fakirr View Post
Ah, just there were a number of belts on eBay stating ''264T belt'', ''170T belt'' etc.

I'll just stick to buying off Schumacher themselves to save any hassle.


Completely off topic but from reading your signiture you seem to be pretty clued up about RC. If I were to buy a cheap Hobbyking ESC to run my 3.5T Orion brushless motor, how do I work out what Amp ESC I need?

It's just as a stopgap until I can afford a Tekin RS.
Do you really want to run 3.5T? By your talk I'm not absolutely convinced that you can handle it (maybe I'm wrong). I would get something that is common class round your place.
Anyway if you want to stick with that motor - 120A Xerun is what you want. Recommend to put in 0 degree blinky software - will be still plenty fast and you won't push it as much. Fan on speedo all the time.

Edit: even with 120A Xerun 3.5T is on the edge by looking on specs listed on Hobbywing page. It's lowest you can go with that speedo and it's mentioned with 6 NiHM cells, with lipo it will be probably too much as they generate more power.
__________________
Pavel Balint
| Schumacher racing-cars.com | RCSGraphicWorx.co.uk | Cat K1 | Cougar SV2 & SVR |
Schumacher cars build videos http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=9780E62C20A0EC4F
lochness42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 02:34 PM   #9
Tech Master
 
Brokin Racing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 1,281
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fakirr View Post
I have a Schumacher MI1 and MI3 here atm and the main belt on the MI1 looks like it's seen better days.

I want to buy front/rear replacements for both of them but eBay has hundreds of tooth combinations and I dont have a clue what belts I would need?

How do you calculate this? Or how do I know what belts to get?

Many thanks,
Simon.
Get the OE belts, you'll get a good price from A Main Hobbies
__________________
Xray - LRP - PF - Futaba -
"Retired from Racing"
Brokin Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2011, 06:23 AM   #10
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 16
Default

I have absolutely no need for the Orion 3.5T motor, It just came with my chassis and has never been used. I'd be happy with a 9.5T Brushless tbh.

I'll order a few parts here and stick that motor in the forsale section or eBay and get a 9.5T package.
Fakirr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
NEW XRAY T2 ddesros2 Electric On-Road 5873 02-12-2012 06:56 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:42 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net