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Old 06-11-2011, 12:31 PM   #31
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I still don't think you can go real wrong regardless what you buy, my advice is download all the build manuals, look them over in detail, decide what you like, I buy based off what things look like to work on these days, you spend more time wrenching that driving in the end...
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Old 06-12-2011, 04:12 AM   #32
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TQ guy
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Old 06-12-2011, 05:54 AM   #33
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Have driven a few TC's like the T3,TRF416X Sakura Zero,Top Photon and TM E4RS
Out of the box with the box setup the T3 and the Photon did a very good job at my local track.
The T3 can get a good beating without failiure but i find the pivot point in the C-hub a bit weak.
They tend to wear out quickly and get loose.
Perhaps this is due to building error as it wasn't my car i drove there, but this was what i noticed when i drove it.
The Photon is more fragile in my opinion but is a overall nice car to drive.
It is very smooth but the older versions have some issues with the plastic parts breaking.
Parts i hear are expensive in the states?
The TRF416X i have now runs nicely with stock setup and gear dif but has a very limited window where it is good.
When you hit it's sweet spot and is a bullet to drive.
The parts for Tamiya are a bit hard to get true the LHS here as we don't have a distributer in Holland and everything has to come from Germany or the usual online shops or fleebay(or from 3racing).
Same goes for the Sakura because this car is almost the same as the TRF416 only parts are a lot cheaper and untill now i only broke 1 steering hub and a rear belt.
The Team Magic is a car that drives easely almost everywhere with some mod's from K-factory en perhaps Yodog
It is very quickly on a tight tech circuit even with the basic setup but unfortionatly not many people stock parts for this car
These are my findings so far.
Didn't have the pleasure to drive the TRF417 or the TC6 tho, so can't comment on that one.

regards Roy
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:11 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
The T3 can get a good beating without failiure but i find the pivot point in the C-hub a bit weak.
They tend to wear out quickly and get loose.
Might explain why my 2 year old Xrays seem quite sloppy , quite a bit of play.
They may be almost unbreakable but... Parts that wear can be quite expensive to replace. Diff outdrives etc etc.
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:58 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Might explain why my 2 year old Xrays seem quite sloppy , quite a bit of play.
They may be almost unbreakable but... Parts that wear can be quite expensive to replace. Diff outdrives etc etc.
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Old 06-16-2011, 04:05 AM   #36
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Isn't there room to put a flange bearing in the C-hub?
This will eleminate slop and friction?.
Don't know if there is enough flesh to do this

regards Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Might explain why my 2 year old Xrays seem quite sloppy , quite a bit of play.
They may be almost unbreakable but... Parts that wear can be quite expensive to replace. Diff outdrives etc etc.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:09 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Isn't there room to put a flange bearing in the C-hub?
This will eleminate slop and friction?.
Don't know if there is enough flesh to do this

regards Roy
I don't know but if there is I'm fitting one

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Old 06-30-2011, 05:15 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
just built myself a t3 '11.
Yeah, right

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Old 07-02-2011, 12:23 AM   #39
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Yeah, right

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