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Old 10-08-2004, 02:02 PM   #16
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Exclamation 1st degree burn

I kinda figured that, I've got myself one time with soldering brushes on the motor endbell. One time is all it takes.
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Old 10-08-2004, 02:24 PM   #17
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Talking Re: 1st degree burn

Quote:
Originally posted by Silver Cup
I kinda figured that, I've got myself one time with soldering brushes on the motor endbell. One time is all it takes.
Yeah - Use needle nose pliers
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Old 10-08-2004, 02:26 PM   #18
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I noticed this thread up here today about braid.

I have been using braid on all my team packs for a couple years know.
We have special braid that has more strains then some of the others.

I agree it lowers IR. I believe this greatly due to the fact that braid has more surface area then bars.
Also because it is more flexible and allows for a tight solder joint to the cell.

I will post a pic of our braid up here in a bit.

If anybody wants to try some shoot me an email and we can work something out.

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Old 10-08-2004, 02:27 PM   #19
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Default Re: Re: 1st degree burn

Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
Yeah - Use needle nose pliers
Definately!!
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Old 10-08-2004, 04:06 PM   #20
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Default Braid

I've been using braid for a while too. You can also find unshielded braid in Radio Shack or other store used for de-soldering - called Solder Wick.

I found that some of the hi-fi shops carry high quality thick gauge braid for stereo systems - very high copper content stuff. I've used that with nice results.

When soldering remember that your solder is going to try to "wick" up the braid so hold on to it very close to the solder joint with needle nose plyers or with a soldering heatsink clamp (very handy little item).
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Old 10-08-2004, 04:14 PM   #21
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Default Re: Braid

Quote:
Originally posted by vaiogeek
I've been using braid for a while too. You can also find unshielded braid in Radio Shack or other store used for de-soldering - called Solder Wick.

I found that some of the hi-fi shops carry high quality thick gauge braid for stereo systems - very high copper content stuff. I've used that with nice results.

When soldering remember that your solder is going to try to "wick" up the braid so hold on to it very close to the solder joint with needle nose plyers or with a soldering heatsink clamp (very handy little item).
Does the highcopper content do anything for internal resistance?
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Old 10-08-2004, 05:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Does the highcopper content do anything for internal resistance?
No, current flows on the outside, not the inside of an object... The more surface area you can provide the more current you can flow... I always used braid until recently.... Just couldn't find it and was too lazy to look hard...
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Old 10-08-2004, 06:54 PM   #23
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Thumbs up

Ok very good then. Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-08-2004, 08:33 PM   #24
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i always use braid on my reiciver packs but never thought of using it on the actual pack
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Old 10-08-2004, 08:36 PM   #25
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Any particular reason

Quote:
Originally posted by T Allen
i always use braid on my reiciver packs but never thought of using it on the actual pack
Just curious, How come?
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Old 10-08-2004, 08:47 PM   #26
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prolly because everyone used bars
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Old 10-08-2004, 08:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by T Allen
prolly because everyone used bars
I have exactly the same excuse. Are you considering it now?
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Old 10-09-2004, 08:27 AM   #28
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I have attached a pic of the braid we having been using.
See my previous post for more info.

Later,
Jeff
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Old 10-09-2004, 08:30 AM   #29
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Opps file was too big.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dsc04233.jpg (175.1 KB, 84 views)
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Old 10-09-2004, 08:43 AM   #30
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Talking Braid my Batts

Cool, do you flare out the end like that and then tin it?
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