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Old 06-06-2011, 04:33 PM   #1
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Default Looking for TC5 tips/tricks and shortcuts.

Are you guys following the manual for diff adjustment on a tc5 on concrect? How do you determine if a belt is too loose or too tight? What are the benefits of a loose vs. tight belt? Are you guys taking your bulkeads off the chassis to adjust rear toe and arm position or are you squeezing a 5/64" allen in there at an angle to hit the screws to get them loose? I'm looking for any shortcuts on working on this car. I just figured out yesterday I could take the motor mount bulkhead off w/ 3 screws to replace a pinion. (Wish I would have known that one before).

Those using a stock chassis w/ an ITF top plate, when are you using orings, do you use o rings on all 4 rears? do you tighten the screws down fully w/ the orings always or use the screw torque to adjust chassis flex? When do you opt for the itf plate vs. the stock one? What benefit does it provide?

Any other tips or tricks you guys have would be great.

Thanks much..

Dave

Last edited by TT_Vert; 06-06-2011 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:06 PM   #2
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I've been running a TC5 in VTA for 2 yrs, theres several shortcuts/tips... I'm pretty sure there's a whole thread w/ lots of good ideas, but what's worked for me:

I run the belts as loose as I can w/o them skipping. I think I'm on the first or second holes for both front and rear cams. It's an efficiency thing really. Also, get rid of the plastic spur gear holder in favor of an aluminum one. KingHeadz makes one, thats what I run. The plastic one warps after a while, and makes the spur gear wobble.

For adjusting the arm height, pick/up a good long ball driver. I've got a hudy 2.0 and 2.5, and the time those 2 wrenches save me is well worth every penny I paid for the wrench. I also replaced the bolts with longer ones from DuBro, a longer bolt allows for a bit more adjustment and I've noticed I tend to bend the longer bolts less than the stock short ones. If something on the car seems tweaked, a bent arm screw is also a good are to check if the obvious is all square.

I run the standard top deck, never really considered running the ITF deck. My dad's car has one, and he's running the o-rings, but I haven't driven his car enough to really try to focus on any difference. On my car, I dont run any o-rings/washers on the front 5 screws, but I bought longer screws for the back and some countersunk washers. A buddy of mine who knows MUCH more than me told me that the top deck can often be an area causing tweak, especially w/ countersunk screws, so my logic was the washers would prevent that. It hasn't seemed to slow me down any, and i've seen other cars w/ the same setup, so there must be something to it.

Other than that, if you're running a spool, stock up on the dog-bone spacers, I tend to break one a race day, especially when a dogbone has eaten into the outdrive some.

There's probably more that I'm forgetting, but if you're running the Assphault Assault series, feel free to stop over and ask away. I'm by no means a genius, but I'm always willing to try to help
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:30 PM   #3
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Thanks. Are the hudy ball drivers round at the end to allow you to use it at an angle?


Quote:
Originally Posted by wizzles29 View Post
I've been running a TC5 in VTA for 2 yrs, theres several shortcuts/tips... I'm pretty sure there's a whole thread w/ lots of good ideas, but what's worked for me:

I run the belts as loose as I can w/o them skipping. I think I'm on the first or second holes for both front and rear cams. It's an efficiency thing really. Also, get rid of the plastic spur gear holder in favor of an aluminum one. KingHeadz makes one, thats what I run. The plastic one warps after a while, and makes the spur gear wobble.

For adjusting the arm height, pick/up a good long ball driver. I've got a hudy 2.0 and 2.5, and the time those 2 wrenches save me is well worth every penny I paid for the wrench. I also replaced the bolts with longer ones from DuBro, a longer bolt allows for a bit more adjustment and I've noticed I tend to bend the longer bolts less than the stock short ones. If something on the car seems tweaked, a bent arm screw is also a good are to check if the obvious is all square.

I run the standard top deck, never really considered running the ITF deck. My dad's car has one, and he's running the o-rings, but I haven't driven his car enough to really try to focus on any difference. On my car, I dont run any o-rings/washers on the front 5 screws, but I bought longer screws for the back and some countersunk washers. A buddy of mine who knows MUCH more than me told me that the top deck can often be an area causing tweak, especially w/ countersunk screws, so my logic was the washers would prevent that. It hasn't seemed to slow me down any, and i've seen other cars w/ the same setup, so there must be something to it.

Other than that, if you're running a spool, stock up on the dog-bone spacers, I tend to break one a race day, especially when a dogbone has eaten into the outdrive some.

There's probably more that I'm forgetting, but if you're running the Assphault Assault series, feel free to stop over and ask away. I'm by no means a genius, but I'm always willing to try to help
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Old 06-11-2011, 08:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
Thanks. Are the hudy ball drivers round at the end to allow you to use it at an angle?
Yes....
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:00 PM   #5
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Can you tell me how you set your diff? I currently have mine 1/4 turn back from tight and it is smooth but I'm curious what kind of tuning if any you guys do using the diff tightness. Ditto diff height w/ the diff cams. I've got mine mid low currently and don't know where to begin tuning w/ them.

Thanks
Dave
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