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Old 08-18-2011, 02:58 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Which pistons you use? 3hole, with 450-500wt should be the ticket to start with... as that's pretty much the base setting most tamiya guys use..
i used the 3 Hole white pistons with 350cst oil. Wt measurements vary so much I try to quote cst measurements when talking shock oil weights.
What cst rating does 350wt oil equate to?
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:20 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by jake95 View Post
at the end of the shaft he means were thread is make it 1-1.5mm shorter so when u put xray bottom on. it jams up when u tighten up to correct length if not shortened


What's the correct length for the TRf shocks ??
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:21 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
These are the dampers

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-dam...8-p-26673.html

To make them work properly on the xray you need to use the xray shock top and bottoms, you can either take them off your plastic shocks or get 2 x 308302.

In order to get everything working right together you need to make a couple mods
* Drill out the tammy cap to take the xray shock top
* Trim 1-1.5mm off the piston to get the correct length
* Sand down the lip on the underside of the xray cap that retains the bladder to about 0.5mm to prevent it cutting the tammy bladder

There's not a lot wrong with the xray shocks but I definitely prefer my car on the tamiyas.
Out of interest Craig are you still using these?

Also what tools did you use to:

1. Trim the shaft by 1-1.5mm
2. Open up the tamiya cap to accept the X-ray plastic mount
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:43 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Bony85 View Post
Out of interest Craig are you still using these?

Also what tools did you use to:

1. Trim the shaft by 1-1.5mm
2. Open up the tamiya cap to accept the X-ray plastic mount
I do, got two sets, they are MUCH better than the standard ones.

Trim the shaft - file
Open the cap - reamer

Easy!!
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Old 12-01-2011, 02:11 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Bony85 View Post
Out of interest Craig are you still using these?

Also what tools did you use to:

1. Trim the shaft by 1-1.5mm
2. Open up the tamiya cap to accept the X-ray plastic mount
I used them until I got rid of the xray, there was one track out of 4 that I raced on in that time that the plastics worked better.

1. Dremel
2. Reamer
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Old 12-01-2011, 02:49 AM   #36
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Cool, thanks for the replies guys, seems like it's a job even I can do

Out of interest Craig how comes the plastics were better on 1 track out of the 4?

Now to find somewhere that has the black shocks in stock, really dont think blue and orange go to well



Mark
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:05 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Bony85 View Post
Cool, thanks for the replies guys, seems like it's a job even I can do

Out of interest Craig how comes the plastics were better on 1 track out of the 4?

Now to find somewhere that has the black shocks in stock, really dont think blue and orange go to well



Mark
I'm not really sure why, but that track has a funny asphalt surface that has a natural push and also overheats tyres so maybe in that situation the plastics are the go. I'd say 99% of the time the tamiyas are better

Incidentally I've got a Kyosho now and the shocks are even better than tamiya, only come in red though
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:28 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
I bought the shocks aftermarket, and the manual says oring, small spacer, then large spacer. What I have noticed is a large amount of "stiction" or static friction in this configuration, even after greasing the oring. Takes alot of effort to get the shock moving which I think is the problem I am experiencing on the track.
I think you are onto something here mate, I will definitly try small spacer-oring-large spacer and see if it improves the damping characteristics.
I will let you know, but I have looked at the TRF 417 manual and it says to put it in the configuration you are talking about, small fat spacer first, then oring, then large flat white spacer. I hope this fixes the issue as these shocks are so sweet and easy to build.
hi, did you ever decide on a configuration that works best?
I built mine like the TRF Damper manual says O-ring / spacer / large spacer and I am curious about the configuration the 417 manual states.

thanks,
-Brian
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:20 AM   #39
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well whats the difference betwen the black trf and the copper flourine coated trfs .....they both look the same and u dont need the preloads on the flourine trfs u can preload the spring just by screwing down .
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:14 PM   #40
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Yokomo shocks are very nice too but trf would be my 1st choice! try to order form rcmushroom.com they are cheap even with shipping included!
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