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Old 05-13-2002, 10:03 PM   #1
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Default TB-01 Setups and Options For TCS

In Australia, we are only allowed to run TB-01's in rally, we must keep the plastic chassis, and plastic oil shocks, although all other tamiya option parts are allowed.

Has anyone had experience with these cars and can suggest some meaningful tamiya options to install.

I also need to know does the long suspension arm set make the car wider? if so to what width?

Looking forward to hearing your suggestions.
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Old 05-14-2002, 07:14 AM   #2
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The long suspension arm set just extends the outer pivot points to where they should be like on other cars.

I would say the best upgrades are:

Aluminum motor mount
Aluminum drive shaft
ball diffs
universal axles, if only just for the front
long suspension arm set
light weight gear sets

Other than that I don't know any other hop-ups that would help to make the car better/ lighter.
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Old 05-14-2002, 11:50 PM   #3
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Any other suggestions guys?

also some info on the handling difference between gear diffs and Ball, i have never run gears diffs in offroad before, the track we run is brushed concrete but there will be jumps 5 -6 inches high
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Old 05-15-2002, 07:28 AM   #4
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The Tamiya gear diffs offer set 'em and forget 'em easy for beginners who aren't into tuning their cars and just wanna play, and in general they will outlast balldiffs between rebuilds by about 10 to 1, but when they do need rebuilt it is almost a catastrophy...LOL and they pretty much need to be replaced.

Ball diffs offer tunability, better efficiency, and cheap rebuilds (in some cases no parts are needed, just relube and retune). Ball diffs are also lighter so less retating mass= faster acceleration and quicker stopping for even more precise handling.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-23-2002, 09:41 PM   #5
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When buying aluminium steering set and ball diff, change the metal bearing in them to ball bearing or else the alumnium will wear out after some time.

I dun think the alumnium shaft is good for off road play. u need a lot of power to drive the car. if u use alumnium shaft, it will wear out the bevel gear at a very fast rate.

I myself is a TB01 driver, so i know a lot abt the car. the only problem i faced is the damper stay. do take good care of it asin singapore, there is no supplier for carbon damper stay for TB01 and Tamiya do not manufacture them. only some brands carries it. but for me to import, is not worth it.

These plastic damper stay will crack if the ground u play is very rough.

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Old 05-23-2002, 09:45 PM   #6
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ball diff helps in the way ur car manoevour around corners

Universal shaft prevents the T-bone from dropping off if u set the turning angle too much.

long suspension set will help in the stability of the car and the material is also harder than the original suspension set also it gives u some options in tuning the damper.

alumnimum motor mount helps to cool the motor. and gives u more gear options to play with.

when u decide to buy long suspension set, u have to buy the correct universal shaft that is meant for long suspension. else u will regret later. so if u think of buying universal shaft, u must consider if u want to buy the long suspension arm.....
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Old 05-24-2002, 07:51 AM   #7
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I don't believe in buying the alumiunm steering. If you want less slop, just use ball studs with a tie rod and cups. The aluminum steering adds more weight.

Ball-diffs are up to you but, they do save weight and allow you to to control the amount of slip. You can also replace the 2 small bushings included with 850 bearings.
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Old 05-24-2002, 09:20 AM   #8
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x414x:

What is slop actually. i seen a lot of post on it but do not know what is it. the slop happens on the steering of the car is it....been to Evo2 thread, they are also solving it there.

i bought the alumnium steering set cos i thought it will improve the steering characteristic and is lighter too. also metal parts are more durable than plastic....i have a lot of cracked plastic parts on My TB01 now....using super glue to salvage it,....
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Old 05-24-2002, 11:03 AM   #9
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Slop is the unwanted movement of parts due to the parts not fitting snuggly. The less slop, the better handling of the car. Most of the time when folks talk about slop, they mean on the steering but it can be on other areas too.

The aluminum steering is surely not lighter than the stock setup. Depending on if its TCS legal, you can put some torque rods on the front hub carriers like a Ta04 but, only after the long arm kit.

Last edited by x414x; 05-24-2002 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 05-24-2002, 11:10 AM   #10
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Just for the heck of it, here is a pic of a Tb01 with torque rods.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tb01-01.jpg (57.1 KB, 1372 views)
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Old 05-24-2002, 08:17 PM   #11
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x414x:

Thanx for the info...i tot of doing that to but still thinking of wys to do it...must buy the TA04 king pin with ball connector to o it on my long suspension arm set....that is how u connect is it???
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Old 05-26-2002, 01:08 PM   #12
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x414x I put on torque rods like that but on my TB01 with the plastic tub and long a arm set on. I took almost all the slop out of the front end and the little it has I want so the car car track straight. I couldn't beleave how much slop it took out. I then used the HPI blue titanium tie rod set and put on normal ball ends for my camber rods. Looks better and alot more adjustment with no additonal slop, actually made it better to.
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Old 05-26-2002, 08:26 PM   #13
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wyd:

how u do it?? can teach me....like for example what additional things u buy to make the setup for the A arm and the caster arm? best of pictures...

Thanx.
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Old 05-26-2002, 09:20 PM   #14
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It depends if you are using the plastic tub on your car or not for the a arm torque links. You will need 2 links. I used the blue Associated titanium ones. I think they are 25mm ones. I used 4 each 4/40 ball studs. I used the short threaded ones. I drilled my caster blocks and tapped the hole with a 4/40 tap kit. You will also need 4 ball ends. I put the ball studs on the caster blocks and put the other two ball studs on the plastic tub where the screw holes were to hold on the plastic cover over the steering assembly. I then made the rods to the correct length and connected my rods. I also use a TB01 graphite toplate on my TB01 with the stock plastic tub.

The camber links were easy. I just bought the HPI RS4 nitro Titanium links made by Associated. I then removed the stock camber links and made new ones with the new Titanium rods. I put 4/40 balls where the stock Tamiya screws went and put the rods and ballends to the right length and put the new camber links on ans reset my camber.
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Old 05-26-2002, 10:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Besercoe
Any other suggestions guys?

also some info on the handling difference between gear diffs and Ball, i have never run gears diffs in offroad before, the track we run is brushed concrete but there will be jumps 5 -6 inches high
I've never driven the TB01, but i compared gear diffs vs. ball diffs on my TA04. There's not any noticeable differences except you get to adjust if needed on the ball diff. If I were you, i'd leave the gear diffs in, save money. Besides, you never have to maintain gear diffs!
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