Serpent 1:10 F1
#181
Hi all. I've just finished building my F110 and it looks great can't wait to run it! However I have a question regarding the side spring retention/adjustment. If
I set it as the manual shows with the ball fitting tight up against the top plate the spring is not secure and drops out so I obviously need to screw it down a bit. Question is how far down should I initially set it? Sorry guys bear with me - my first Pan car!
I set it as the manual shows with the ball fitting tight up against the top plate the spring is not secure and drops out so I obviously need to screw it down a bit. Question is how far down should I initially set it? Sorry guys bear with me - my first Pan car!
#182
I sent a message on hobby talk. my car is built and up and running. I moved the larger pivot ball to the center piece. car is fine now. pivot ball does not fall out of holder.
question though.
what front wing fits on this car, as the Tamiya f104 does not fit, and I would like a 1 piece. I can't find one in the States.
question though.
what front wing fits on this car, as the Tamiya f104 does not fit, and I would like a 1 piece. I can't find one in the States.
http://www.the-border.com/Serpent-4112913.html
#183
Hi all. I've just finished building my F110 and it looks great can't wait to run it! However I have a question regarding the side spring retention/adjustment. If
I set it as the manual shows with the ball fitting tight up against the top plate the spring is not secure and drops out so I obviously need to screw it down a bit. Question is how far down should I initially set it? Sorry guys bear with me - my first Pan car!
I set it as the manual shows with the ball fitting tight up against the top plate the spring is not secure and drops out so I obviously need to screw it down a bit. Question is how far down should I initially set it? Sorry guys bear with me - my first Pan car!
http://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.p...long-term-test may help you as well
The first real vid I've done hope you enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3peKncb1OA8
#184
[QUOTE=DIRTMONKEY;12642641]Start at 3mm
Thanks Dirtmonkey. I'm guessing you mean a 3mm gap between the top of the ball and the bottom of the CF plate. I'll give it a go!
Thanks Dirtmonkey. I'm guessing you mean a 3mm gap between the top of the ball and the bottom of the CF plate. I'll give it a go!
#185
Nice video too!
#186
#187
[QUOTE=DIRTMONKEY;12644145]Ok thanks a lot. The other issue I have is in the diff build. I'm used to gear diffs and don't have much experience with ball diffs. I'm using the correct serpent spur gear however when I put the balls in the holes in the gear they sit very proud. Should the balls be able to pass through the spur or be a tight fit? Do I need to open out the holes slightly? Now the diff is very tight so something is not right as any looser it just slips.
#188
[QUOTE=dan_vector;12648498]
Ok thanks a lot. The other issue I have is in the diff build. I'm used to gear diffs and don't have much experience with ball diffs. I'm using the correct serpent spur gear however when I put the balls in the holes in the gear they sit very proud. Should the balls be able to pass through the spur or be a tight fit? Do I need to open out the holes slightly? Now the diff is very tight so something is not right as any looser it just slips.
I don't own a Serpent F1, but the balls should be right in the center of the spur. You probably have to pop them in, that's actually a nice feature on some spurs that prevents losing the balls too easily. Some brand of spurs are "open" on both sides of the balls holes, can be a bit tricky to build; some are open on one side (many AE buggy diffs are like that IIRC) some are closed on both sides and you just have to pop the balls in or out. (Kimbroughs, Dumor are like that.) HTH
Ok thanks a lot. The other issue I have is in the diff build. I'm used to gear diffs and don't have much experience with ball diffs. I'm using the correct serpent spur gear however when I put the balls in the holes in the gear they sit very proud. Should the balls be able to pass through the spur or be a tight fit? Do I need to open out the holes slightly? Now the diff is very tight so something is not right as any looser it just slips.
I don't own a Serpent F1, but the balls should be right in the center of the spur. You probably have to pop them in, that's actually a nice feature on some spurs that prevents losing the balls too easily. Some brand of spurs are "open" on both sides of the balls holes, can be a bit tricky to build; some are open on one side (many AE buggy diffs are like that IIRC) some are closed on both sides and you just have to pop the balls in or out. (Kimbroughs, Dumor are like that.) HTH
#189
report
yesterday I put some practice laps on this car, on an indoor carpet track. The car is fun to drive. With the recommended rubber tire carpet setup, the set up sheet calls for 2mm spacer on the front bulkhead and 2mm spacer on the servo mount. you will need to use a longer screw on the servo mount for that ball and you will need a longer set screw (I am going to use a m3x8) to screw into the front bulk head to use these 2mm spacers.
I managed to use 1mm spacers at both points w/ stock parts to see if I liked these settings. So far I do, as the car has great turn in and the rear end stays planted.
the plastic bulkhead did strip a little, but a little ca glue has cured that for the time being. Once the aluminum bulkhead is available, I will purchase.
Not practicing w/ any other F1s, I couldn't gauge how well the car is. Other racers at the track said the car looked good.
I am going to race this car against some known fast people at the Halloween Classic in Cleveland this weekend, and hopefully this car, and it's driver, can perform well.
will let you know....
I managed to use 1mm spacers at both points w/ stock parts to see if I liked these settings. So far I do, as the car has great turn in and the rear end stays planted.
the plastic bulkhead did strip a little, but a little ca glue has cured that for the time being. Once the aluminum bulkhead is available, I will purchase.
Not practicing w/ any other F1s, I couldn't gauge how well the car is. Other racers at the track said the car looked good.
I am going to race this car against some known fast people at the Halloween Classic in Cleveland this weekend, and hopefully this car, and it's driver, can perform well.
will let you know....
#190
[QUOTE=dan_vector;12648498]
Ok thanks a lot. The other issue I have is in the diff build. I'm used to gear diffs and don't have much experience with ball diffs. I'm using the correct serpent spur gear however when I put the balls in the holes in the gear they sit very proud. Should the balls be able to pass through the spur or be a tight fit? Do I need to open out the holes slightly? Now the diff is very tight so something is not right as any looser it just slips.
The same questions have been asked on the Ozzie forum eg
Hello to all! I'm almost new to EP cars. I got my serpent F110 this week and I'm building it.
I only had a touring car and a 1/12 for a short time. So I have almost zero experience with a ball differential. I bought a 96t spur gears but the balls stuck in the holes ...I remember that on my 1/12 car the balls vould play free. Shall I have to drill the holes to 3.2mm?
Balls are 3.15mm and holes are 3.0mm.....
Thanks in advance for your help
The solution was
Yes this is a problem I came across as well. Drill the hole out as you have said and it will free up, or you could use another brand, the final drive your looking at is between 2.6 and 2.9, I'm currently at 2.9 with the 96t spur and 33 pinion. Some other drivers are using the 48 pitch gearing as there is more to play with, one I know is running 78 spur and 27 pinion.
Now this is strange but when done no problem, or you could go to another brand say KIMBOROUGH, which have been suggested a few times, my spare gears are 3 Racing ones that I had with the F113 they work well with the factory balls
Ok thanks a lot. The other issue I have is in the diff build. I'm used to gear diffs and don't have much experience with ball diffs. I'm using the correct serpent spur gear however when I put the balls in the holes in the gear they sit very proud. Should the balls be able to pass through the spur or be a tight fit? Do I need to open out the holes slightly? Now the diff is very tight so something is not right as any looser it just slips.
Hello to all! I'm almost new to EP cars. I got my serpent F110 this week and I'm building it.
I only had a touring car and a 1/12 for a short time. So I have almost zero experience with a ball differential. I bought a 96t spur gears but the balls stuck in the holes ...I remember that on my 1/12 car the balls vould play free. Shall I have to drill the holes to 3.2mm?
Balls are 3.15mm and holes are 3.0mm.....
Thanks in advance for your help
The solution was
Yes this is a problem I came across as well. Drill the hole out as you have said and it will free up, or you could use another brand, the final drive your looking at is between 2.6 and 2.9, I'm currently at 2.9 with the 96t spur and 33 pinion. Some other drivers are using the 48 pitch gearing as there is more to play with, one I know is running 78 spur and 27 pinion.
Now this is strange but when done no problem, or you could go to another brand say KIMBOROUGH, which have been suggested a few times, my spare gears are 3 Racing ones that I had with the F113 they work well with the factory balls
#191
yesterday I put some practice laps on this car, on an indoor carpet track. The car is fun to drive. With the recommended rubber tire carpet setup, the set up sheet calls for 2mm spacer on the front bulkhead and 2mm spacer on the servo mount. you will need to use a longer screw on the servo mount for that ball and you will need a longer set screw (I am going to use a m3x8) to screw into the front bulk head to use these 2mm spacers.
I managed to use 1mm spacers at both points w/ stock parts to see if I liked these settings. So far I do, as the car has great turn in and the rear end stays planted.
the plastic bulkhead did strip a little, but a little ca glue has cured that for the time being. Once the aluminum bulkhead is available, I will purchase.
Not practicing w/ any other F1s, I couldn't gauge how well the car is. Other racers at the track said the car looked good.
I am going to race this car against some known fast people at the Halloween Classic in Cleveland this weekend, and hopefully this car, and it's driver, can perform well.
will let you know....
I managed to use 1mm spacers at both points w/ stock parts to see if I liked these settings. So far I do, as the car has great turn in and the rear end stays planted.
the plastic bulkhead did strip a little, but a little ca glue has cured that for the time being. Once the aluminum bulkhead is available, I will purchase.
Not practicing w/ any other F1s, I couldn't gauge how well the car is. Other racers at the track said the car looked good.
I am going to race this car against some known fast people at the Halloween Classic in Cleveland this weekend, and hopefully this car, and it's driver, can perform well.
will let you know....
#192
Thanks again guys. I'll strip it down and open up the holes slightly on the serpent gear see how that goes. If I'm still not happy with it then I'll replace with kimborough.
#193
droop
Must have read over that... my bad. I didn't see anything about droop for the front end. Where should I start it at on carpet. I set it around 1mm for right now. not really sure if I need to add more or not. running rubber tire.
#194
1mm is the good setting (tested on carpet with rubber too)
#195