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Old 05-31-2011, 12:55 PM   #16
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That must have been on foam tires? We are thinking the rubber tires will be cheaper for guys to race on since they won't be chunking tires all the time. Also I'm thinking the rubber tires will keep them slower. The idea is to have a class someone new might be able to jump into without having to drive a lazer fast car around a board track and never finishing a race. Right now the options are World GT single cell with 13.5 and boosted ESC's, VTA with 17.5 and boosted ESC's, and rubber tire sedan with stupid power. I'd really like to see something cheaper and slower for people to race. These F1 cars seem like a win win from what you are saying. The trick is to keep the class under control though and keep it from turning into a class of 500 dollar F1 cars.
SC motors run with 21.5 fairly well, running SC only is a recipe for disaster, and tech issues.
Even a proper $50 cheater SC motor is no faster than a 21.5 BL for 10 min races.
Just beware, there are SC motors out there, that have less turns, and quite different specs, but look very similar to the Kit Tamiya motor.

I've heard recently, that a 20 yr old fibreglass kit F-103 beat $500+ dollar F1 cars at a UF1 race in the "Open" class

As long as you have a spec motor (preferably 21.5) and rubber tires, the high end cars have nothing extra to offer, other than bling.

batteries shaped like this will fit with no issues.
2400mah will run 10 mins easy.



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Old 05-31-2011, 11:57 PM   #17
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8min races should be no problem. I can fit any pack that is under 24mm tall. I currently have a 5000mah in my car and it runs for almost an hour. We were talking just the other day about starting a class and having long 20 min mains.
That would be crazy!! Make the sedan guys marshal. lol
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:27 AM   #18
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That would be crazy!! Make the sedan guys marshal. lol
Yup, that's a little crazy.
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:22 AM   #19
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IMHO You should let everybody run what ever they have, old or new.
Don't have a points series for a long time, people get serious when points are involved.
The qualifiers will break it down enough so the slower guys are out of the way and can run with the other slow guys.
Just try to get as many people running F1 cars as you can and do it for the fun of it.
I know there are many F1 cars setting on some shelf just collecting dust, get them out and bring them to the Woodville track, it's big with lots of room \__>



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Old 06-01-2011, 11:05 AM   #20
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OK Das/Deuce/THE BOY ; )...here goes:

Basically, I agree with Russ:

IMHO You should let everybody run what ever they have, old or new.
Don't have a points series for a long time, people get serious when points are involved.
The qualifiers will break it down enough so the slower guys are out of the way and can run with the other slow guys.
Just try to get as many people running F1 cars as you can and do it for the fun of it.
I know there are many F1 cars setting on some shelf just collecting dust, get them out and bring them to the Woodville track, it's big with lots of room

It's much less important to precisely define a set of rules now, let any chassis run so those that have cars can use them. I would specify 21.5/no boost as the motor/esc to be used,if possible, but allow whatever to get things going. (if you know the guy has a 21.5 and wants to run 13.5, let him race once, then he must comply.)

Take a look at the tire situation before requiring rubber. I don't think foams will chunk like you are thinking because the cars are light, slow, and collisions are best avoided in open wheel cars! It may be easier and cheaper to use foams ( I'd require a minimum O.D. to keep the scale look.) As you learn what works as far as traction, looks, wear, and price, you should specify a SPEC tire. The only problem here is that some tire/wheel combos won't fit some cars ; (.

I have an F201 (4WD), F103 (2WD), and the 3Racing F109 + a DuraTrax IndyCar. I'll try to bring them all when I come up a week from Friday.

I raced with "MXRICH" a few years ago. I won the first race of the F1 season at the Sugarbowl on a 1/8th scale course with a "pan car" and also the second one on our TC track in SC with the F201 (only 2 other cars).

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Old 06-01-2011, 12:27 PM   #21
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OK Das/Deuce/THE BOY ; )...here goes:

Basically, I agree with Russ:

IMHO You should let everybody run what ever they have, old or new.
Don't have a points series for a long time, people get serious when points are involved.
The qualifiers will break it down enough so the slower guys are out of the way and can run with the other slow guys.
Just try to get as many people running F1 cars as you can and do it for the fun of it.
I know there are many F1 cars setting on some shelf just collecting dust, get them out and bring them to the Woodville track, it's big with lots of room

It's much less important to precisely define a set of rules now, let any chassis run so those that have cars can use them. I would specify 21.5/no boost as the motor/esc to be used,if possible, but allow whatever to get things going. (if you know the guy has a 21.5 and wants to run 13.5, let him race once, then he must comply.)

Take a look at the tire situation before requiring rubber. I don't think foams will chunk like you are thinking because the cars are light, slow, and collisions are best avoided in open wheel cars! It may be easier and cheaper to use foams ( I'd require a minimum O.D. to keep the scale look.) As you learn what works as far as traction, looks, wear, and price, you should specify a SPEC tire. The only problem here is that some tire/wheel combos won't fit some cars ; (.

I have an F201 (4WD), F103 (2WD), and the 3Racing F109 + a DuraTrax IndyCar. I'll try to bring them all when I come up a week from Friday.

I raced with "MXRICH" a few years ago. I won the first race of the F1 season at the Sugarbowl on a 1/8th scale course with a "pan car" and also the second one on our TC track in SC with the F201 (only 2 other cars).

Ned
I dis agree.

You do not want to play run what you brung, it will be no fun really fast.

and here is an example at toledo on saturdays they started a 1/10 slider class, everyone pretty much said on good faith keep them cheep keep them near stock as you can.

Someone shows up with a turbo speedo, then 2 then 3 then soeone shows up with a $400 roller next thing you know someone shows up with a $1000 sprint car.

now they have 2 classes, 3 people racing there turbo modded sliders adn sprint car, and 12-14 people racing stock(ish)

A stock tamyia F1 car is near 200 bucks. its a really cheap class to race when everyone has the same rules to follow.

And racing is why we do this because its fun to compete and try to get better.

Whats not fun is trying your hardest and soemone has 10 times the car you do.

half the problem, with half the classes currently is the lack of structure. 2 guys have one class 3 guys and other, 1 guy has something else, some clubs have there own rules some clubs dont use any. some just rung what you brung.

Some guys enter a class and the rules change half way through the year or weekend to weekend. often without warning and often at a cost to the racer.

Run what you brung is for a novice, and novice that does not have one and wants to get into this just by walking past the track should be assisted by a fellow racer on how they can get into the sport and so on.

anyways I could go on about all kinds of stuff and how things used to be.

my 2 cents
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:36 PM   #22
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Foams vs rubber

Rubber means no trueing,

Rubber is going to be cheaper for a new person. no truer

Rubber will be cheaper because of the very limited tires for these cars. Unlike some other classes where you have 15 different tires to pick from.(where rubber is not cheaper)

Foams on carpet make the cars a bunch faster. want to run a foam tire class run world GT, or 1/12 scale.

Old vs new car.

Forceing some people with old cars into a new car will be cheaper for most people, they already have the gear they only need a car, a car that "everyone else" will be using.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:53 PM   #23
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SC motors run with 21.5 fairly well, running SC only is a recipe for disaster, and tech issues.
You must have had some bad luck in the past. We've ran silver cans in both F1 and mini without problems like that. A suspected "cheater" motor can be bought by another driver, or club for the cost of a new johnson 450 motor. So far nothing like that has happend yet.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:56 PM   #24
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You must have had some bad luck in the past. We've ran silver cans in both F1 and mini without problems like that. A suspected "cheater" motor can be bought by another driver, or club for the cost of a new johnson 450 motor. So far nothing like that has happend yet.
I choose not to run SC motors.
But I have seen the issues.
Your rule is a good one though.
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:19 PM   #25
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Even if people don't cheat, they still melt down or go bad on a regular basis. A good Bl motor should last several years.
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:20 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
That must have been on foam tires? We are thinking the rubber tires will be cheaper for guys to race on since they won't be chunking tires all the time. Also I'm thinking the rubber tires will keep them slower. The idea is to have a class someone new might be able to jump into without having to drive a lazer fast car around a board track and never finishing a race. Right now the options are World GT single cell with 13.5 and boosted ESC's, VTA with 17.5 and boosted ESC's, and rubber tire sedan with stupid power. I'd really like to see something cheaper and slower for people to race. These F1 cars seem like a win win from what you are saying. The trick is to keep the class under control though and keep it from turning into a class of 500 dollar F1 cars.
Im in Detroit, and I have a large selection of cars, parts and bodies available for sale. Most are brand new race ready , although I have a couple of used, but in very good condition. I am a dealer for Tamiya, Exotek, DDrive Sports, and Pit Shimizu
PM me with inquiries, I am currently getting my online store up and running, hopefully within the next week or so.
www.f1paintlab.com
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:42 PM   #27
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Even if people don't cheat, they still melt down or go bad on a regular basis. A good Bl motor should last several years.
I agree that brushless motors are better in every way. Only problem we've seen moving to brushless is the initial cost. We're already running the J450's. So, to anyone starting F1, go with a cheap non-ramping brushless ESC combo.
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:50 PM   #28
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I agree that brushless motors are better in every way. Only problem we've seen moving to brushless is the initial cost. We're already running the J450's. So, to anyone starting F1, go with a cheap non-ramping brushless ESC combo.
I just built up an Exotek 104 to start testing. I installed a spare KO BMC that I had with a 21.5 motor, although I have yet to run it. I have seen very little meltdown from silvercans in F1, and I have been running these for a long time. Not saying it doesnt happen, but meltdowns are not commonplace in my experience.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:39 PM   #29
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Although 2 hrs away .... Joliet would be my local outdoor track (I think??) So to have an F1 class run there would be great!!

I still have yet to get my car and I'm thinking of getting the F104 Pro. Or waiting a while and getting the new X1. But then I may miss out on some racing :-)

I'm going to be running the Tamiya rules on rubber.
As far as rules and how to start up a class like this ....
I would have just two classes....
An open class... run what you like foams, rubber, 21.5 or 10 turn. Doesn't matter! Its OPEN!
Then a second Budget class with stock type rules, on rubber.... cause its slower and cheaper, 21.5 or a stock 540 motor maybe. Just the slower cheap stuff if you see what I'm saying.

When you guys going down to Joliet? I'd like to come

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Old 06-01-2011, 05:00 PM   #30
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I just built up an Exotek 104 to start testing. I installed a spare KO BMC that I had with a 21.5 motor, although I have yet to run it. I have seen very little meltdown from silvercans in F1, and I have been running these for a long time. Not saying it doesnt happen, but meltdowns are not commonplace in my experience.
Meltdown = sliding comm, toasted brushes, roasted magnets etc. Doesn't mean it won't run, it just sucks. I can't tell you how many guys I see get a motor hot and then the comm moves...junk motor.
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