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Old 05-28-2011, 02:11 AM   #1
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Default best way to run rear ball diff on xray t3

just bought a new rear ball diff for my xray t3 whats the best way to run it in ? i race indoors on carpet and want it to last thanks for any replies
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Old 05-28-2011, 04:33 AM   #2
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first of all you need to tear the diff apart, because it is not very well lubricated from the factory.

personally i starts by sanding the diff plates with 1000grit sand paper, on both sites.

then i use associated blackgrease for the trustbearing. and then asamble the trust and cone washers and put them in the diff and insert the c-clip that holds this parts in place.

the apply a little bit af diff grease between the outdrive and the diff plate to hold the diffplate in place and to make sure it not moving under action (i use RGP the same as the TRF team uses) the apply some on the other site of the diffplates.

then install the bearings and put the pulley on the diffoutdrive where the bearing is sticking out, apply some grease in the holes where the diffballs is going to be and the install the diffballs and apply a little diffgrease on the diffballs when they are installed.

then assamble the diff and tighten it to the settings you like. i like it fairly tight i use a diff tool that locks the to diff outdrives and then i holds around the pulley and try to make it turn. if it does i tighten the diff more but only a little and the try again untill i can't turn the pulley.

for the run in i install it in the car and put wheels on the car and the turn the car on and apply a little throttle and holds one wheel so the other wheel turns, i do this for about 30 sec. and then take the other wheel. i do this 2 or 3 times and the the diff is runned in. remember to check the diff setting every 2 or 3 run and se if the diff is still smooth.

in pro stock i rebuild after 12-15 runs and in mod i do it after 3-4 runs but i have build diff for some guys that have used it for 30+ runs and was still happy with it

bonus tip.
buy some ceramic diff balls

hope it helps

Steven
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:07 AM   #3
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I like to run it only tight enough so that it doesn't slip. Any tighter doesn't really buy you anything but quicker wear.

Also, after sanding the diff plates, clean them thoroughly with motor spray before re-assembling. No need to add small metal particles into the diff right from the beginning.

Some guys like to run a very tight diff up front instead of a spool so that they don't break driveline parts in the event of a crash. The almost locked diff up front has at least some give that a spool doesn't.
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Old 05-28-2011, 01:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
Some guys like to run a very tight diff up front instead of a spool so that they don't break driveline parts in the event of a crash. The almost locked diff up front has at least some give that a spool doesn't.
Why don't they run a gear diff in front? Hardly any maintenance, and the diff lasts for ages
The diff must wear out fast when using it in the front?
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skynet View Post
Why don't they run a gear diff in front? Hardly any maintenance, and the diff lasts for ages
The diff must wear out fast when using it in the front?
At the time, gear diffs weren't available. When they made specific chassis for running foam tires, the Xrays came with ball diffs front and rear. Since I converted my 007 foam car to a VTA car, I still run ball diffs front and rear. No issues at all.
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Old 05-28-2011, 09:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skynet View Post
Why don't they run a gear diff in front? Hardly any maintenance, and the diff lasts for ages
The diff must wear out fast when using it in the front?
+1, but if you insist on the ball diff, rebuild it immediately. The rings need to be sanded and ample amount of black grease on thrust and stealth diff grease on main diff balls. should feel like butter after that.
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