3 racing new F1
#872
Tech Elite
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Last edited by Sydewynder; 11-30-2011 at 03:17 AM.
#873
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Oh, and bear in mind (something you've forgotten) those pictures are of the car without any load... so obviously the inner link is in a different place to the outer... when the suspension compresses under load (i.e. you put it on the track) the relationship between inner and out stud changes, even in a static condition. With the car sitting on wheels on the table, the inner stud is lower than the outer one... simples.
But usual story, you won't listen to anyone...
#874
I just saw the video qualifier, and I must say good running Robert ! Keep it up.....
#875
TryHard that was a very cool link you posted thanks a lot i learned a great deal from that.
#877
Tech Master
Hi Guys,
I have just received a kit this morning cant wait to check it out.
Just a quick question, what would be a good weight of oil to fit in the gear diff? would 5k be better to get the power down with a 13.5?
Cheers
I have just received a kit this morning cant wait to check it out.
Just a quick question, what would be a good weight of oil to fit in the gear diff? would 5k be better to get the power down with a 13.5?
Cheers
Last edited by Qatmix; 11-29-2011 at 03:02 AM.
#878
AussieRevo , you might be better to ask on the Aussie F1 thread , regarding the HobbyWing setup.
If it were mine , I would start at 50mm rollout and go up from there. (using a temp gun every two minutes )
At a guess, you might end up near 60mm , since you have the torque of zero can timing .....
I'm going to start at 50mm with my HW 13t mini combo.
If it were mine , I would start at 50mm rollout and go up from there. (using a temp gun every two minutes )
At a guess, you might end up near 60mm , since you have the torque of zero can timing .....
I'm going to start at 50mm with my HW 13t mini combo.
#881
We took some CF wrap and some resin and then used a heat gun to cure and stopped breaking front arms even with my terrible driving! PS- boiling seems to help as well.
#882
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I tried brass wire ( I have since been told to use piano wire ) and shoe gooed it to the bottom of each arm, top and bottom arms... no breaks all weekend...
I think the trick is the adhesive has to have flex... friend of mine tried a hard drying epoxy and it would just snap apart when you bend it...
I have a Rabbit kit that allows a 104 front end coming from China, but just found out yesterday that this would eliminate the cool scale drop down front nose ... I don't think I can do that...
#883
Is the breakage on the front arms, the wide or narrow section or both? Don't want to add too much weight.