3 racing new F1
#1186
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
V2 arms
Got a chance to try out the V2 arms thanks to TEXASTC yesterday. I can't tell any difference in the lower arms besides the low friction pivot balls. The upper arms are much more robust but still have very realistic proportions. I ran three practice packs with them so total about 30 minutes of track time. I am pretty good about not hitting stuff but I tapped a board twice during those runs and the new upper arms are still intact with zero reinforcement by me. With the V1 arms all it took was a light board tap to break them so I am optimistic that the V2's can withstand a reasonable amount of abuse.
This was only practice though with almost no traffic. During a race I have no control over the other cars and if someone spins out in the sweeper and we hit head on I would be suprised if these hold up. Only time will tell, will be running them this Saterday all race day to truly test them.
The extra tunability of a link front end is nice but I prefer running these arms since they look more realistic and I dont have to stress out about getting my camber/caster perfect on both sides of the car. The only reason I started using links was for their durability not their tunability.
Fingers crossed...
This was only practice though with almost no traffic. During a race I have no control over the other cars and if someone spins out in the sweeper and we hit head on I would be suprised if these hold up. Only time will tell, will be running them this Saterday all race day to truly test them.
The extra tunability of a link front end is nice but I prefer running these arms since they look more realistic and I dont have to stress out about getting my camber/caster perfect on both sides of the car. The only reason I started using links was for their durability not their tunability.
Fingers crossed...
#1188
Tech Master
Can anyone tell me which tamiya parts are needed to complete formula rabbit conversion? Will this conversion truely solve the front end issues with the fgx? I hate to throw more money at this car but I will happily do it if it makes it more durable and raceable
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
#1189
I am working on getting a pair of these soon.
Could someone kindly list a few spare items I need to have on hand?
Could someone kindly list a few spare items I need to have on hand?
#1190
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
1x upper deck
2x set of spindles
2x set of king pins
2x set of V2 arms
That may seem like a lot but parts are cheap, all the above items should total a little under $50.00. Those are the only parts I have broken with very heavy practice and race use.
Also recomend you re-inforce the lower front arm with piano wire and shoe goo (mentioned earlier in this thread) With this part re-inforced I have broken a titanium turnbuckle, king pin, spindle and upper deck in different collisions but the lower arm is still intact.
Also if you are running high wind (17.5/21.5) brushless motors the high speed gear set is a must.
#1191
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Arms Version 2 arms are beefier. Version 1 are fragile.
Steering blocks
Upper deck
get some F104 kingpins.
Hop ups, get the Fast gear set.
Read the thread, lots of info starting in October about what to expect, tricks, mods, and hop ups. The front end is a problem area, breaks easily. They have released new front arms, which will help. You can reinforce them with carbon flat stock which also helps. But you will want some spares right off the bat. Also it comes with wheels but no tires. Ride tires for the HPI F10 fit, as do some Pit Shimizus.
Hey Robert didnt know you were around
Last edited by texastc; 01-04-2012 at 10:31 AM. Reason: racer robert showed up
#1194
So what's been the fix for it pushing out so hard in turns?
#1199
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Here is a set up that works for me...
Shimizu 0565 and 0561 with stock inserts
sway bar in the rear
stiff rear shocks ( I'm using Tamiya F201 hard springs )
60 weight oil
20 degree rear toe
2 degree rear Camber
0 degree toe front
2 degree front Camber
soft Tamiya front springs
5mm front and rear ride height
21.5 motor / blinky ESC
35 spur
28 - 32 pinion for carpet
34 - 36 pinion for asphalt
I also polished the front king pin as well as polished the front aluminum suspension balls the pins go through and lube the pins... The newer plastic balls should be smoother...
My car is pretty well balanced and plenty of steering... hope this helps...
Shimizu 0565 and 0561 with stock inserts
sway bar in the rear
stiff rear shocks ( I'm using Tamiya F201 hard springs )
60 weight oil
20 degree rear toe
2 degree rear Camber
0 degree toe front
2 degree front Camber
soft Tamiya front springs
5mm front and rear ride height
21.5 motor / blinky ESC
35 spur
28 - 32 pinion for carpet
34 - 36 pinion for asphalt
I also polished the front king pin as well as polished the front aluminum suspension balls the pins go through and lube the pins... The newer plastic balls should be smoother...
My car is pretty well balanced and plenty of steering... hope this helps...
#1200
Tech Adept
finally i get to start my build. as i assemble i wonder,would a alloy bulkhead be a better option than the kit rear? and stiffer rear springs maybe? i have only to run in carpark track so low low traction