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Old 01-11-2012, 08:12 AM
  #1156  
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Originally Posted by freakyfreakyflo View Post
evrything seems fine with the graphite and the parts all match well. i now wait on motor before i can test it truely. i was to think that the motorpod was to have more space but it is quite tight. i fit a big bulk 2 cell battery in with no problem
Thanks for the picture. It looks great. Glad to hear assembly went well. Hopefully mine will be here today.
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:30 PM
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Got a bunch more packs through the FGX over the last few day's thing is holding up great, we built a pretty soft layout this go around.

Car has gotten .5 sec quicker with the following things

CRC red springs 80wt oil
caster reduced to 3d
ackerman shimed out 2mm
1000 CST diff fluid
1d rear toe


still testing like a mofo and should have 4 or 5 on the track tonight... check it out on www.liverc.com
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MAD916 View Post
Got a bunch more packs through the FGX over the last few day's thing is holding up great, we built a pretty soft layout this go around.

Car has gotten .5 sec quicker with the following things

CRC red springs 80wt oil
caster reduced to 3d
ackerman shimed out 2mm
1000 CST diff fluid
1d rear toe


still testing like a mofo and should have 4 or 5 on the track tonight... check it out on www.liverc.com
Mark,

You don't need to hold a car for me. I'm in no hurry to buy as we don't run them here YET. I plan on running with you guys at the 2 day event in April. I'll look into them at that time.

Keep testing and making this car better.


I'll be watching on RCLive, put on a good show.
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:13 PM
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Finally, after a month , I get to race my FGX tonight ! It has some new bling on it, though I haven't had time to kit it all out. Apparently , the alloy bulkheads have been released now , so a set will be headed my way soon enough.

One thing regarding the brake kit, I had to shim the rear calipers out a little , for clearance to the disc rotor. It may be because I have the alloy uprights . I didn't try them with the kit plastic parts.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:09 PM
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Got my rabbit today. First a big thanks to f1 Paintlab for putting together a great parts list.

Assembly is very straight forward and I havent found any problems other than all of the ball studs. The fgx uses a lot of male ball ends and the rabbit is all female. Not a big issue just annoying and had to make a trip to the lhs to get parts. One note is that there are not any instructions. A quick f104 manual download from the internet provided all I needed to know to get the front end assembled. Still need to mount the shocks and electronics but so far so good.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
Got my rabbit today. First a big thanks to f1 Paintlab for putting together a great parts list.

Assembly is very straight forward and I havent found any problems other than all of the ball studs. The fgx uses a lot of male ball ends and the rabbit is all female. Not a big issue just annoying and had to make a trip to the lhs to get parts. One note is that there are not any instructions. A quick f104 manual download from the internet provided all I needed to know to get the front end assembled. Still need to mount the shocks and electronics but so far so good.
i ended up using the female ballends as couplers to mount the shocks and the rear brace. screw the ballend(f) to the top deck and use the FGX ballends screwed into the top of the females.
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MAD916 View Post
Got a bunch more packs through the FGX over the last few day's thing is holding up great, we built a pretty soft layout this go around.

Car has gotten .5 sec quicker with the following things

CRC red springs 80wt oil
caster reduced to 3d
ackerman shimed out 2mm
1000 CST diff fluid
1d rear toe


still testing like a mofo and should have 4 or 5 on the track tonight... check it out on www.liverc.com
Whats the length of the CRC springs? I have tried with F201 springs which are slightly longer then the standard kit ones. The problem is with the F201 springs being longer, the spring cups rubs against the rear stiffener ball end.

Do you have this problem with he CRC springs?
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mkennedy View Post
i ended up using the female ballends as couplers to mount the shocks and the rear brace. screw the ballend(f) to the top deck and use the FGX ballends screwed into the top of the females.
Good idea. For the brace I used a female ball end and a couple of spacers and a long screw on the top deck and one of the longer fgx front suspension ball ends and some spacers on the differential housing. For the shocks I used long screws with a nyloc nut to hold it to the top deck and another nyloc nut to keep the shock in place. To do this I had to shave some plastic from the ball cup on the shock so the screw can stick through. Those were the only two areas that needed some modification to work. I installed all of the electronics tonight and everything fits great. Even trimmed the fgx body to fit around the f104 front arms. it turned out pretty good. I think the body fits better now than before. I can't wait to give it a test run. Any setup hints? I'm starting with 80wt shock oil, yellow f201 springs (medium stiff) 2 degrees of rear camber 1 degree of rear toe, 1/2 degree toe out on the front and the soft front springs. Using medium hpi bridgestones in the rear and soft tamiyas up front. Full traction compound on all four tires with a 5mm ride height. The stock fgx seemed to do pretty good with these settings so this is where I was going to start with the rabbit.

I did buy the f104 Ferrari f60 today. Guess I need to get some Ferrari red paint and get to work.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:16 PM
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By the way I weighed the car at 1260 with a gens ace 5000mah 40c battery. I have noticed that this is a fairly heavy battery so I could drop another 100g with a different battery.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
Good idea. For the brace I used a female ball end and a couple of spacers and a long screw on the top deck and one of the longer fgx front suspension ball ends and some spacers on the differential housing. For the shocks I used long screws with a nyloc nut to hold it to the top deck and another nyloc nut to keep the shock in place. To do this I had to shave some plastic from the ball cup on the shock so the screw can stick through. Those were the only two areas that needed some modification to work. I installed all of the electronics tonight and everything fits great. Even trimmed the fgx body to fit around the f104 front arms. it turned out pretty good. I think the body fits better now than before. I can't wait to give it a test run. Any setup hints? I'm starting with 80wt shock oil, yellow f201 springs (medium stiff) 2 degrees of rear camber 1 degree of rear toe, 1/2 degree toe out on the front and the soft front springs. Using medium hpi bridgestones in the rear and soft tamiyas up front. Full traction compound on all four tires with a 5mm ride height. The stock fgx seemed to do pretty good with these settings so this is where I was going to start with the rabbit.

I did buy the f104 Ferrari f60 today. Guess I need to get some Ferrari red paint and get to work.
the setup sounds good to me, gotta see how it runs...

i was thinking about a F60 as well, but after mounting the FGX body to the rabbit...it looks good. i like the concave nose!
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mkennedy View Post
the setup sounds good to me, gotta see how it runs...

i was thinking about a F60 as well, but after mounting the FGX body to the rabbit...it looks good. i like the concave nose!
Its funny you said that. I looked the car tonight with the f104 wing and the fgx body and I was thinking how much better the nose looked. The fgx body definitely looks good mounted on the rabbit. I was thinking of doing the lotus Renault on the fgx body later. I needed the front wing today and the lhs had the Ferrari body set on the shelf. It was cheaper to buy a body and decal set in one bag instead of ordering everything separately. Already spent too much on the conversion. Needed to save on the body set.
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:47 AM
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would this http://www.rcmart.com/rc-servo-horn-...pe-p-3597.html be any better or worse that the kit servo parts?

and will ball diff help with dusty with low traction surface more than the gear diff? or lighter oil in the gear diff?

thanks

Last edited by freakyfreakyflo; 01-13-2012 at 03:00 AM.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by freakyfreakyflo View Post
would this http://www.rcmart.com/rc-servo-horn-...pe-p-3597.html be any better or worse that the kit servo parts?

and will ball diff help with dusty with low traction surface more than the gear diff? or lighter oil in the gear diff?

thanks
I don't think the ball diff would add any traction over the gear diff. A lighter oil may help some. What camber and toe are you running? Keeping a maximum tire patch in the turns will help a lot.

What tires are you using?
What shock oil?
What springs?
Ride height?

All of these are very important to getting traction. How is your steering? Are you running a sway bar? If you have good steering try a harder spring up front.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
Its funny you said that. I looked the car tonight with the f104 wing and the fgx body and I was thinking how much better the nose looked. The fgx body definitely looks good mounted on the rabbit. I was thinking of doing the lotus Renault on the fgx body later. I needed the front wing today and the lhs had the Ferrari body set on the shelf. It was cheaper to buy a body and decal set in one bag instead of ordering everything separately. Already spent too much on the conversion. Needed to save on the body set.
like this:
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:51 AM
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Absolutely beautiful. That's exactly what I wanted to do. I am definitely going to use the fgx body.
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