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Old 02-28-2013, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by josecarlo1129 View Post
Good day guys!

So I am back here. I just observed that upgrading my plastic rear bulkhead and motor mount to the alum (optional parts), I can't set the main differential to the 'default' position (lowest possible ride). But right after, I set the bearing cover to the opposite position, the gearing contact is smooth and flowing. Any ideas on this? Have a great week ahead. Cheers!
It is less about the the height of the diff and more about the gear mesh. I run mine one notch looser than the instructions also. Much better gear mesh, much smoother drive line.
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
It is less about the the height of the diff and more about the gear mesh. I run mine one notch looser than the instructions also. Much better gear mesh, much smoother drive line.
Thanks sir. I found that looser setting provides smoother gear movements too. Cheers.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:39 AM
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I`m in the process of upgrading my Sakura FGX, I`ve got all the pink alu parts from 3Racing , Ti screws and turnbuckles etc. I have also changed the plastic 17t and 26t gear for aluminum ones, but I`m wondering if there is someone making aluminum spur gears for the FGX?
I have already checked 3Racing and Yeah racing with no luck.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:56 PM
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are you guys running the front sway bar with the ifs, if so which one is a good start? thanks
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:20 AM
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Good day to all! Here's the update on my built. I am loving the realism of this car.







Will post more once I finish the body. Thanks and cheers!
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:51 AM
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I finally broke down and notched the hop up motor mount. I can now put in up to a 36 tooth pinion. I hated doing it, but I needed to get 27 - 30 tooth pinions mounted. 3 small cuts with a Dremel disk and hit it with a sanding stone. Only a couple small dings later, and it works great.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
I finally broke down and notched the hop up motor mount. I can now put in up to a 36 tooth pinion. I hated doing it, but I needed to get 27 - 30 tooth pinions mounted. 3 small cuts with a Dremel disk and hit it with a sanding stone. Only a couple small dings later, and it works great.
pics, pics
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
pics, pics
I'll post them tonight. It was easier than I thought. I just wish I could get that nice machined look and the anodizing replaced. Not happening with a Dremel, even with surgeons hands.
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
I'll post them tonight. It was easier than I thought. I just wish I could get that nice machined look and the anodizing replaced. Not happening with a Dremel, even with surgeons hands.

That's why I like the stock motor mount..

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Old 03-04-2013, 12:51 PM
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What size pinion do you run? I am running 33t with the smallest spur and it seems to work well for my track with reedy timing at 37. I might go 34t if the temp checks ok.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
What size pinion do you run? I am running 33t with the smallest spur and it seems to work well for my track with reedy timing at 37. I might go 34t if the temp checks ok.
I was running a 25 and was only slightly slower than the DD cars. I put the 30 in to test and am hoping for decent temps, torque and top end. Last time I ran the stock motor mount and 34, the motor came off at 200*. Not cool!
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:15 PM
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promises...







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Old 03-06-2013, 05:10 PM
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Thank you!
doesn't look too bad, as far as work
Exotek chassis?
I have the v2 exotek and have been trying to decide what to do as far as the alum bulkhead goes
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:26 PM
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It is the McKune. I have 2 of them.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:17 PM
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its not the exotek chassis as the exotek top deck doesn't reach the motor mount to screw it in. i had done the same mod to my alloy mount, dremel away to fit a larger pinion as we run 21.5 Blinky
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