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Old 06-05-2012, 10:41 AM
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Try running the #3 toe block in the rear . Take some drag break out (if your running it ) .. and also take some inital break out so the car rolls further when breaks are applied .. also might want to run 1 or 2 droop ... What Surface ??
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mb racer View Post
Try running the #3 toe block in the rear . Take some drag break out (if your running it ) .. and also take some inital break out so the car rolls further when breaks are applied .. also might want to run 1 or 2 droop ... What Surface ??
Painted surface, the 3 deg. toe block is already on it. I'm not running any sort of brake approaching sweepers (Drag or manual brakes). I've tried 1-2mm droop to 0mm droop still doing it, the drivetrain is smooth and nothing is binding.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:15 AM
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More front droop and less rear droop...rear droop allows the weight to transfer forward more giving you more front grip.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
More front droop and less rear droop...rear droop allows the weight to transfer forward more giving you more front grip.
That was something I was thinking of trying, but with the kit blocks, I assume you remove the shims above the steering block to get droop? Wouldn't that make the ride height too low? Since you can only get a maximum amount of 4mm rideheight with shimzu tires.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:37 PM
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If you use the F04 king pins you'll have extra room for droop.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:48 PM
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Well my TRG steering knuckles came in today for my FGX and F104. They look very nice! Still need to get in rims and tires to convert over to them yet.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Painted surface, the 3 deg. toe block is already on it. I'm not running any sort of brake approaching sweepers (Drag or manual brakes). I've tried 1-2mm droop to 0mm droop still doing it, the drivetrain is smooth and nothing is binding.
Keefy,

steal some ride slicks off Badman to try out. At WSRC , we are slowly improving our setups and have tested all the compounds.
At present , we are using S/S front and either S/S or Soft rear. The Shimizu have a lot more sidewall flex and overheat after a couple of minutes. I believe they work on carpet and dusty asphalt , but not consistently on boralcoat.
if you have a peek on the WERC thread, I have posted a basic setup.

Fleety.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Gives me added food for thought.

Just to share, our medium sized asphalt track, around 120 ft straight. Medium grip, medium sized corners.
F104 ~ 16.4 seconds
F104 + 30grms ~ 16.9 seconds

Hope when you are bored you can test your f104x at 1112gm vs 1182gm, just out of curiosity.

I will give my FGX a maiden run this weekend against our usual F103, F104s. Hope it can keep up.

Depends on where you added the weight .5 sec per lap is ALOT to gain from 30g where did you put the weight? Pan cars are super critical to weight bias and balance. If i take the 35g camber plate off of my FGX it may accelerate better but it will not turn so it defeats the purpose!!

my other 104 is the same weight as the FGX and still accelerates quicker than the X1 or the FGX!!
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:18 PM
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Any one modified their FGX to 200+mm Width ?
And got it working right ?

I think we can use Hubs or rims ?
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:23 PM
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If you're chasing track width, the Ride rims have a larger offset/deeper dish.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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So out of 3Racing HPI TAMIYA and RIDE RIMs

Does any one have their final width of car after they are mounted ?

Can't find much info on this ... I read somewhere that there is a rim that gives the car the most width.

Well supposedly the local bois that make the rules at our club race increased the allowed width for the series. Which i think 200-205mm was LeMans and 190mm was F1. But it seems they widened it to 205mm for F1 ..... Which I been wondering why their cars been getting wider and wider every time i see it LOL.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Well my TRG steering knuckles came in today for my FGX and F104. They look very nice! Still need to get in rims and tires to convert over to them yet.
I've ordered some F103/4 knuckles too, along with kingpins and rims . Looking forward to ditching those puny little bearings and their weak / gritty nature.

Also received some Exotek delrin rear arms, they look the goods.
To those that have them already - how have you chosen to space them ?I was going to go long for stability . Thoughts ? (I know it will likely reduce turn in )
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by iPearl View Post
So out of 3Racing HPI TAMIYA and RIDE RIMs

Does any one have their final width of car after they are mounted ?

Can't find much info on this ... I read somewhere that there is a rim that gives the car the most width.
Can't answer on the Tammy rims, but I have been told that Ride make the HPI tyres and rims, which are definitely wider than the stock 3 rims....
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by fleetmaster View Post
Can't answer on the Tammy rims, but I have been told that Ride make the HPI tyres and rims, which are definitely wider than the stock 3 rims....
Bit confused on that a bit.

So Ride rims are the same as HPI Rims in width ?
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Depends on where you added the weight .5 sec per lap is ALOT to gain from 30g where did you put the weight?
I add weight at the sides of the battery, between the receiver/esc and the rear pod. That way adding or removing weight in that placement does not affect front/rear balance. It's mainly tuning to the grip level of the track.

In our track, when grip is good, a 30g weight difference is noticeable. Right now my FGX is 110grms heavier than my F103.
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