3 racing new F1

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  • Quote: thanks. i might have to pick some up. has anyone done a 3Racing front spring to "normal" 1/12th scale spring analysis?? i have a box of 1/12th stuff that i rather use if at all possible.

    my car is doing a violent front end chatter ( sort of like McLaren's from 2011 ) entering the sweeper off power, and in other high speed sections when getting off power. when i press on the front and rear ends -- the front end feels like the over sprung part of the car.

    i''ve tried ASC 0.022 and ASC 0.018 springs. i'm running 3 degree metal plate and the front weight. i'm going to try the 1 degree plate --- but didn't feel like removing a million screws at the track as i wasn't racing.

    in my rear end i'm running the std shock, 1 hole pistons and losi 70wt. i've tired the hardest and lightest springs -- didn't make that much of a difference. making the springs softer helped -- but not that much.
    I'd stay with the .018 springs. The front of the car does have a lot of flex and the stock upper deck does generate a little positive camber when the springs compress. I picked up the McKune chassis help with that, but haven't run it yet. both the Exotek and MD chassis are designed to give a little negative camber. What front tires you running? It takes mine a couple laps to get enough heat into them.
  • Also, if you can get some wider hexes for the front that will help too. The front track is narrower than the rear even with wide hexes. Best tire combo I have found is pit shimizu soft rear medium front grooved tires. My car will still get the front end shake but I have to really push it and even then its not that bad.

    Are you racing f1 in the carpet nats?
  • Quote: I'd stay with the .018 springs. The front of the car does have a lot of flex and the stock upper deck does generate a little positive camber when the springs compress. I picked up the McKune chassis help with that, but haven't run it yet. both the Exotek and MD chassis are designed to give a little negative camber. What front tires you running? It takes mine a couple laps to get enough heat into them.
    I don't think the problem is heat in the tires. The chassis shake occurs from lap one. Once the tires warm up -- the sound is amazing!

    PS-0561 Soft Front Tire
    PS-0565 Soft Rear Tire
  • Quote: Also, if you can get some wider hexes for the front that will help too. The front track is narrower than the rear even with wide hexes. Best tire combo I have found is pit shimizu soft rear medium front grooved tires. My car will still get the front end shake but I have to really push it and even then its not that bad.

    Are you racing f1 in the carpet nats?
    wider front hexes is a good suggestion.

    unfortunately no Nats for me. i'm trying to rationalize my vacation time right now -- and i just realized i need to be French, or work for a French company

    if i push it really hard in the sweeper i just send the car into are barrel roll. i broke a rear arm backing the car into the sweeper pipe
  • Quote: wider front hexes is a good suggestion.

    unfortunately no Nats for me. i'm trying to rationalize my vacation time right now -- and i just realized i need to be French, or work for a French company

    if i push it really hard in the sweeper i just send the car into are barrel roll. i broke a rear arm backing the car into the sweeper pipe

    What is your setup? sway bars?
  • A one two finish for Troy an I this past weekend at the ECC up in Seattle. The Mckune cars were amazing this weekend and we made a lot of progress. I Will have some more info on setup. But not till after the Nats can't give away all the secrets yet. Team Timezone/McKune has got a national to try and when

    Thanks to Troy for another great product
  • Quote: What is your setup? sway bars?
    w/o doing a setup sheet -- haven't tried the sway bar(s) yet. planning on moving to ASC RC18 shocks. i was really looking to solve the front end shaking before the other handling drama.

    front:
    asc 0.018 (tried 0.022 too.... 0.018 better)
    green lube on kingpins
    3 degree camber <-- probably too much
    least amount of caster
    two shims on top of steering block
    3racing front weight
    4.5mm ride height
    1 degree toe-in
    PS-0561 Soft Front Tire

    rear:
    3racing shock - 1 piston
    70wt oil
    tried T7 and T6 springs -- T6 probably better
    two degree camber
    5.5mm ride height
    15wt losi oil in gear diff
    1 degree rear toe-in
    PS-0565 Soft Rear Tire
  • Quote: w/o doing a setup sheet -- haven't tried the sway bar(s) yet. planning on moving to ASC RC18 shocks. i was really looking to solve the front end shaking before the other handling drama.

    front:
    asc 0.018 (tried 0.022 too.... 0.018 better)
    green lube on kingpins
    3 degree camber <-- probably too much
    least amount of caster
    two shims on top of steering block
    3racing front weight
    4.5mm ride height
    1 degree toe-in
    PS-0561 Soft Front Tire

    rear:
    3racing shock - 1 piston
    70wt oil
    tried T7 and T6 springs -- T6 probably better
    two degree camber
    5.5mm ride height
    15wt losi oil in gear diff
    1 degree rear toe-in
    PS-0565 Soft Rear Tire

    Go back to the harder front spring but also harder front tires
    with all the normal slop in the front 3* is ok
    having the least amount of caster gives you the most corner entry steering so if you are traction rolling going in to the turn that you need some caster, if you are rolling on the exit than leave it where it is.

    REAR:
    go with 1000 wt oil but keep the softer spring
    go to -1.5 camber in the rear

    try these things out and let us know! Keep in mind that on carpet you are always trying to take traction away since there is so much of it available. Try and make your car push and then dial some steering back in. even going with harder rear tires will also help since they will slide before gripping and rolling the car over.
  • Quote: wider front hexes is a good suggestion.

    unfortunately no Nats for me. i'm trying to rationalize my vacation time right now -- and i just realized i need to be French, or work for a French company

    if i push it really hard in the sweeper i just send the car into are barrel roll. i broke a rear arm backing the car into the sweeper pipe
    These cars have a bad habit of traction rolling on carpet. How much traction compound are you using? They are also very sensitive to the amount of compound? Use no more than the inside half of the front tire. Any more and it will roll over.

    We have a really nice sweeper at our track. It is a fine line between hitting it right or rolling through it into the wall. Try to bump the throttle right before the point where the car tries to roll. This will shift the weight onto and back off of the front to keep the tire from digging in.

    Also how is it rolling? Does it just flip over or does it seem to pirouett on the outside front tire? Knowing this will help in fixing it.
  • i can traction roll if im hard on the wheel w/o any front dope. if i lift it is more planted / predictable / safer. i'm thinking about slamming the car to 4.0mm RH and trying that too.

    it does a lovely pirouette ... and thus i think its to stiffly sprung.

    i've thought about gluing the sidewalls. i'm going to ride out these tires until they really don't work --- since i don't have an F1 class at my local track to speak of.
  • Go ahead and glue the sidewalls. It will help.
  • Quote: i can traction roll if im hard on the wheel w/o any front dope. if i lift it is more planted / predictable / safer. i'm thinking about slamming the car to 4.0mm RH and trying that too.

    it does a lovely pirouette ... and thus i think its to stiffly sprung.

    i've thought about gluing the sidewalls. i'm going to ride out these tires until they really don't work --- since i don't have an F1 class at my local track to speak of.
    SincIe it is doing a pirouett I would try to soften the rear end and try to get a push out of the car. I agree 50% with the ride height but you may end up scraping the chassis. Lower the rear ride height to 5 mm and RAISE the front as high as it will go.

    Traction rolling is a sign that your roll center is too low. Since there is very little adjustment up front you are left with raising the ride height to raise the roll center. It will also raise the cg a little but the benefit of having the roll center higher offsets raising the cg. Especially since the front is light to begin with. This sounds odd but it should help a lot.

    I think your front springs are either fine or too soft. You may be compressing them all the way down until there isn't any travel left.Try the ride height first then try a stiffer spring.

    Glueing the side walls will help but its messy looks like crap and only covers up a problem. You can tune this out of the car if you keep working on it. I fought the same thing and finally fixed it. Now I push and I'm working back to a good balance of the car. It sucks but hang in there and it will get fixed.
  • Quote: Can't wait to hear how it runs!!!
    Here is a link to the TQ RC Winter Series Rd 8 - F1 A Main Clicky

    I'm running the gold body (waiting for my RedBull stickers) right now. Ended up coming in 4th place, the car drove really well for me. I felt like it still has too much grip in the rear and is really bleeding off too much speed in the corners. Car was easy and very fun to drive. Aside from some stupid mistakes and sloppy driving I was having a blast.

    I need to get my F1R setup on the the track. Its a relatively new layout and I've been focused on the FGX, I have really neglected the 104.
  • My car was chattering in the front last week, until I threw a rear swaybar on it.
    Chatter reduced by 80%
  • Quote: My car was chattering in the front last week, until I threw a rear swaybar on it.
    Chatter reduced by 80%
    Which thickness did u try?

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