shano83

iTrader: (8)

I have been using kingpins of a himoto car. They are approx 3mm longer but are still 3mm thick like the standard ones. These also don't have the centre groove for the c clip so they are stronger. I have had some pretty big stacks that made me think it's busted but they weren't

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

do u have a part number?

shano83

iTrader: (8)

Hey bloke the part number i have for the kingpins are HI-08020
Let me know if you want any pics of how to shim.

freakyfreakyflo

hello mike
could you say when the front arm inserts will be for sale? i break third set of front arm now and can only think the insert might help me(and stop hitting the pit board lol)

thanks

shano83

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys where is everyone getting their f1 replica decals from? I tryed d drive and f1 paint labs but they don't have in stock what I want.
What I'm after is hamiltons scheme.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Try tqrcracing.com He keeps both the d-drive and F1Paintlab sheets in stock too.

PS, just checked and even he is out...

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Have you tried the piano wire mod? I haven't broken a single set since. Someone needs to duplicate the upper arms with the piano wire imbedded right in the plastic, then replace the upper ball joint with a turnbuckle with a link end for camber adjustment. I hope Troy finishes his up soon as that will be the best option, IMO. I do have the parts to make the turnbuckle uppers if I get short on spares.

I'm set for this type of mod, but need to build it out. The one shown has the F104 front end on an early FGX conversion.


And this is the key part.
http://www.rcmart.com/rc-mrr2-hopup-...2-p-24166.html


There is a plastic version of this part also.

Everything else is off the shelf. Dubro 3mm heavy duty link ends or any upper ball with a 3mm hole will work for any of the 8 turnbuckle ends.

I think this is an ugly solution, but one that works.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Likely the end of the month. I have not broken any arms yet and I have side swiped a high speed wall made of lumber pretty good and the car just drove on without a hitch. I think having the lower braces in absorbs enough energy that the upper arms are protected from damage also and I am using stock v2 arms- no piano wire or anything. I have managed to break 2 king pins though right at the center groove for the e-clip

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

If you are making crush sleeves for the front and rear axles I'll buy em

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Flip the king pin over and dont use center e clip.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Wish I knew that a few months ago! I have since used F104 king pins by shortening 1mm and grooving for a new clip- now bullet proof

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Theres another part for you to market!

yeah I use those too. Found out they fit by accident. We were drilling out the holes and using 1/8" 1/12 kingpins for a while too.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Good idea.
I put a shim behind the pin and use fresh locknuts to get the tension just right for no binding and all the play is gone front and rear. Touchy to get right but working so far.
I did this per this thread but still broke one however the shoo gooed front end held up. WCRC is brutal on my F1s. Like drag racing thru an alley.
I did this as per your tip Mike, only I used the pins from an F103 which were already the correct length just needed the e clip groove cut into it.
I did this with a drill spinning the pin and a Dremel with cutoff wheel to cut the groove. Dialed.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I wonder if an f104 kingpin with one end threaded would be alright? Seems pretty simple.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Anybody CA their tire's sidewall entirely, and sand them down for smoothness. It seems to stop the arms from breaking ...