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Old 07-20-2007, 06:02 PM   #13096
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Originally Posted by TAMIYAMANUK View Post
the packs soldered Side by side with Corally 4mm tubes, i can get the rear end of the pack in but the front will not go in
Do you have Shoe goo between the cells and do you have them double shrink wrapped? If so that is your problem. Goo between the cells and extra cell wrap makes the packs too long to fit.
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Old 07-20-2007, 07:16 PM   #13097
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nope nothing between the cells, i have the alloy Tray thats for the bigger cells in there also but there just not going in , by the looks of it its the Corally tubes thats in the way at the front end

any pictures of how your cells are in?
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Old 07-20-2007, 08:07 PM   #13098
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This is how I do my tubes, hopefully it helps.
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Old 07-21-2007, 06:36 AM   #13099
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Anyone here can suggest anything to get the correct gear ratio. Does Losi make bigger spur > 128T for the JRX-S???

Thanks.[/QUOTE]

PRS makes a spur gear adapter, if you don't already have it, and offer a 130 spur gear. Then you can use the "pan car" spurs. You might have to clearance the chassis once you get that large.
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Old 07-21-2007, 07:38 AM   #13100
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This is how I do my tubes, hopefully it helps.
thanks i think thats where its going wrong for me, i need to resolder my tubes
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Old 08-14-2007, 04:20 PM   #13101
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Hey all. I am looking to get my jrxs up and running again, and was wonder what the setups are looking like with the new arms. Yeah, it has been awhile since I last ran it. Any good rubber tire\carpet setups? Thanx for the help.
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Old 08-14-2007, 08:14 PM   #13102
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This is what i ran at Snowbirds last year, my car was pretty darn good in 19 turn.
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:20 PM   #13103
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Hi guys, Just wondering i am pretty sure that the TC4 front and rear hub carriers and c-hubs fit on the jrx-s? Correct me if im wrong. but anyway the thing that im wondering is can the aluminium hub carriers and C-hubs from the tc4 fit on the jrx-s?

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2007, 07:59 AM   #13104
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Hi all,
I raced my jrxs today and im running brushless 13.5 stock. My problem is that i have to run my rear diff really loose so my car does not spin out when i get on the power comming out of the corners, when i tighten it so its a reasonable tightness the car just spins out comming out of the corners. Everyone i spoke to says its to loose but its the only way i can keep it under control. Is there anything i can change to help stop this?

I run rubbers on ashphalt

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2007, 08:10 AM   #13105
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Originally Posted by Fast XXXS View Post
Hi all,
I raced my jrxs today and im running brushless 13.5 stock. My problem is that i have to run my rear diff really loose so my car does not spin out when i get on the power comming out of the corners, when i tighten it so its a reasonable tightness the car just spins out comming out of the corners. Everyone i spoke to says its to loose but its the only way i can keep it under control. Is there anything i can change to help stop this?

I run rubbers on ashphalt

Thanks
If you are running it that loose then you are basically just running a FWD car.Are you running a diff up front or a spool or oneway? You may want to check bearings to make sure you don't have a bad one in the rear of the car that is making it spin out. You are going to ruin that diff running it that loose.
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Old 10-07-2007, 09:33 PM   #13106
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Im running a tightened diff up front. Im pretty sure the bearings are ok but i will check them soon. Even when excellerating then turning the slightest, the car spins out. Its only when im on power comming out of the turns it spins out.
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:48 PM   #13107
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Originally Posted by R.Fenstermacher View Post
So I don't see how you can be running a 118/47, unless you have a different servo horn or some kind of option on your car to give you more room.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I managed to squeeesh a 118/50 tooth combination onto my JRX-S (w/ Johnson silvercan 540, starting off in the sport).

I had to push the servo horn all the way down onto the servo hub, but there's still a good 0.5mm of clearance at full lock each direction... And there's all the clearance in the world with the steering centred. No worries at all.

Edit: What about the 48 pitch gears? That way there are 92/94/96 tooth spurs (from memory) and the peeen-yon can be smaller too as a result, pushing the motor futher aft. That might work?

Last edited by Spots; 10-08-2007 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Added comment about lower-pitch gears.
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:16 AM   #13108
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quick qeustion.

i need the part number for the revised arms...

or the bk arms..

thx,
matt
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Old 10-09-2007, 10:20 PM   #13109
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quick qeustion.

i need the part number for the revised arms...

or the bk arms..

thx,
matt
Same number as the old ones but with an A after the number. But it may not matter anymore since I believe the quit making the original once anyhow and you can only get the BK mount arms.
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Old 10-10-2007, 02:31 PM   #13110
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Same number as the old ones but with an A after the number. But it may not matter anymore since I believe the quit making the original once anyhow and you can only get the BK mount arms.
sweet.............thx yeti
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