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Old 02-20-2007, 08:50 PM   #12931
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I know Box Kar Hobbies in Cedar Rapids, Iowa has 2 pairs of the revised rear arms and two pairs of the revised front arms. You can call them at 319-362-1291.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:46 AM   #12932
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Cheers for that info on the diff tubes etc, I will let you know in due course why I asked this ? POOKYT in about 2 weeks

I have another ? for you dude
I have the following setup, but am strugerling with corner speed, actually its not the going in or around the corner, its the coming out of the corner to plant the power down. I use this setup for out doors and indoors with the exception of runnng a diff indoors, if I was to lower the diff on the rear what would this give me? (if there are any other dudes out there, please don't be afraid to put your 2 penny worth in) below is the set up im using.

Front:

50wt Oil
15lb Spring
56 Piston
White bladder
2 O-rings above bladder
2mm droop
4 degree caster
1 degree camber
41T spool
.100" shim under high roll center
diff high
middle hole on shock tower
position 5 on camber link - JR Camber link mod, rear tower on the front see:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...postcount=10792

and

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...postcount=10354

-

Rear:
35wt Oil
12.5lb spring
56 piston
White bladder
2 O-rings above bladder
3mm droop
1.5 degree camber
.040" shim under low roll center
diff high
2 degree inboard toe-in
hole 2 on shock tower
hole 5 camber link

any ballast weight at rear of car (as close to the diff centre line as poss.)

If I've missed anything, email me.
Cheers Malc


Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Malc--The acentric YES....The diff tube NO

The diff tube has changed with the new style short diff assy. Hope this helps mate!

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Old 02-21-2007, 11:28 AM   #12933
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Malc...

You could add more rear toe in (1 degree hubs) and that would make it more planted on power. Also, if you lower the rear diff it will make the car feel more lazy and more planted. I would also suggest making the rear inner camber link in position #4...will give more rear grip overall.
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:09 PM   #12934
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something easy give the front of the car more up travel less droop and maybe stiffer front spring will put more weight on the rear end on power or off the corner or anything you can do to get it to transfer more weight to the rear and 50 wt oil sounds heavy for 15 pound spring
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:48 PM   #12935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan
Cheers for that info on the diff tubes etc, I will let you know in due course why I asked this ? POOKYT in about 2 weeks

I have another ? for you dude
I have the following setup, but am strugerling with corner speed, actually its not the going in or around the corner, its the coming out of the corner to plant the power down. I use this setup for out doors and indoors with the exception of runnng a diff indoors, if I was to lower the diff on the rear what would this give me? (if there are any other dudes out there, please don't be afraid to put your 2 penny worth in) below is the set up im using.

Front:

50wt Oil
15lb Spring
56 Piston
White bladder
2 O-rings above bladder
2mm droop
4 degree caster
1 degree camber
41T spool
.100" shim under high roll center
diff high
middle hole on shock tower
position 5 on camber link - JR Camber link mod, rear tower on the front see:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...postcount=10792

and

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...postcount=10354

-

Rear:
35wt Oil
12.5lb spring
56 piston
White bladder
2 O-rings above bladder
3mm droop
1.5 degree camber
.040" shim under low roll center
diff high
2 degree inboard toe-in
hole 2 on shock tower
hole 5 camber link

any ballast weight at rear of car (as close to the diff centre line as poss.)

If I've missed anything, email me.
Cheers Malc
If you lower the rear diff, then it should rotate around the turns even more but not as to be loose.
I don't think this will solve your problems. First I would try just changing the rear oil to 45. If this is not enough then straighten up the rear shocks 1 hole. If still not enough then I would lengthen the rear camber link to the #4 hole.
Last year when Todd suggested we try running the rear diff in the low position, it helped to free my car up in the turns a bit more but not as to make it loose. Good luck and please let us know how it goes.

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Old 02-22-2007, 11:28 PM   #12936
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so... a-arms... 2 more weeks?

i'm thinking it may be time to check out one of those uber-cheap cyclones stormer is selling.
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Old 02-23-2007, 01:43 AM   #12937
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RussB, I have a set or 2 I could spare, new or 1st design?
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Old 02-23-2007, 03:13 AM   #12938
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My local shop just got some in, so i guess they are shipping out now.
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Old 02-24-2007, 04:35 PM   #12939
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losipartswarehouse had a couple pairs so i got some from them, and i think ampdraw has some also.

so here's my attempt to re-inforce the front arms. the problem is i'm breaking out the new shock mount hole when lightly tapping a board. our track is pretty high grip asphalt with heavy 4x4 barriers. any hit is a nasty hit...

these parts are just my rough attempt at a saturday afternoon hack job. if they work well, maybe i'll get some made up with proper hole spacing, these are just "close" with oversized holes to fit. my logic is there are now 2 holes and 2 screws taking the hit instead of one hole with just a little meat around it. i think i'll use button head screws, but i'll get some next time i'm at the track.
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:28 PM   #12940
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My local shop had like 2 dozen.
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:00 AM   #12941
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Russ, are you running the stock bumper on your car? If so throw it out and get yourself a PDub bumper and you should not break arms near as much. The PDub is much stiffer then then the stock kit one. Plus you could just work on stayin off the boards.
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:19 AM   #12942
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i'm running the pdub. as for the boards... have you ever raced at speedworld? it's made up of engineered wood 4x4's, plow disks, and cinder blocks. just clipping a corner disk can ruin your run.
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:59 AM   #12943
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right guys am sorry if i sound abit Nobish but i am just looking for a quick breif down on the car IE week spots, best mods to make etc... sorry for asking and sorry if you have said this alot times but i am just after abit of info before i go out buy one etc


best regards
ash
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Old 02-25-2007, 12:42 PM   #12944
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are you going for a jrxs or a jrxs-r when they come out? there's not really any weak spots, just the usual breakage on hard impact. a-arms, castor blocks, and steering knuckles are good spares to have on hand. as for aftermarket mods, i'm running mine basically box stock except for springs.
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Old 02-25-2007, 12:44 PM   #12945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMIYAMANUK
right guys am sorry if i sound abit Nobish but i am just looking for a quick breif down on the car IE week spots, best mods to make etc... sorry for asking and sorry if you have said this alot times but i am just after abit of info before i go out buy one etc


best regards
ash

Ash--Unless you have plenty of time to read through this thread I would suggest a quicker help would be to go to www.jrxs.com. You will have a much faster time reading about the hop-ups and few weak spots in the JRXS. Good Luck to you.

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