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Old 11-22-2006, 08:33 AM   #12811
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Originally Posted by DotyThe8ight
should i buy a jrxs??? been finding good deals on em cuz the R is comin out.....so buy the jrxs or wait and get the R????
I dropped my pre-order of the TypeR. I got a killer deal on a JRXS and a ton of parts. I've got enough stuff to race for a year or more now without buying anything. The car is great. If you want to save some money it's a great way to do it.
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Old 11-22-2006, 09:17 AM   #12812
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It starts as a hobby, then becomes a obbsesion. I ride the side of mental illness.
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Old 11-22-2006, 09:22 AM   #12813
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OCRCD = Obsessive Compulsive RC Disorder
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:03 PM   #12814
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Does anyone find the jrxs hard to tune because when i make changes to anything it doesn't really change the feeling or handling of the car? that would be for rubber tires on ozite.
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:54 PM   #12815
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With Carpet/foams I've found the car to be VERY responsive to changes.
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Old 11-23-2006, 12:29 AM   #12816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi guy
Does anyone find the jrxs hard to tune because when i make changes to anything it doesn't really change the feeling or handling of the car? that would be for rubber tires on ozite.
No! With this car, I can tell a difference normally in any change I have ever made to it. Some more than others. On carpet with rubber tires the feel may not be as evident as with asphalt or carpet/foam but you should feel the change.

**With that said here are a few things I have noticed aver the past couple of years in helping others with their cars.**

ANY time you make a change to springs, roll center shims, or shock position, you MUST always reset your ride height and droop!!!! If you simply lean your shocks out one hole on the tower you will notice the ride height will drop! If you lean them in 1 hole the ride height may stay the same BUT you now will have too much tension on the springs that the suspension will be bound up. I have found that after any change, I hold the chassis up in the air and make sure I can take a finger and make sure my springs will roll around the shock. If it doesn't then I need to reset the droop and or ride height. Normally just leaning in one hole on the tower will require 2- 4 full turns off of spring tension to regain the same static settings. Droop and ride height go hand in hand. A change in one usually requires a change in the other. For every tiny bit of preload we have on a spring, its rate increases drastically! This one element I usually find as a problem when helping others at our track. I too had this same problem and was lucky to have a guy at my track who explained this to me a few years ago when I was getting frustrated in setting up my XXXSG+. Just think, have you ever wandered over to the "fast " dudes pit and pushed up and down on his chassis and thought," Man that feels so smooth" and then noticed he was running stiffer springs and a heavier weight oil than you? I hope this helps. Good Racing to you and yours!!

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Old 11-23-2006, 08:07 AM   #12817
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Thanks for the input! I'll check those things and give them try.
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Old 11-23-2006, 09:18 AM   #12818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi guy
Thanks for the input! I'll check those things and give them try.
Go get'm!!!


And Happy Thanksgiving to all of you and your family's today!!

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Old 11-27-2006, 08:45 AM   #12819
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Default different upper a-arms

I bought a used JRXS and it did not have the original upper a-arms/linkage on it.
Instead it has a square box with another inner square piece inside that bolts to the wheel carrier.

Where are these part listed? I need to get a replacement for one that is stripped.

Thanks
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:56 AM   #12820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slippery Dan
I bought a used JRXS and it did not have the original upper a-arms/linkage on it.
Instead it has a square box with another inner square piece inside that bolts to the wheel carrier.

Where are these part listed? I need to get a replacement for one that is stripped.

Thanks
Dan--Those are called the JR upper link. This is a custom made unit from a C-hub and a A-arm. The smaller inner square is from the C-hub and the larger outer square is made from the lower front arm. Look side by side with some spares and you will see how to make new ones. Also, if you run into trouble, do a search on JRXS.com for JR link and you should have plenty of info. Good Luck

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Old 11-27-2006, 12:36 PM   #12821
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I'm following a set-up that Mike Haynes passed on that calls for High Diffs both front and rear. What's the advantage of this setup and how would if effect running stock rubber on carpet?

Thanks!
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Old 11-27-2006, 02:42 PM   #12822
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Running the diffs higher seemed to make my car stay flatter..but it would lift instead of lean alot. Try both ways and see what suits your preference / track. If you need the car to be easier to drive, try front high and rear low...seemed to help keep it planted for me.
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Old 11-27-2006, 05:49 PM   #12823
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Just wanted to add my name to the list of praise for Mike Haynes' rubber tire setup for carpet. I finally got out the track for the first time in like 2 or 3 months this past Saturday and tried Mike's setup for the first time. The car was just awesome with this setup. It's quick and very easy to drive. If you're running rubber tires on carpet, you NEED to try this setup out. Thanks for posting the great setup Mike!
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:28 PM   #12824
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were can i find this set-up? i would love to try it,because i don't like the set-up i have on it now
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Old 11-28-2006, 08:31 PM   #12825
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Thanks for the info on the a-arms.

Are there any aluminum hop-ups for this car?
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