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Old 07-31-2006, 11:10 AM   #12316
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Wider front ends will steer less, but be more stable in braking and through corners. Narrow widths will have slightly more in-corner steering. If the car already has plenty of steering, wider is better.

Just a few spare cents...

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Old 07-31-2006, 03:20 PM   #12317
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Default Indoor racing - wooden floor

We will be moving indoors soon to race on a wooden floor (a school gym). Tyres used are blue Schumacher mini-pins. Has anyone ever raced a JRXS on this type of surface and have any ideas for changes to setup (I currently run the Numan setup outdoors).

Stephen
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Old 07-31-2006, 06:38 PM   #12318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoyle
We will be moving indoors soon to race on a wooden floor (a school gym). Tyres used are blue Schumacher mini-pins. Has anyone ever raced a JRXS on this type of surface and have any ideas for changes to setup (I currently run the Numan setup outdoors).

Stephen
You might want to adjust your current set up to get maximum traction, because being a student i have first hand knowledge of gym floors and they get very dusty and dirty.
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:09 PM   #12319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoyle
We will be moving indoors soon to race on a wooden floor (a school gym). Tyres used are blue Schumacher mini-pins. Has anyone ever raced a JRXS on this type of surface and have any ideas for changes to setup (I currently run the Numan setup outdoors).

Stephen
Stephen,

I was in Scotland last year and got a sample of the wood school gym flooring in Penicuik. If I had my JRX-S, I would have certainly started with the Numan setup. However, those conditions were truly all about car control. We would call it drift racing in the US.

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Old 08-01-2006, 04:04 PM   #12320
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Lttp, but regarding diff height, does it just change the CG or
does the CVD/LCD angle change matter? The reason that I ask
is that (if I recall correctly) in the manual it says that higher =
flatter which seems opposite if the CG is higher (= more roll)?

Also, did Losi ever release 1.5 and 2 degree rear hubs? If so,
part #'s? Would like to try a 0+2 or 1+1.5 setup.

Thanks.
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:12 PM   #12321
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Default Team Orion 3200mAh Race Spec LiPo Batteries

Will Team Orion 3200mAh Race Spec LiPo batteries fit in the front motor car?
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:30 PM   #12322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bink
Will Team Orion 3200mAh Race Spec LiPo batteries fit in the front motor car?
If they are the ones in the hard case I don't believe so w/o serious modification. If you want to go Lipo, just wait for the new car, Todd made mention that they will fit in that one.
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Last edited by Yeti35; 08-01-2006 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 08-01-2006, 09:18 PM   #12323
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Bink- Good question, I don't know the answer, but I would like to know, too. (KO Grand Prix, etc).

rainblows- Those hubs have never been commercially available, to my knowledge. But that may change in the future?

Todge- What have you been testing the past two days!? heheheh
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Old 08-03-2006, 05:34 PM   #12324
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Is there an aluminium replacemnet screw kit available for the jrx-s?? Any recommendations on screws to leave steel?
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:07 PM   #12325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capelracer
Is there an aluminium replacemnet screw kit available for the jrx-s?? Any recommendations on screws to leave steel?
titanium screws would be the way to go. Just don't use them in alu parts or apply some sort of isolating paste (don't remember the name of the product).
But why use alu or Ti screws ? the JRX is light enough as it is.
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:55 PM   #12326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainblows
Lttp, but regarding diff height, does it just change the CG or
does the CVD/LCD angle change matter? The reason that I ask
is that (if I recall correctly) in the manual it says that higher =
flatter which seems opposite if the CG is higher (= more roll)?

Also, did Losi ever release 1.5 and 2 degree rear hubs? If so,
part #'s? Would like to try a 0+2 or 1+1.5 setup.

Thanks.
Unfortunately we never did release those hubs!
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:56 PM   #12327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Filipow
Bink- Good question, I don't know the answer, but I would like to know, too. (KO Grand Prix, etc).

rainblows- Those hubs have never been commercially available, to my knowledge. But that may change in the future?

Todge- What have you been testing the past two days!? heheheh

I will check the new orion battery tomorrow and let you guys know.

As for the testing, I guess we will see at the KO Grand Prix!!
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Old 08-03-2006, 06:57 PM   #12328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capelracer
Is there an aluminium replacemnet screw kit available for the jrx-s?? Any recommendations on screws to leave steel?

I would go with the Ti screws too. You never have to worry about them breaking as you do with aluminum. Plus you need to be very careful threading aluminum screws into aluminum as it can gaul very easily and make the screw break off.
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Old 08-03-2006, 07:41 PM   #12329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T. Hodge
Hey guys, we have been doing alot of testing lately. We have found that lowering the rear diff and keeping the front high is a huge improvement on the rear engine car. Could you guys give it a try on the front engine car and see what you think?
Ran this set-up over the weekend on outdoor pavement and the car felt more planted but was not scrubbing speed. Great tire wear............ Great rotation, especially on On-Power steering. Ran less droop front and rear for the first time. The surface is new black top and no grip additive is sprayed at the track.

Car is simply awesome!.............. Take your time with the arrival of the new car............. I'm in no rush!
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Old 08-05-2006, 11:56 AM   #12330
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just doing my quarterly check... any eta on the new car?

also, it's probably too late to ask, but can the new car be a top-loaded battery with clips/thumb screws instead of the bottom load? i have grasshopper flashbacks whenever i work on my friends car.

thx in advance.
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