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Old 04-16-2006, 01:55 AM   #11431
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I'm working with a friend to get a B-Main logo ready so I can finally get some T-Shirts and stickers made. I think I'm going to include Dremel Motowerks on the T's as well!! I'll keep ya posted.

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Yeah.... don't forget ya mates.. a wee bit south of the border.....
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Old 04-16-2006, 03:45 AM   #11432
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OK lets see now........1 pink cropped tank top for Steve-O, and 1 stain resistant T shirt so 2Bad won't have any "beverage" stains!!!!

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Old 04-16-2006, 04:32 AM   #11433
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OK lets see now........1 pink cropped tank top for Steve-O, and 1 stain resistant T shirt so 2Bad won't have any "beverage" stains!!!!

Brant
Champion fella......
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Old 04-16-2006, 05:51 AM   #11434
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Originally Posted by POOKYT
OK lets see now........1 pink cropped tank top for Steve-O, and 1 stain resistant T shirt so 2Bad won't have any "beverage" stains!!!!

Brant
You better send one of those hot pink cropped tank tops for 2-bad as well....
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Old 04-16-2006, 06:28 AM   #11435
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You better send one of those hot pink cropped tank tops for 2-bad as well....
You keep sniffing around threads like these, and you're gona have to buy a losi as well.....
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:16 AM   #11436
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Hey guys,

I was just looking at the JRX-S Aluminum pivot blocks and was wondering which one was the replacement 1 and 2 degree. Looks as if they are going to release some other 1 and 2 degree blocks that can actually toe out the rear hence adding 1 or 2 degree rear hubs to lengthen the wheelbase. Which are the replacement and which are the toe out versions?

0 Degree Pivot Block
+1 Degree Pivot Block
+2 Degree Pivot Block
-1 Degree Pivot Block
-2 Degree Pivot Block

Are the +1 and +2 replacement blocks adding 1 or 2 degrees rear toe and the -1 and -2 used for toe out? Or is it the other way around?
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:46 AM   #11437
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Ran my JRXS again last night. Car was really pretty good. Pushed a tad but I didn't get to work on it as I was working on some other problems at the time.

It was a funny night though. The car seemed sluggish and slow all night long but was less than 2 tenths off the fastest guys. Car felt like it had zero rip but my lap times where the right around 3rd or 4th fastest all night out of 20 plus guys. I felt the car was really slow but the lap times showed I was right in the ball park. Maybe because it was so easy to drive that it made the car feel slow. It just was just strange all night. In the 3rd round while on a really fast run I wacked the wall pretty good and broke a front One Way outdrive (totally my fault and 1st broken part in 3 weeks of running the car).

Need to work on the battery fit a tad as they fit just a tad tight. Not bad but something I can easily and neatly fix with Team Dremel!!!!!!!!!!!

I think I will be ordering a new speedo this weekend for the next time I race. Not sure what I want but it will be NEW.

Overall the performance has been really good and still better than expected.
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:55 AM   #11438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tornado_Racing
Hey guys,

I was just looking at the JRX-S Aluminum pivot blocks and was wondering which one was the replacement 1 and 2 degree. Looks as if they are going to release some other 1 and 2 degree blocks that can actually toe out the rear hence adding 1 or 2 degree rear hubs to lengthen the wheelbase. Which are the replacement and which are the toe out versions?

0 Degree Pivot Block
+1 Degree Pivot Block
+2 Degree Pivot Block
-1 Degree Pivot Block
-2 Degree Pivot Block

Are the +1 and +2 replacement blocks adding 1 or 2 degrees rear toe and the -1 and -2 used for toe out? Or is it the other way around?

Tony--
The negative 1 and 2 are less than the 0 we now use. Toe in or toe out will depend on which end of the car you use it on. -2 on the rear will give toe out and the -2 on the front will give toe in. Hope this helps!

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Old 04-16-2006, 09:58 AM   #11439
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Need to work on the battery fit a tad as they fit just a tad tight. Not bad but something I can easily and neatly fix with Team Dremel!!!!!!!!!!!


Dremel on my bother!!! Dremel on!!!!!

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Old 04-16-2006, 02:49 PM   #11440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Need to work on the battery fit a tad as they fit just a tad tight. Not bad but something I can easily and neatly fix with Team Dremel!!!!!!!!!!!


Dremel on my bother!!! Dremel on!!!!!

Brant
10 minutes of work and all problems are solved. Didn't have to take much material off and it still looks nice and neat. I hate hack jobs!!!!!!!

Well went over the car some and somehow my droops and ride height got messed up. Not sure how but it was so far off I can't believe my car was as dialed in as it was. The way the ride height was and droop the car should of been a second a lap or more slower. Mechanic better pay more attention!!!!!!! Oh wait that is me. Amazing how much better my suspension feels now.

Do have one question. I'm running a Numan setup with a few minor changes to suit my driving but in a couple of months I will be going to a pretty rough high speed track. I know from last year with a different car you need at least 6.5 to 7mm of ride height not to bottom out and drag the chassis all the time. I now have 40wt in the car but for this track I was thinking of keeping my current setup with a ride height change and then going to 30wt oil? Would that sound like a good idea.

I lowered the oil 10wt in my 415 at this track and one softer spring rate and this really took away alot of the hopping on the bumps. Would the same effect be on the Losi as well?
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Old 04-16-2006, 02:53 PM   #11441
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Yes!!! Atleast thats what I would start with.

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Old 04-16-2006, 03:11 PM   #11442
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I willtry that next time I go to this track. I know I will be doing a warmup race or two before the big race.
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Old 04-16-2006, 03:19 PM   #11443
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Hey Pookyt,

I just got thru making and installing the front camber mod,surprised myself with how good they turned out. Made up a spool with the 41 tooth pulley and about to go thru the car to set everything up. I would like to gain from your vast wisdom as to shock oil, droop settings, springs, camber settings, I'm running with 6 degrees caster, I know it's the basic Newman setup you used last year at Small Cars, but you were dialed from what everyone has said. Oh! what about up travel adjustment?



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Old 04-16-2006, 06:54 PM   #11444
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I want to be just like POOKYT...................lol

Is Team Dremel looking to add anyone to their sponsor list?
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Old 04-16-2006, 06:55 PM   #11445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aca
Hey Pookyt,

I just got thru making and installing the front camber mod,surprised myself with how good they turned out. Made up a spool with the 41 tooth pulley and about to go thru the car to set everything up. I would like to gain from your vast wisdom as to shock oil, droop settings, springs, camber settings, I'm running with 6 degrees caster, I know it's the basic Newman setup you used last year at Small Cars, but you were dialed from what everyone has said. Oh! what about up travel adjustment?



Seeking to draw from the WELL OF KNOWLEDGE!
Allen

Allen--Up travel is almost always 2mm. Push the chassis flat and pick up the tire on a side and make sure it comes off the ground 2-3 mm. At Jackson, I ended up with just 1 thick roll center shim under all the front blocks and drop the rear camber link 1 hole down on the tower. Shock oil was 40 all around with stock pistons and 2 red O-rings under shock cap. If the track seems to be gaining traction through the day, on your last qualifier, add 1 thin roll center shim under the rear blocks This should be where you want to be for the 3rd race and the main. Also, I remember running the 1.5 deg hubs on the opposite sides with the #2 rear block to run 1.5 of rear toe-in. If the car needs a touch of off the corner snap, then go back to the 0 hubs. See what this does and let me know.

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