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Old 04-03-2006, 10:24 PM   #11296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezalb8891
heres a pic of the bottom of the chassis it broke the bulk head, shock tower,front pivot block,and rear pivot block luckily this all happend after i won the feature
there is one guy at my local track that has done that to 4 chassis. he is up to his 5th one already. Mine has a fracture i just put some CA on it and so far it's holding but i am expecting it to break.

Check out Xtreme RC they have a 3mm thick lower chassis i think it goes for $100.00-$120.00
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:48 PM   #11297
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Originally Posted by 5thscaleracer
there is one guy at my local track that has done that to 4 chassis. he is up to his 5th one already. Mine has a fracture i just put some CA on it and so far it's holding but i am expecting it to break.

Check out Xtreme RC they have a 3mm thick lower chassis i think it goes for $100.00-$120.00
Did he do that at SoCal? I still have yet to split or break a lower chassis there..
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Old 04-04-2006, 02:39 AM   #11298
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Does any body know what companies make spur gears to suit the JRXS . I want to find a smaller gear so I can run about a 50mm or 2" rollout for 540. Also is there any manufacturers that make another engine mount so a Johnson 540 will fit ? Oh yeah I am in Australia.
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Old 04-04-2006, 02:58 AM   #11299
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Originally Posted by thachowman
Does any body know what companies make spur gears to suit the JRXS . I want to find a smaller gear so I can run about a 50mm or 2" rollout for 540. Also is there any manufacturers that make another engine mount so a Johnson 540 will fit ? Oh yeah I am in Australia.
PRS do....
You can buy them from here, when there back in stock:
http://www.kthobbies.com/shop/index....af2270c230edff


To fit a johnson 540, most use a motor spacer. This will push your 540 out by about 3mm, but it should then fit in the original motor plate.


Hope this helps,
Peter
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Old 04-04-2006, 05:46 AM   #11300
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Cheers for the help guys, I'll give it all a go next time out.

2-Bad - Tried all of them!!! I was expecting at least one of them to work! In the end I moved the camber link to the upper position on the front, making the car a bit easier to control, really dumbed it down though!

Malc - I noticed a lot of people were on 27s too, nuking them with their tyre warmers! I thought it was way too cold for the move up to 27s. RP 24s seemed to be a popular choice too. Where can I find Ben's setup? Us 19 turners pay a vistit to Southend later in the year.

There was one Losi that seemed to work well. Mr. Jon Winter seemed to have his car pretty dialled, it was smooth and consistent over Wrexham's bumpy track, couldn't find where he was pit though!
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Old 04-04-2006, 06:11 AM   #11301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRXS_chris
Cheers for the help guys, I'll give it all a go next time out.

2-Bad - Tried all of them!!! I was expecting at least one of them to work! In the end I moved the camber link to the upper position on the front, making the car a bit easier to control, really dumbed it down though!

Malc - I noticed a lot of people were on 27s too, nuking them with their tyre warmers! I thought it was way too cold for the move up to 27s. RP 24s seemed to be a popular choice too. Where can I find Ben's setup? Us 19 turners pay a vistit to Southend later in the year.

There was one Losi that seemed to work well. Mr. Jon Winter seemed to have his car pretty dialled, it was smooth and consistent over Wrexham's bumpy track, couldn't find where he was pit though!
Im sure i told you where he was you numpty! Up on the raised up bit not far from where i was pitting!
I ran 27s and let em burn, dunno how good they would have been for 19t though.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:12 AM   #11302
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Did he do that at SoCal? I still have yet to split or break a lower chassis there..

yup all done at socal... 1 was because he was using Ti screws and the flat head didn't fill up the hole compleatly it was slightly undersized so it ripped the bulk head right out of the holes during impact. The other time he had the standard screws but he has fractured some and others compelatly taco style.
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Old 04-04-2006, 11:59 AM   #11303
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it "was" an oval chassis now i have to save for a another lower chassis and it is an extreme chassis
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:09 PM   #11304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRXS_chris
Cheers for the help guys, I'll give it all a go next time out.

2-Bad - Tried all of them!!! I was expecting at least one of them to work! In the end I moved the camber link to the upper position on the front, making the car a bit easier to control, really dumbed it down though!

Malc - I noticed a lot of people were on 27s too, nuking them with their tyre warmers! I thought it was way too cold for the move up to 27s. RP 24s seemed to be a popular choice too. Where can I find Ben's setup? Us 19 turners pay a vistit to Southend later in the year.

There was one Losi that seemed to work well. Mr. Jon Winter seemed to have his car pretty dialled, it was smooth and consistent over Wrexham's bumpy track, couldn't find where he was pit though!

Chris
The Ben Rayments set-up is on page 366
I to run nineteen turn and you will want to run Ben's set-up for Southend and run 6/7 mm ride hieght or you will muller your chassis especialy at the extreme rear corners where the locating pin sits in the chassis, you may want to go as far as I did, and that is to cover the bottom of the chassis with duct tape
This is Ben's set-up just take a look at what I did it may help too
Front:

50wt Oil
15lb Spring
56 Piston
White bladder
2 O-rings above bladder
2mm droop
4 degree caster
1 degree camber
41T spool
.100" shim under high roll center
diff high
middle hole on shock tower
position 5 on camber link - JR Camber link mod, rear tower on the front see:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...postcount=10792

and

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...postcount=10354

-

Rear:
35wt Oil
12.5lb spring
56 piston
White bladder
2 O-rings above bladder
3mm droop
1.5 degree camber
.040" shim under low roll center
diff high
2 degree inboard toe-in
hole 2 on shock tower
hole 5 camber link

any ballast weight at rear of car (as close to the diff centre line as poss.)

Cheers Malc THE CAN MAN
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:34 PM   #11305
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quote
There was one Losi that seemed to work well. Mr. Jon Winter seemed to have his car pretty dialled, it was smooth and consistent over Wrexham's bumpy track, couldn't find where he was pit though!

Chris
How could NOT find Jon Winter with BLONDE SPICKY HAIR and a voice like FOG HORN (no direspect Jon )
Cheers Malc THE CAN MAN
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:47 PM   #11306
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Default Help guys....Pooky you out there???

I need some input on shock length. Putting on the Numan set up with BK arms already cut the shock eye lets but; looking for some input on over all length. Also, the set up sheet is not really clear as to the roll center shims under the front mounts. Do I need shims under both mounts front and rear? or just the front. I'm talking about just the front end in reference to the front pivot mount and rear pivot mount.

Thanks,
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Old 04-04-2006, 10:23 PM   #11307
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The standard Numan set-up has 0 shims in the rear and 2 thick shims .100 total in the front. With the camber mod I preferred 1 .050 shim under the front blocks. The shocks are full lenghth will no shims outside or in. Just bolt them puppies on that sucker and drive home-doggy!

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Old 04-04-2006, 11:22 PM   #11308
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Pookyt,
I'm a friend of Rainey down here in the Jackson, ms area. Did you use the standard Numan setup last October at Small Cars Unlimited when you were down here? And did use a spool on our track. Sorry that I missed meeting you that weekend, but was on vacation in Gatlinburg. Ed set the date after we set our vacation date. Hope to see you later this month for our state race.

Allen
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Old 04-04-2006, 11:32 PM   #11309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aca
Pookyt,
I'm a friend of Rainey down here in the Jackson, ms area. Did you use the standard Numan setup last October at Small Cars Unlimited when you were down here? And did use a spool on our track. Sorry that I missed meeting you that weekend, but was on vacation in Gatlinburg. Ed set the date after we set our vacation date. Hope to see you later this month for our state race.

Allen

Allen--Yep I started with it and ended up with the single thick shim under the front blocks and 1 thin shim under the rear. Other than that the numan setup with a spool should get you right there. I didn't have the camber mod at the time but I could have used it with this same set-up. Front camber hole on tower with out the mod use the lowest hole. If you get the mod then use the middle or even try the top hole. I seem to remember the traction really came up in the main so if the car is loose early-don't tune yourself out of the main. On the second qualifier I was TQ for mod and then in the 3rd. my car tightened up a bit. If it plays out the same for you then I would pull the thin shim out from the rear and kick it in the main. Seems like they also reapplied traction compound before the main so the bite was definately high. Call me if you need any help. We wanted to come race the Magnolia race but its the same weekend as our TCS race. Later

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Old 04-04-2006, 11:40 PM   #11310
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Thanks for the tip Pookyt, sorry that I'll miss meeting you again but good luck with the TCS. Oops it's passed my bed time, later!

Allen
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