R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-13-2006, 08:55 AM   #10426
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Green Bay,WI
Posts: 3,006
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to R/C Anonymous
Default

i have the front camber mod on my losi for stock rubber carpet...i was running close to the same laptime with and without(maybe .1 slower without)

the car felt more consistent with the mod on with my setup
__________________
Geoff C.
R/C Anonymous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 11:43 AM   #10427
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 50
Default Differential Thoughts....

To all Jrx-s pros,

I've encountered a unique problem with the differentials on my Jrx-s when running foams on carpet (using JTG on ozite). The problem is the diffs are buttery smooth prior to a run, but immediately after a run, they are extremely notchy. Here's the catch, if I operate the diffs for a few moments, the notchiness goes away and the diffs become smooth again.

I know I'm missing something obvious, so here's how I build the diffs:

Sand diff rings with 400 grit
Lightly lube each diff ball with diff grease (asc silicone)
Lube the thrust bearing assembly with black grease (asc black)
Invert every other cone washer (use 5)

Initially set differential fairly loose, hold 1 wheel and apply throttle for a few moments to seat the diff, then start to tighten the diff until almost no slippage is felt while holding 1 wheel and the spur gear.

I've been told there are some potential issues with the old style thrust bearings (new ones are cased differently), and don't know if that could be the problem.

I've never had a diff be smooth, notchy, and then smooth again.
Any thoughts?
rcoldman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 12:00 PM   #10428
Tech Elite
 
dawgmeat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,505
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
3/32 x 3/16" is the bearing size, eBay has them for a buck a piece, but I'd run the Losi ones on a front spool, they seem to be a little better quality..

part#please
dawgmeat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 12:05 PM   #10429
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Then, come to Speedworld for the Asphalt Nats in June to test yourself...No dots...Just hard barriers.
I'll be there before June testing, dont worry
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 12:09 PM   #10430
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcoldman
To all Jrx-s pros,

I've encountered a unique problem with the differentials on my Jrx-s when running foams on carpet (using JTG on ozite). The problem is the diffs are buttery smooth prior to a run, but immediately after a run, they are extremely notchy. Here's the catch, if I operate the diffs for a few moments, the notchiness goes away and the diffs become smooth again.

I know I'm missing something obvious, so here's how I build the diffs:

Sand diff rings with 400 grit
Lightly lube each diff ball with diff grease (asc silicone)
Lube the thrust bearing assembly with black grease (asc black)
Invert every other cone washer (use 5)

Initially set differential fairly loose, hold 1 wheel and apply throttle for a few moments to seat the diff, then start to tighten the diff until almost no slippage is felt while holding 1 wheel and the spur gear.

I've been told there are some potential issues with the old style thrust bearings (new ones are cased differently), and don't know if that could be the problem.

I've never had a diff be smooth, notchy, and then smooth again.
Any thoughts?
The cone washers should all be going 1 direction, not inverting every other one. For your front diff, to make the car a little easier to drive, I'd suggest running Losi brown diff grease, it's super thick, which allows you to run the diff a little looser to put less strain on the components.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 12:12 PM   #10431
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
part#please
I dont have a list of part #'s here, but the easiest way to get them is go to Horizon's site and just do a search for the part you are looking for. I did this one for ya LOSA6912
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 12:30 PM   #10432
Tech Regular
 
JRXS_chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Manchester, England
Posts: 386
Default

Cheers Guys, One final question before the dremel comes out...

Are you still running 4 degree caster blocks? I have been running 2 degrees recently on a tight indoor, carpet track with pretty good results.
JRXS_chris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 12:55 PM   #10433
Tech Elite
 
2-Bad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,725
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcoldman
To all Jrx-s pros,

I've encountered a unique problem with the differentials on my Jrx-s when running foams on carpet (using JTG on ozite). The problem is the diffs are buttery smooth prior to a run, but immediately after a run, they are extremely notchy. Here's the catch, if I operate the diffs for a few moments, the notchiness goes away and the diffs become smooth again.

I know I'm missing something obvious, so here's how I build the diffs:

Sand diff rings with 400 grit
Lightly lube each diff ball with diff grease (asc silicone)
Lube the thrust bearing assembly with black grease (asc black)
Invert every other cone washer (use 5)

Initially set differential fairly loose, hold 1 wheel and apply throttle for a few moments to seat the diff, then start to tighten the diff until almost no slippage is felt while holding 1 wheel and the spur gear.

I've been told there are some potential issues with the old style thrust bearings (new ones are cased differently), and don't know if that could be the problem.

I've never had a diff be smooth, notchy, and then smooth again.
Any thoughts?
I have had the same problem on a certain track here, (where there is a lot of diff action).... In my opinion it is the thrust bearing lube overheating. This is why after a few minutes it will feel good again. I never had much luck with the brown grease, but the Associated black grease and the ofna high-temp diff grease were better. Also, don't over tighten the diff initially either.

Hope this helps.....
__________________
Yokomo * G Force * Sanwa * SMC * ProSpec
2-Bad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 12:58 PM   #10434
Tech Elite
 
2-Bad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,725
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRXS_chris
Cheers Guys, One final question before the dremel comes out...

Are you still running 4 degree caster blocks? I have been running 2 degrees recently on a tight indoor, carpet track with pretty good results.
The amount of caster depends on the speed of the corners you're running on. If it's a small track then "2" sounds about right, but it's something you'll need to try and decide for yourself....
__________________
Yokomo * G Force * Sanwa * SMC * ProSpec
2-Bad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 01:21 PM   #10435
Tech Regular
 
JRXS_chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Manchester, England
Posts: 386
Default

Anyone tried mounting a sway bar in the new found, ex-shock position hole in the camber mod. A la Mi2?
JRXS_chris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 01:32 PM   #10436
Administrator
 
Matt M.'s Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 8,410
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I dont have a list of part #'s here, but the easiest way to get them is go to Horizon's site and just do a search for the part you are looking for. I did this one for ya LOSA6912
or do a serch on e-bay, i got them for a buck a bearing, instead of the 5 per that losi charges...
__________________
Team Losi Racing-Team Tekin-Proline Racing-Motiv-92zero Designs-Jim Neubert Paint Design-LiveRC.com-TFR-Team Dirt Heaven-Gravity RC-Trackside

UNLESS someone like you cares a whole awful lot,nothing is going to get better. It's not. Dr. Seuss
Matt M. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 01:38 PM   #10437
Tech Regular
 
Rick Worth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Elmwood,Tn
Posts: 348
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Here's something I did to make my diffs stay smooth longer. Since the Losi thrust is kind of open in the middle, mine seems to get gritty real fast. When I rebuild, the diff rings aren't the problem, it is always the thrust bearing. My TC3 diffs stayed good for 2 to 3 years because they were more closed in. I simply took a piece of Lexan & cut it to fit around the diff housing & then put a small #2 screw into the gray plastic to hold it in. Make sure you don't turn the screw in too far. R.W.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Losi JRXS-000_0277.jpg  
Rick Worth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 02:01 PM   #10438
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 8,996
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I'll be there before June testing, dont worry

REALLY
__________________
REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 02:17 PM   #10439
Tech Elite
 
Mike Haynes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Area 51
Posts: 3,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by runnin rc10
Alright guys, first off, LOVE this car. Only one serious problem thus far.

Earlier in this thread I mentioned that I was having problems with getting bindage inbetween my servo and motor. So after taking out my current servo, and comparing, I decided it was just too big. Put in a different one and now have plently of space between the motor and servo horn. But the biggest problem didnt solve itself as I wished it would

If I go into a turn, and my wheels glance the pipe (we arent all perfect ) Its like my servo gets stuck into the direction I was turning and wont undo itself until Ive told the marshall that my wheels need to be "popped" back into place. By this time, Im 2-3 laps down, and have wasted a run. At first I thought it was just my car, maybe my servo selection. But the other guy at my track who runs a JRX-S (very fast guy BTW) had this happen last weekend. And I know he runs better servos than I. So my question would be if anyone has had this problem, if so (even if not) is there anyway I can fix it? Its killin me not being given a shot at the win because I tap a pipe that wouldnt have made a big deal anyway....

I had this same problem a few times bafore, and traced it to be the small bit of flashing on the inside of the steering knuckle where it would contact the castor bloack. If you file it a little smoother, then it should not stick anymore.
__________________
Team Associated - Reedy Power - Sweep - Protoform - TQ Wire - Lacher paint
Mike Haynes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2006, 04:02 PM   #10440
Tech Master
 
TheCoolCanFanMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Watford
Posts: 1,738
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
One other thing to check is that I believe when the car first came out, either the manual was wrong or the parts were numbered wrong, but it seems to me that some brands of servos take a different servo horn than what the manual says. Can anybody else remember what the deal was?

Brant
Brant
I had asimular prob with my steering locking out when I first built my car, and had built it with the left front drive shaft in the wrong slot in the diff half. Only a observation but take a peek RCOLDMAN
Cheers Malc THE CAN MAN
__________________
ARC 2013 model ZEN Racing, MM-UK, HW 3.1, Rich Paints, MM UK Rug Racers win13.5 2007/8
2nd in 2008/9/10 Win Ansman GP 2010 Schumacher GP. 17.5 blinky Winner of STCC 2009/10 13.5 WLRC 2010 Summer series. Winner of EWS Winter. 17.5 Blinky Winner of 2012/13/14 Rug Racers. 17.5 Blinky 2013 WLRC summer series. Newbury RCC GP 2014 17.5 Blinky 2015 3rd in 17.5 Rug Racers
TheCoolCanFanMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Team Losi JRXS Fast XXXS Australia For Sale/Trade 6 11-19-2007 03:34 PM
F-S Team losi JRXS as new mcskoda Australia For Sale/Trade 6 10-31-2006 02:15 AM
FS:Team Losi JRXS BiggAlz R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 21 03-25-2006 05:47 PM
Team Losi JRXS FS JRXSBear R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 01-19-2006 03:57 PM
Team Losi JRXS Jon Carlson R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 3 01-18-2006 08:28 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:24 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net