Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Planning on it, as long as I can get tires before then..

EricF

What is considered a small track or a big outdoor track???

indoor 45x95 big/med/small???

E

POOKYT

Large out door track I would say is like 60X100 and up. Usually, I run my monster stock around a 6.33 to 6.85 FDR. On the 19 turns I tend to run about 1 to 2 teeth higher than my stocks on the same track. Hope this is what you needed.

Brant

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

See the picture in this post and I will describe what parts are needed and what to do.

The parts required for each side are:

Front arm from JRX-S (P/N #LOSA9739) or XXX-S (P/N #A9739) - XXX-S arm is mo better
Zero degree front hub carrier (P/N #A9755)
Outer hinge pin for JRX-S (P/N #LOSA6081)
4-40 set screw (P/N #9847) - To hold hinge pin in place
Spindle Carrier Bushing (P/N #LOSA1223)
1/2" long x 4-40 cap or button head screw (I used cap head)

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

If you look at the picture of my car, you will note that I have only had to remove the short ball cups and threaded arm (the camber linkage) plus the ball stud at the top of the carrier. All you have to do is create a modified upper link and mount it..."Easy" as PookyT would say.

The only tools I needed to modify the front suspension arm and zero degree carrier were:
- Dremel tool with a disc cutter
- Flat fine file
- 1/16" drill bit (metric?)
- 4-40 hand tap (shown inserted in the cut and drilled outer portion of the arm)
- calipers

After a few zen-like thoughts from Dremel Master PookyT,

I cut off the inner portion of the arm with a Dremel cutting disc and filed the inner surface flat. Because the shock mounting hole remains on the leading side of the arm, you want to drill and tap for the turnbuckle in the graphite arm away from that area that is weakened by the existing hole. That way the two holes will not conflict and you will get a strong attachment point for the turnbuckle.

Measuring from the back of the arm, the center of the 1/16" hole you are going to drill should be located approximately .35" forward on that inside edge. Because you may have cut more or less material from the original JRX-S or XXXS arm, I cannot provide you with an exact measurement. However, the placement of the hole is fairly easy to "eyeball" when you hold it to your car.

Because I assume that you only have a right-hand 4-40 tap available, the threads you will tap in the arms will be right-handed too. And the tunebuckles will thread left-handed into the short ball cups.

What else do you need to know to complete this first phase?

I am going to go watch the Snowbirds for awhile now.

Next phase is modifying the zero degree hub carriers.

Bill

EricF

Yep that works... I mainly just wanted to know what's is considered to be a large vs small track. So 60x100 is that your opinion or is that universally accepted?

Thanks,
E

POOKYT

Small to me is more like 40X70. This is about the size of our carpet track. Our yearly 2 day "Beat the Heat" race this past year was held together with our nitro classes and we ran on a huge 75X130 layout and it was a blast! I ran mod and 19 turn and as I remember on 19 turn we were geared around 5.73 FDR. This track was HUGE! The smallest outdoor track I ran on this past year I still ran a 7.00. Good Luck on your gears!

Brant

POOKYT

Nice pics and description Bill!

Brant

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

What? No Snowbirds! Website issues...

Now focusing on modifying the zero degree front carrier piece.

Refer to the unmodified carrier in the picture and use your Dremel cutting disk to cut right down the middle of the "0" (numeral zero) to eliminate the upper portion of the carrier. You only will be using the lower portion of the carrier with the hinge pin holder and the hole for the spindle carrier bushing. To dress up what remains of the carrier, round off the inner end by radiusing around the hole for the spindle bushing leaving as much material as possible to support the bushing.

Phase two done!

Now, just assemble your parts per the complete camber link assembly shown in the right of my posted picture. The picture depicts the assembly for the left side of my car. Note that the set screw of the carrier points downward.

Remove the RH threaded ball cup from the turnbuckle of your existing camber link. Remember, the turnbuckle threads right-handed into the modified arm and left-handed into the ball cup. You have to shorten the LH threaded ball cup about .05-.07" to be able to set the camber properly.

I found that I could insert the second spindle bushing in the carrier's hole from either above or below with little difference. I decided on having it from below; but, others are placing it above. Place it as you find best for smoothness and insert the 1/2" x 4-40 screw (and thin washer) through both bushings and screw into the top of the carrier.

Phase three done!

Did I cover everything?

Back to the Snowbirds...I hope!

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Big tracks I consider a 100+ foot straight. I'd say your on a mid size track. Try 39 pinion.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

If these posts don't make sense to you, don't worry I won't be offended. Others might want to make a few edits to clarify my description. If so, have at it boys.

On option is to contact Master Dremeler PookyT for his price for a set of these suckers. Hey PookyT...Do I get a commission?

Good news is that you shouldn't need any spares for these camber links. It is the lower arm that fails in most crash scenarios.

Bill

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Just got a new digital camera, and just finished running a day with my new sedan, picture time

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hey Randy,

Have you tried the front camber link mod yet?

What setup is that? New arms?

See you at the Nationals kiddo.

Bill

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Took me longer to write these posts than to do the actual mods.

After I figured out that I already had the parts, it was a case of "Just do it!".

speedfreakUK

thanks for the help. I'll give it go sorting out the links this weekend