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Old 12-28-2005, 04:35 PM   #9811
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Does the piston even come close to hitting the bladder? In carpet racing, which is what I do, I cant imagine the shock moving more than 4 millimeters which is the ride height. You cut the shock end down so you can lower the car down after using the higher mounting position on the arm. The new arms are really awesome. i thought Chickys second setup was good until I used his third setup with the new arms. The car carries so much more corner speed.

On a different note, Why do most setup sheets show using just the pin drives instead of the BK bones. Kinwald said he used the bearings on the outdrives because it gives the car a fresh rebuild feel all the time. But there must be a reason why people dont use them.
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Old 12-28-2005, 05:02 PM   #9812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Well Iím not the originator of the question, but I am interested to know.

The "New Arms" come with instructions stating; to position the shock tower in the high position if using the new bottom shock position on the arm, and as a secondary option you can leave the shock tower in the standard position and cut the shock end (as we have all done to fit the BK brackets).

Which is better, follow the instruction or use the secondary option?

What are most using (from those that have the new arms)?

Are there any differences with the handling of the car in either setup (from those that have the new arms)?

AWWWWW C'Mon!!!! The high shock tower placement is for people who cannot measure 1/8th inch to cut off the shock end!! Forget the high tower placement as we need to keep CG as low as possible. Just my opinion!

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Old 12-28-2005, 06:01 PM   #9813
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Originally Posted by POOKYT
AWWWWW C'Mon!!!! The high shock tower placement is for people who cannot measure 1/8th inch to cut off the shock end!! Forget the high tower placement as we need to keep CG as low as possible. Just my opinion!

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Thanks Mate.......

Knew you would be lurking around somewhere.....lol
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Old 12-28-2005, 06:22 PM   #9814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Thanks Mate.......

Knew you would be lurking around somewhere.....lol
Sorry it took so long but I had to wade through all the talk about who had the shortest shaft!!!! LMAO Just kidding guys!

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Old 12-28-2005, 09:50 PM   #9815
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Are there any other online stores you can get the new Front and rear arms besides Losi Parts Warehouse?
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Old 12-28-2005, 10:03 PM   #9816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Forget the high tower placement as we need to keep CG as low as possible. Just my opinion!
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CG..and body height!!!

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Old 12-28-2005, 10:36 PM   #9817
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Chicky- you are no doubt the man, but I wanted to remind you of something just in case it migt help out a little...

You are correct in saying that shortening the shock end only changes the relationship of the spring to the shock; it does not change the length of the shock at all. However, the whole reason behind shortening the shock end is to allow for a lower ride height, and a lower ride height means the position of the piston is higher in the shock body.

Example: given car is at 5mm RH with collars adjusted all the way up. We cut approx .750mm off the shock end (TRF415- all you need is a pair of calipers and some 300grit sandpaper to get them perfect) which will give us approximately 1mm lower ride height. True we did not change the overall length of the shock, but now the piston will operate .750mm higher in the body. This means at full compression and full extension because the car will still roll the same amount, it's just sitting closer to the track.

If you are curious as to whether you are getting close to the bladder, just reassemble one shock without the oil next tme you have them apart and you'll be able to feel when the shaft touches the bladder. Measure the amount of shaft still showing and you will be able to get a real good idea when you put it all back together.

If the piston IS operating too high in the body, just take the same amount off of the shaft as you did the shock end- that will both lower the spring retainer and move the piston back down to it's normal operating position.

I'll stop blabbing now so you can get back to petting all your peeps Pauley- LMAO

Hope to see ya soon!
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Old 12-28-2005, 11:12 PM   #9818
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Thread snooping again I see! Your almost as bad as MDOC!! LOL

Kick sum butt in Nashville this weekend man! Well.......except EA ya know! Losi Rulz Bra!!!!

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Old 12-29-2005, 06:53 AM   #9819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMcClure
Does the piston even come close to hitting the bladder? In carpet racing, which is what I do, I cant imagine the shock moving more than 4 millimeters which is the ride height. You cut the shock end down so you can lower the car down after using the higher mounting position on the arm. The new arms are really awesome. i thought Chickys second setup was good until I used his third setup with the new arms. The car carries so much more corner speed.

On a different note, Why do most setup sheets show using just the pin drives instead of the BK bones. Kinwald said he used the bearings on the outdrives because it gives the car a fresh rebuild feel all the time. But there must be a reason why people dont use them.
Hey Jim,

It actually can come pretty close depending on your tire size and ride height. The shock does not move all that much but since we are using the Bk arms the shock is shortened up quite a bit. If you take your shock cap off and put an allen wrench on the bladder you can see the shock shaft will not go in all the way because it hits the bladder. It might be only about 1/16 but with the Bk arms we are really close to that area. I do not think it will hit but it is close.

Glad you liked the setup.

I use the bearings on the rear because it is easier to get them on. On the front you have to grind the pins slightly and I have been to lazy to do that but need to. That is why I don't run them on the front anyway. They will make your out drives last a LOT longer begore they get a notch in them. It is a very short time before those pins make a notch in the outdrives and it may effect your handling if there is. You can check it buy taking a cvd or lcd and twisting it as you put it into the outdrive. It will catch and be notchy in a certain area if the out drive is bad. Hope this helps.

Paul
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:01 AM   #9820
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3rd setup is there a link??
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:34 AM   #9821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wannabee
3rd setup is there a link??
Here is the third setup. I did not put it on a sheet yet but here are the changes. It was posted a few pages back.

Paul Ciccarello #2: http://www.parmapse.com/jrx2.jpg

On my #2 setup I did some more testing and like the #8 rear camber link better than the #7. It gave the car tons more on power steering. I also took out the antidive in the front and run the 6 deg blocks flat. I tried the BK arms in the front with 50 wt oil and #56 pistons and 25 lb springs. In the rear I ran BK arms also with 40 wt oil #55 pistons and 20lb rear springs. You might want to try any where from 25-30 front springs and 15-20 rear springs to see the changes and see what is better on your track. I was able to go faster with these changes and also run a bigger turning circle and the car still had more steering than before. Hope this helps.

Paul
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Old 12-29-2005, 03:24 PM   #9822
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Paul, what did the car do differently for you once you went to the BK arms? I have a set on my rubber car and need to put them on my brushless car for the Novak Race.
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Old 12-29-2005, 04:03 PM   #9823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCGaryK
Paul, what did the car do differently for you once you went to the BK arms? I have a set on my rubber car and need to put them on my brushless car for the Novak Race.
The car seemed a little more consistent but I think the major thing that helped is you have some more tuning options. Instead of going from 50 to 60 springs you have a bigger range to work with say 20-50. I was able to go from 25-30 springs and notice a slight difference that was all I needed at the time. Where going from 50-60 I noticed a huge difference, maybe too much to get the car just right.

Paul
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Old 12-29-2005, 08:16 PM   #9824
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Todd hodge you got pm
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Old 12-30-2005, 08:00 AM   #9825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03
The car seemed a little more consistent but I think the major thing that helped is you have some more tuning options. Instead of going from 50 to 60 springs you have a bigger range to work with say 20-50. I was able to go from 25-30 springs and notice a slight difference that was all I needed at the time. Where going from 50-60 I noticed a huge difference, maybe too much to get the car just right.

Paul
So it's basically changing the mechanical advantage of the shock?

Here's a question for everyone. My foam car feels like it turns it waaaay too hard mid corner, but it's good on initial turn in. I'm running Paul's #1 setup with a front bar and no rear bar. It doesn't sound like it's diffing out, but that could be it. I was contemplating changing the front inboard camber link, but that was before I got the BK arms. Suggestions?
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