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Old 12-28-2005, 06:41 AM   #9796
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Trimming the shock end makes the shock length shorter which inturn makes the height adjusters lower on the shock body(to maintain the same ride height b4 trimming) and also makes the piston sit lower inside the shock body...meaning it takes more travel now for the piston to hit the bladder
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Old 12-28-2005, 06:47 AM   #9797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
Trimming the shock end makes the shock length shorter which inturn makes the height adjusters lower on the shock body and also makes the piston sit lower inside the shock body...meaning it takes more travel now for the piston to hit the bladder
All trimming the shock end does is move the spring down more and allow more ride height adjustment for bigger tires. If you want to move the piston down you will need to cut the shaft. Think about it this way. If you trim the shock end down the spring moves down but your shock over all length is still the same if you leave the ride height the same. It still screws on the same amount. I would recommend cutting the shaft a little and collar. That way the piston moves down and you also have more room for ride height adjustment.

Paul
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:17 AM   #9798
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but what if the shock cup stays in the same spot where it was previously b4 cutting(basically the shock shaft goes into the shock end further but the end is cut to keep the shock cup at the same height)?
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:32 AM   #9799
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I am not sure I understood that one but if you cut the shock end and the screw it on to the shaft it screws on to the shaft that same amount no matter how long the end is. In that case the shock is the same over all length from end to end. You need to cut the shaft to move the piston out more.

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Old 12-28-2005, 07:37 AM   #9800
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if all you're trying to do is limit the uptravel so the piston doesn't hit the bladder, why not just use the up-travel limiter designed into the arms?
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:41 AM   #9801
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food for thought? maybe my head is out of it this morning
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Team Losi JRXS-shock-ends.jpg  
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Old 12-28-2005, 08:21 AM   #9802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
food for thought? maybe my head is out of it this morning
I see your picture but the only way the piston could be lowered is if you cut the shaft. all triming the shock end down does is move the spring collar down further.

Imagine your shock total length is one 1" then cut the shock end down .050 your shock is still 1" because the shock end cannot be screwed in further than before unless you shorten the shaft. All you are doing by cutting the end is moving the spring collar.

Hope this helps.

Paul
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Old 12-28-2005, 08:53 AM   #9803
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Good question Dirty....

We all know how the BK Brackets go on, but what about the "New Arms", does anyone know???

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375
Just want to know:

I have the new 'revised' arms, and there is 2 options to install them. Option 1 asks that the height of the shock tower be raised to the high position to compensate for the additional travel. By doing this (raising the shock tower) will it change the handling charactersitics of the car (also the camber link is moved down one hole to compensate for the shock tower height)?

Is it better to cut the shock end or put the shock tower in the high position and also does it make any difference to the overall handling of the car?

Much appreciated.

Leonard.
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Old 12-28-2005, 09:01 AM   #9804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Good question Dirty....

We all know how the BK Brackets go on, but what about the "New Arms", does anyone know???
What is it you are enquiring about exactly? The new arms have the hole built into them that we were before using the brackets for. It is nicer to have the hole already on the arm for now you may not have the rubbing issue you had in the front with the brackets.
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Old 12-28-2005, 09:34 AM   #9805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03
I see your picture but the only way the piston could be lowered is if you cut the shaft. all triming the shock end down does is move the spring collar down further.

Imagine your shock total length is one 1" then cut the shock end down .050 your shock is still 1" because the shock end cannot be screwed in further than before unless you shorten the shaft. All you are doing by cutting the end is moving the spring collar.

Hope this helps.

Paul
Actually R/C Anonymous is partly right, cutting the shock end equates to screwing the shaft more in the shock end. Thus not only will that indeed need adjusting of the shock collar position, but it will make the shaft sit lower. This is only true with regard of the Wheel's vertical position. Say at 5mm ride height; you will indeed have the piston sit lower. Same goes if you lift the car and let the suspension go to the droop stops, the piston will sit lower.

However, you are right too in saying it will not prevent the piston from hitting the bladder, since when the piston is pushed to the max, cutting the shock end or not won't change anything. BUT, it will change the wheel position where this will happen so it might not hit anymore whilst on the track.

Also, a big no go I see is simply that by doing that you will induce tweak in your car since there is no way you can cut all 4 of them exactly the same length.
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Old 12-28-2005, 10:09 AM   #9806
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Ok lets put it this way. If you screw on the shock end all the way on so it bottoms out and can not be tightened anymore then cut the shock end and screw it on all the way again the piston stays in the same exact spot just the spring collar is moved down further.

Cutting them all the same length does not matter as long as you use a tweek board to check it. If you trim them all different sizes you will have one shock collar down and one up .050 and still have the car tweaked correctly of you use a tweak board.

Paul
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Old 12-28-2005, 10:49 AM   #9807
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you're right i the shock end can not bescrewed in anymore then what it was b4 the shock end is cut...the way the manual shows is you leave a few threads showing and you can screw it in way further then that...so i guess we are both right
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Old 12-28-2005, 10:51 AM   #9808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
you're right i the shock end can not bescrewed in anymore then what it was b4 the shock end is cut...the way the manual shows is you leave a few threads showing and you can screw it in way further then that...so i guess we are both right
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Old 12-28-2005, 11:42 AM   #9809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicky03
Ok lets put it this way. If you screw on the shock end all the way on so it bottoms out and can not be tightened anymore then cut the shock end and screw it on all the way again the piston stays in the same exact spot just the spring collar is moved down further.

Cutting them all the same length does not matter as long as you use a tweek board to check it. If you trim them all different sizes you will have one shock collar down and one up .050 and still have the car tweaked correctly of you use a tweak board.

Paul
I'm saying that because I don't like using a tweak board. IMHO if you need to set shock collars differently then it means your car's weight balance is wrong, which shouldn't happen on a car like the JRXS. This is why I don't even own a tweak station, and I don't have problems with my car being tweaked. I still wouldn't cut the shock ends even considering the use of a tweak station.
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Old 12-28-2005, 03:40 PM   #9810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti35
What is it you are enquiring about exactly? The new arms have the hole built into them that we were before using the brackets for. It is nicer to have the hole already on the arm for now you may not have the rubbing issue you had in the front with the brackets.
Well Iím not the originator of the question, but I am interested to know.

The "New Arms" come with instructions stating; to position the shock tower in the high position if using the new bottom shock position on the arm, and as a secondary option you can leave the shock tower in the standard position and cut the shock end (as we have all done to fit the BK brackets).

Which is better, follow the instruction or use the secondary option?

What are most using (from those that have the new arms)?

Are there any differences with the handling of the car in either setup (from those that have the new arms)?
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