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Old 11-27-2005, 12:00 AM   #9226
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SoCal's traction was really weird today, it actually went down as the night wore on, seems like temps are finally dropping enough to effect the traction a lot. Really the only changes I made were I took out the 1 ways (front and center) and replaced them with a locked pulley and spool, added .030 pro-squat, and the car was pretty drivable, I'll figure out how to make it more dialed as the weeks wear on. I know a lot of SoCal guys visit this thread lookin for info so hopefully this will be helpful to you guys.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:20 AM   #9227
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Randy,
Thanks for the information, please tell us what you try and if it helps.
Thanks, Mike Molina
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:39 AM   #9228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
camber link mod the front
what do i need for this upgrade

i to lazy to go back through the pages (i`m english you know)
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:37 AM   #9229
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Originally Posted by King of B Main
Randy,
Thanks for the information, please tell us what you try and if it helps.
Thanks, Mike Molina
I'm always trying new stuff out, I'll land on a couple base setups for tight or open tracks soon and post them here.
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Old 11-27-2005, 08:14 AM   #9230
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Is there an interest for 2.5mm and 3.0mm chassis for the JRX-S?

What about 2.0mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm top decks?

Colors would be available in Silver and Black all quasi woven CF.

Let me know what ya'll think?
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Old 11-27-2005, 09:31 AM   #9231
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How about 3.5mm chassis but have the sections where the bulk heads, suspension arms, servo, posts etc milled out to stock thickness. providing a ridge around the endge of the car as well as sections in the center. My main point is the weak spot from right after the front bumper all the way to the rear bulk head screw and pivot blocks. That hollow space has no support and does flex/crack.

Winky was having problems cracking in that area he has purchased 5 chassis already i have made a thicker chassis using a different epoxy and a 45 deg wet lay which deemed too expensive. only had 2 made at $120 a pop

But if you can make one that specifically thickens that front part of the chassis that would be ideal.
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:44 AM   #9232
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don't crash?
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:57 AM   #9233
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with all the sucess the team drivers are having with the rear motor cars, it seems they would be gearing up to sell a conversion kit, if so would anyone still want to buy aftermarket front motor chassis kits? Its a good idea, but from a marketing standpoint Im not sure its the right time for it....

in about two more weeks tho......
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:10 AM   #9234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
what do i need for this upgrade

i to lazy to go back through the pages (i`m english you know)
Ditto, I don't actually recall having seen it. Cheers for the help guys, I simply put some cs27s on and the problem was solved (had to remove the swaybar to regain some steering though.)
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:26 AM   #9235
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Is there a part number for the new BK arms yet??
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:32 PM   #9236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5thscaleracer
How about 3.5mm chassis but have the sections where the bulk heads, suspension arms, servo, posts etc milled out to stock thickness. providing a ridge around the endge of the car as well as sections in the center. My main point is the weak spot from right after the front bumper all the way to the rear bulk head screw and pivot blocks. That hollow space has no support and does flex/crack.

Winky was having problems cracking in that area he has purchased 5 chassis already i have made a thicker chassis using a different epoxy and a 45 deg wet lay which deemed too expensive. only had 2 made at $120 a pop

But if you can make one that specifically thickens that front part of the chassis that would be ideal.
I have yet to break a stock chassis, and that's running 3-4 times a week at SoCal, I didn't know anyone was having a problem with that. I think the aftermarket chassis' would be nice as a tuning aid, but it really might be better to wait and see what happens with the rear motor car before releasing a bunch of parts for the mid motor car.
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:34 PM   #9237
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Originally Posted by mudpuppy
Is there a part number for the new BK arms yet??
Yes there is, I dont recall where I have seen it though. I believe it's the same part # as the origional arms but with an A at the end... someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:43 PM   #9238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Yes there is, I dont recall where I have seen it though. I believe it's the same part # as the origional arms but with an A at the end... someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Although Todd Hodge earlier posted the part numbers as being LOSA9739A and LOSA9861A, it looks like Stormer's numbering for the front and rear arms will be LOS9739A and LOS9861A without the first "A" after the "LOS".
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Old 11-27-2005, 04:23 PM   #9239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I have yet to break a stock chassis, and that's running 3-4 times a week at SoCal, I didn't know anyone was having a problem with that. I think the aftermarket chassis' would be nice as a tuning aid, but it really might be better to wait and see what happens with the rear motor car before releasing a bunch of parts for the mid motor car.
i never broke one either and ive had mine on the track quite a bit...in fact i never even broken a part on the car yet...only 2 servo related problems for me
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Old 11-27-2005, 08:11 PM   #9240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I have yet to break a stock chassis, and that's running 3-4 times a week at SoCal, I didn't know anyone was having a problem with that. I think the aftermarket chassis' would be nice as a tuning aid, but it really might be better to wait and see what happens with the rear motor car before releasing a bunch of parts for the mid motor car.
I am sure you know or at least heard winky at Socal we are there every Tuesday, Thrusday and Saturday. He has 4 chassis cracked in the same position... i have one that was fractured on the same part but that was not hitting any thing it was going up and down the bank form infiled to back end. i think it has more to the chassi flexing using the suspension up travel limiter screws, after banging on against the chassis it could have caused it to fracture.

The only thing i can say is it is fractured at the point where it looks to me they bonded another sheet of graphite to make another chassis. Like a left over from a sheet but it is enough for 3/4 of a chasss so if they mold the rest of the 1/4 they can cut and make a full chassis.

The reason i am saying it's like 2 pc's of Graphite put together is because if you flip the car over and look at the graphite weave, every thing is consistent utnill you ge to the part that looks to be added. There is a very consistent line as if you drew a line across one side and it sticks out. The black part and the silver releftive part does not mate up evenly it actually conflicts making a line. Next time i see you at socal and if i remember i will show you this chassi with the line and the 4 that has cracks in the same part.

I think neuman saw them all
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