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Old 10-30-2005, 06:04 AM   #8686
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Hello everyone,

Sorry for the downtime on the jrXs site. Please adjust all of your bookmarks to JRXS.COM and not JRXS.net. Again sorry for this issue.
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Old 10-30-2005, 07:27 AM   #8687
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Thanks Gearhead!

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Old 10-30-2005, 07:40 AM   #8688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
WYD, try the paul C setup as a good starting place for carpet. I have only made minor chages to the setup. I haven't made it up mimis yet, but I think it will work pretty good there. I run at drcw which is pretty similar. The setup worsk very well here. where are you running asphalt, colisieum? Later
If I run carpet I will try that setup. I ran at RCO last night but I would like to run at Frederick as well sometime soon if I can get a buch of buddies to go down. I think for Frederick I just have to move my rear camber linkback in on the tower and the rear hub to loosen the car up some and maybe go to 1 degree rear toe in and it should be pretty close to dialed. Traction is so high at Frederick vs RCO which is cold and loose.
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Old 10-30-2005, 03:12 PM   #8689
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Guys thanks for the help with the car thus far. The first weekend back was very successful with track records being owned. Couldn't have got it dialed in so quickly without the share of knowledge on this board.

I used the Paul C setup with some changes. I'll post the changes later.
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:49 PM   #8690
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that is great to hear Weliin. post up your last race sheet. Would be cool to see that.

No problem pooky.......
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Old 10-30-2005, 06:44 PM   #8691
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hey guys, can someone give me some advice on how to use the corrally connectors on this car. i was gonna hard wire and i am lil shaky for all that. tried just soldering the connector to a bar and thats not working, trying scuffing the connector and then soldering... i know sometimes i can be lacking some common sense, but this i can not figure out.. thanks..
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Old 10-30-2005, 07:39 PM   #8692
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One good way is to put bars on the terminal cells at like a 45* angle, so they will allow you to nestle the connector tube between the cells. As far as having trouble soldering, it helps to have a really hot iron. I use a 60 watt Hakko, and I had no problems. A forceps also helps you hold and place them more precisely.
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Old 10-30-2005, 07:43 PM   #8693
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i am using a hako, normally never in my life had a problem soldering. i am gonna try and buy new tubes, see if that was the problem.
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Old 10-30-2005, 07:58 PM   #8694
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don't forget the flux! the most overlooked element to a good solder joint.
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Old 10-30-2005, 08:02 PM   #8695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk
One good way is to put bars on the terminal cells at like a 45* angle, so they will allow you to nestle the connector tube between the cells. As far as having trouble soldering, it helps to have a really hot iron. I use a 60 watt Hakko, and I had no problems. A forceps also helps you hold and place them more precisely.
I agree. I use a needle nose pliers to hold the tube, but a forceps would also work well.

One thing that makes it easier is bend the battery bar before you connect the Corally tube. Once bent, hold the bar with a pliers or a vise so that the part of the bar on which you want the Corally tube is horizontal. Melt a bunch of solder onto that horizontal part of the bar, then lay the tube on top of the molten solder. Once it cools, you can also heat one side at a time and fill in any gaps in the solder between the bar and the tube.

It took me several tries to get a good connection that didn't snap off every time I inserted or removed a plug. Now, with practice, it is pretty easy, so just keep practicing and you will get it.

Ira
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Old 10-30-2005, 08:24 PM   #8696
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Default Handling help

I built my JRXS about 5 weeks ago. Since then, I have been practicing on a local tennis court and just ran it at one of the last local asphalt races for the season. In general, I am very pleased with the car. For me, it handles much better than and is far more responsive than the Team TC4 that I had previously.

I get very good turn in and great grip through the middle and end of turns. I find that high speed turn in works particularly well if I let off the throttle just a little as I initiate the turn, which makes sense.

Here is my problem. When going through anything more than a small turn, particularly any turn of 90* or more, I have a problem at the end of the turn when I try to accelerate out of the turn. If the front wheels are still turned rather than straight when I apply throttle, the car oversteers and seems to "dig in" so that even after the wheels are straight, the car continues to turn. The effect varies. In the worst case, the car will just do donuts until I bring it almost to a stop. Even the mild version of this effect can cause the car to continue to turn 45* or more beyond when I turn the wheels straight.

As you can imagine, this makes it very tough to turn quick laps since I have to wait longer than normal to accelerate out of turns or risk a spin. This happens both on the tennis courts and on a fully prepared parking lot track. I have used both RP 22 and RP 30 wheels/tires depending on temperature. I also used the Losi supplied wheels with a set of tires rated at 36. Regardless of which tires I use, the results are the same.

I hope to run the Numan set up some day, but I have not gotten the BK brackets. Rather, I have (perhaps foolishly) been waiting for the new arms.

My setup is as follows:

* Stock springs
* Stock shock positions
* Stock camber and toe
* Stock steering link and camber link positions
* Stock 40 wt shock oil
* Center spool
* 41 tooth pulley in front
* Front roll center high with 1 thick shim under each piviot block/arm
* Front diff high
* Rear roll center low, no shims
* Rear diff low

I run a Monster Pro stock motor.

TIA for any and all help and advice.

Ira
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Old 10-30-2005, 08:34 PM   #8697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
I built my JRXS about 5 weeks ago. Since then, I have been practicing on a local tennis court and just ran it at one of the last local asphalt races for the season. In general, I am very pleased with the car. For me, it handles much better than and is far more responsive than the Team TC4 that I had previously.

I get very good turn in and great grip through the middle and end of turns. I find that high speed turn in works particularly well if I let off the throttle just a little as I initiate the turn, which makes sense.

Here is my problem. When going through anything more than a small turn, particularly any turn of 90* or more, I have a problem at the end of the turn when I try to accelerate out of the turn. If the front wheels are still turned rather than straight when I apply throttle, the car oversteers and seems to "dig in" so that even after the wheels are straight, the car continues to turn. The effect varies. In the worst case, the car will just do donuts until I bring it almost to a stop. Even the mild version of this effect can cause the car to continue to turn 45* or more beyond when I turn the wheels straight.

As you can imagine, this makes it very tough to turn quick laps since I have to wait longer than normal to accelerate out of turns or risk a spin. This happens both on the tennis courts and on a fully prepared parking lot track. I have used both RP 22 and RP 30 wheels/tires depending on temperature. I also used the Losi supplied wheels with a set of tires rated at 36. Regardless of which tires I use, the results are the same.

I hope to run the Numan set up some day, but I have not gotten the BK brackets. Rather, I have (perhaps foolishly) been waiting for the new arms.

My setup is as follows:

* Stock springs
* Stock shock positions
* Stock camber and toe
* Stock steering link and camber link positions
* Stock 40 wt shock oil
* Center spool
* 41 tooth pulley in front
* Front roll center high with 1 thick shim under each piviot block/arm
* Front diff high
* Rear roll center low, no shims
* Rear diff low

I run a Monster Pro stock motor.

TIA for any and all help and advice.

Ira

Raise the rear roll cneter 1 shim and see what happens. Ira you will be knocked out if you get some shock brackets and put the Numan set-up on the car. Once the rear end steps out like you described, it seems almost impossible to recover it. I felt the same on my car in stock set-up. The Numan set-up takes that away without giving up any steering or rear traction.

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Old 10-30-2005, 09:10 PM   #8698
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When using PK or TH brackets do you have to cut the shock eyelet any since the shock sits up higher? On the Numan setup what does it mean by 2 white o-rings above the bladder? Why not red? What does this do? Also, why use AE hexes on the wheels just in the front?
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:21 PM   #8699
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pooky didnt say anything, but his car was fast and smooth today with the new upper links......
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:44 PM   #8700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdoc
pooky didnt say anything, but his car was fast and smooth today with the new upper links......
I almost forgot about the camber mod! LOL!!

Yea I ran my car with the camber mod today. Very interesting. The car picked up some steering with the modify'd camber links. So much so I had to tune in some traction for the rear. With the camber mod today my car fetl the best it has yet to date.

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